Daddy Don 893 #1 Posted October 1, 2010 Can someone give me an ideal on what might have happened. While tilling the tines quit turning while the PTO was ingaged. The belt did not break. The pully was still turning but the tines quit. How do I get the tine shaft off of the housing. I know that something inside the housing had to give away. Thanks for any help. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HankB 16 #2 Posted October 2, 2010 I know that something inside the housing had to give away. There's a chain inside the housing. That probably broke. It's a standard chain so you can probably get some at a well stocked hardware store or tractor supply store. I think you need to start taking it apart to the point where you can split the case. I've not done so but someone who has can provide further advice. Hopefully bearings, sprockets and gears will be in good shape and chain is all you'll need. -hank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bk-scouter 93 #3 Posted October 2, 2010 BEFORE you start tearing apart the tiller, have you checked to see if the large pulley is turning the input shaft it's mounted on? Perhaps maybe the set screw may have loosen and/or the shear key is worn or missing ? Those chains are pretty beefy. Someone mentioned sometime ago when I tore mine apart last spring they might be size #50 links... -BK Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daddy Don 893 #4 Posted October 2, 2010 Thanks I will check and see if the set screw came loose. Thanks for the information. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daddy Don 893 #5 Posted October 4, 2010 Looks like I will have to tear it down. The chain must have broke. It was not the pully. Thanks for the help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bk-scouter 93 #6 Posted October 4, 2010 It'll be a fairly simple job. If it's your first tiller 'tear a part' (like it was for me) just take your time, keep a parts illustration nearby, take digital pics during disassembly incase you need to refer to them during re-assembly use emery cloth on the tine shaft before sliding (or gentle hammering and a block of wood) the case halves apart, AND keep track of the shims on the gear shafts. Let us know how you come out. -BK Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daddy Don 893 #7 Posted October 4, 2010 Thanks for the information. Will do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tgranthamfd 28 #8 Posted October 5, 2010 Don, that is a standard #50 or #60 link chain, read it somewhere but don't remember. One of the moderator, on here, had a pic of theirs and they have welded a big nut to the outside tines, said he ran a long bolt in to push the tines off of the shaft rather than pulling them off, said it ran more of a risk breaking something when pulling but not while pushing them off. He also said that he ran a short bolt in the tube during regular operation to keep out the dirt and crud. If this is not making any sense I will try to find the link for you. P.S. I am sure a lot of the brands of roller chain are good, but if you can find some Diamond brand it is very good, we have miles and miles of it on the conveyor systems at work ( Distribution Center ). We use that brand of chain and the master links, as well. Might cost a little more but we have had some of it on for 10 + years and it is still within specifications. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tgranthamfd 28 #9 Posted October 5, 2010 Hey Don, I went ahead and found the link for ya, look at kpinnc's reply down towards the bottom. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=9671 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HankB 16 #10 Posted October 5, 2010 Hey Don, I went ahead and found the link for ya, look at kpinnc's reply down towards the bottom. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=9671 That thread lists #60 roller chain which I find at McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) on both regular and heavy. They describe heavy as "Heavy Chain This chain has thicker side plates, which provide a higher load capacity than standard chain." It's not all that much more and if there is clearance for the thicker plates, I think I'd be inclined to use that. That thread also says most of the links were cracked. Maybe it would be a good idea to overhaul my tiller. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daddy Don 893 #11 Posted October 6, 2010 Thanks guys for the info. My chain was broke on one link. I am going to go ahead and replace all of the needle bearings and seals while I have it apart. I have a buddy with a good machine shop and he was able to get the tines off and break the case apart. All of the gears were in great shape. I will look for both of the chains that you guys told me about. Will let you know how it turns out. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tgranthamfd 28 #12 Posted October 7, 2010 Heavy sounds like the way to go, if it will clear. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daddy Don 893 #13 Posted October 28, 2010 Got the tiller opened up and the chain was broke. I replaced the chain and all of the bearings, seals, chain and gaskets. All of the gears were in great shape. Had to do some work on the tines and build one that was broke off. I have a total of 62.00 dollars for the bearings and seals and 30.00 for the chain. Now all I have to do is get it painted and put back together. Thanks to everyone for the information on this fix. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
