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mattd860

Electrolysis Method to Remove Rust & Paint??

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mattd860

I am about to tear down the 1960 Suburban 550 for restoration. I know there a process where you did metal parts into a 55gal drum of acid and then dip leads from a battery into the acid. What is this method called? Hot tank? E-Tank? Something else?

I also need to know the chemicals necessary to strip paint and rust down to bear metal. I have the large 55gal drum and battery, but no chemicals.

I think many here can benefit from hearing all your ingredients and methods.

Thanks!

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hcminis

Think it is called electrolysis

one version

another version

Haven't ever tried it but really want to. Have access to several plastic 55 and 30 gallon drums

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Trouty56

Do a search for electrolysis and you will get some info.

Oops...too late.

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mattd860

Thanks for the links!!! I changed the title of this thread to electrolysis, not hot tank. Thanks again!!

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hcminis

No problem. Glad to help. Take pictures and let us know how it turns out.

Got to get a few more plastic drums from my Uncle and try the electrolysis. Drums are cheap so if anyone near Indy needs a couple let me know.

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mattd860

DJ - I have a 55gal tank already. But you are welcome to drive over to Connecticut and give me a few more :)

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hcminis

HA!...NOT gonna happen!...LOL

Good luck..and don't forget pictures.

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fireman

Just some tips:

Don't use a metal drum or tank. It will become your sacrificial anode, deteriorate and cause a leak.

For most parts use a smaller tank than 55 gallons. The more water there is, the more amperage you need for it to work properly.

Go to the Depot and buy a cheap 20 or 30 gallon plastic garbage can.

Do not put any stainless or chrome in the tank. It creates a poisonous gas!

If you are going to use a battery charger it has to be of the manual type. The automatic ones won't work. Find a nice cheap old one at a tag sale or off of craig's list.

There are a bunch of threads on here about the topic.

The search feature at the top of the main page is your friend!

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linen beige

For most parts use a smaller tank than 55 gallons. The more water there is, the more amperage you need for it to work properly.

Almost perfect advice. There is one misconception though.

It is NOT the amount of water in the tank that affects how much amperage is needed. it is the distance between the part being cleaned and the sacrificial electrode. In other words, out fit your tank with sacrificial electrodes that can be moved inward to get them closer to smaller parts and you can clean parts in an old swimming pool if need be.

At least one of your points very much bears repeating.

DO NOT use stainless or chrome plated metal in this process. The compounds generated are extremely dangerous!

You also don't want to let any copper wire or galvanized metal get into your solution. It generates a thick sludge.

Read through some of the threads on here AND Google the process and read up on it.

Then dive in and try it out.

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CasualObserver

Read through some of the threads on here AND Google the process and read up on it.

Search results for electroysis It's been discussed just a couple times. :USA: There are a LOT of good posts here about electrolysis, and lots of pictures and discussions about what to use, what works, and examples of results... please check out some of the older posts... if you find any you like...add a new reply to bring any of them back to the top so you don't lose them! :)

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mattd860

Will this process work with removing carbon and dirt from a cylinder head too? Even an aluminum cylinder head?

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Don1977

Will this process work with removing carbon and dirt from a cylinder head too? Even an aluminum cylinder head?

It only works with steel and cast iron. Don't put alum. in unless you don't want to see it again.

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linen beige

Aluminum CAN be cleaned through electrolysis, BUT, you can only leave it in the solution a short while before it starts to eat away at the aluminum. The bottom line, there are MUCH better and safer ways to clean carbon from aluminum heads.

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