harleyjj 2 #1 Posted October 23, 2010 I purchased a C-111 8 speed this morning! It is in need of some love but think it will suit my needs just fine. I believe it has a newer replacement Briggs and Stratton engine that seems to run very well. There is some pretty bad rot in the area below the battery and I would like to replace that part eventually. It has new agricultural tires in the back and includes a plow but the blade is pretty rough. there is no drive belt on it right now but the trans seems to go through all the gears fine. some one has hacked up the harness and bypassed the safety switches, and the parking brake won't engage. It came with a shop manual also! I have some questions that hopefully someone on here can help me out with. 1 where is the model number and serial number located on one of these? 2 What is the part number for the transmission drive belt? 3 what type and how much oil in the trans? 4 what type and how much oil in the engine? 5 how is the drive belt routed? 6 does anyone make replacement wiring harnesses? thanks for your help will post pics when I pick up the tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Polaris2007 4 #2 Posted October 23, 2010 Welcome to the disease my friend. You have come to the right place! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-Series14 15 #3 Posted October 23, 2010 1. Under the steering wheel on the flat panel. VIN is going to be 91-11B801, it is a 1979. 2. 7473, found this on sepw.com using the VIN above... 3. 1-1/2 quarts API Service SG, SH, SJ Oil 4. 2 quarts SAE 90-140 5. Hard to describe in words, around the crankshaft pulley, over top of the clutch pulley, around tranny pulley, back to engine. Pretty easy...Maybe someone will have a pic! 6. Not that I know of... I am now beat, battling a cold and stuck on the couch...must go back to couch... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coadster32 793 #5 Posted October 24, 2010 :thumbs: Glad you found us. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #6 Posted October 24, 2010 I think C-Series has the answers to questions 3 & 4 backwards! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #7 Posted October 24, 2010 I think C-Series has the answers to questions 3 & 4 backwards! Yup, they are backwards, but he's got a legitimate excuse being under the weather. Now me....I'd have screwed it up just 'cuz I'm old, cranky and it's Saturday night! Duff :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-Series14 15 #8 Posted October 24, 2010 Yea, they are backwards! Thanks Duff, yes...I am ill...dang cold! :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harleyjj 2 #9 Posted October 24, 2010 I can't wait till tomorrow morning to go pick her up! are there replacement parts available for the upright piece that is below the battery? can someone clarify where below the steering wheel I may find the vin I can't seem to locate it. are engine mounts readily available? and are they hard to replace? am I nuts for buying one with an incorrect however excellent running engine? I think I got a smoking deal but I'm really not sure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-Series14 15 #11 Posted October 24, 2010 The ID plate SHOULD be on the flat panel right below the dash. It is the flat panel right in front of the shifter panel.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harleyjj 2 #12 Posted October 24, 2010 well I picked her up this morning! now I cant wait to get my hands greasy! as a bonus it came with all of the original purchase paperwork, owners manual, service manual, paperwork on the replacement engine, maintainance reciepts etc. I've got the battery charging now while I'm at work we shall see what happens. I'm off tomorrow so I will try and get a belt and get her driveable. 1thing I noticed is the right rear wheel is out further on the axel than the left side any ideas??? it looks as though the trans has been rebuilt at some point also. how can I upload a pic? I tried using the attach file button at the bottom of the screen and it said unable to upload. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daddy Don 893 #13 Posted October 24, 2010 I have a c111 that had a briggs 11hp engine on it. What is the hp of the one you have. I may have a wiring harnes that will work for you. I replaced my engine with a 14 hp kohler. I had to replace the wiring on it and the ing switch. I will sent it to you if I can remember where I put it. See my c111 in the picture of this forum. You will like it. Let me know if you want the wiring harg and the ing switch. No charge* Just the cost of freight. Thanks :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harleyjj 2 #14 Posted October 24, 2010 Don, It would be great to have an extra harness! let me know if you locate it at some point and I will gladly pay freight. I am not sure if it is a correct replacement engine or not but I have the reciept and paperwork from when the local dealer installed it back in 1986. I can not shut the tractor off from the ign switch, there is a small knob on top of the engine that kills the spark.and it has a metal fuel tank bolted to the engine rather than using the stock tank. I have it up and running good now and plan on a thorough cleaning and fluid change along with a drive belt tomorrow and we shall see if she drives ok. thank youall who have helped answer my silly newbie questions thus far! P.S. can someone help me post pics? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daddy Don 893 #15 Posted October 25, 2010 Ok I will look for it tomorrow and send it to you I will let you know. Does not sound like it is a true replacement engine. That is the c111 that I have on my page. I have a GT1100 work horse with the briggs and it does a great job also. I use it to plow snow with in the winter. They are also good tractors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harleyjj 2 #16 Posted October 26, 2010 well I decided to give the tractor a once over last night. found out the trans was almost dry but that was an easy fix! put a new drive belt on it and off I went for a test drive, so far so good. I notice when I push the clutch all the way in the tractor abruptly like the rear wheels lock up, is this normal? then I decided to change the engine oil, probably the first time this has been done in a long time! 1.4 qts of 10/30 and we are ready to go. Now I get to thinking that maybee a shot of seafoam in the fuel tank just to clean things out a bit would be a great idea, and this is where the feces hit the fan. now it will only run at 3/4 choke, even after running for almost 10min. any ideas???? P.S. now I really want an RJ to restore for my son! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whfan74 2,015 #17 Posted October 26, 2010 The idea on the 3/4 choke is that the Sea Foam did it's job. I am guessing you probably had enough crud in there to plug up the carb a little. There is an obstruction preventing it to get the right amount of gas........thus the choke needing pulled out. A good carb cleaning and I am almost willing to bet you will be back up and running in no time! :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harleyjj 2 #18 Posted October 26, 2010 should I invest in a carb rebuild kit prior to attemting the overhaul? or should I just tear it apart and see what happens? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
puddlejumper 67 #19 Posted October 26, 2010 I know theres going to be some disagreement here. But just pull of sediment bowl and spray carb cleaner through the orifices you can get to with carb on tractor. work the float by hand and make sure you have good fuel flow through the float valae and see what happens. If that doesnt work THEN spend your money, PS check for a clogged inline fuel filter what the sea foam broke loose could or should have lodged there if equipped and if it doesnt have one I would probably invest in one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dryrun 0 #20 Posted October 26, 2010 HARLEY, Im with PUDDLEJUMPER, pull the bowl. Remove float hinge pin and valve,and if you have carb cleaner with flexible spout, spray up into seat. Also spray into main jet in bottom and clean out bowl. While you have float removed see if you are getting fuel to carb. Just my opinion, and you know how opinions are. GEORGE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harleyjj 2 #21 Posted October 26, 2010 Does any one know the correct procedure for removing the bowl on an 11hp briggs? just dont want to make matters worse by using the trial and error method! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dryrun 0 #22 Posted October 26, 2010 HARLEY, I had a bad case of foot in mouth trouble, I was thinking of another engine entirely. Iguess its that old age senile thing. Better check the manual for sure. SORRY GEORGE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harleyjj 2 #23 Posted October 26, 2010 the owners manual for the engine has nothing about carburaetor disassembly. I'm sure its just some crud in the carb but I need to know the proper float bowl removal procedure so I dont screw it up worse! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daddy Don 893 #24 Posted October 26, 2010 I haven't forgot about the wire and ing switch. Haven't found them yet. I will let you know when I do. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harleyjj 2 #25 Posted October 27, 2010 well i pulled the main needle out shot some carb cleaner through the jet and put her all back together and all seems to run well for now! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites