stevasaurus 22,273 #26 Posted October 1, 2010 Bevan...you said you changed the oil...how was the old oil that you took out??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B-8074 19 #27 Posted October 1, 2010 It might be hard to see the "S". I took my shroud off and painted the "S" and "T" with a yellow paint stick. But any bright color would work. Yellow was all I could find and my wife wouldn't let me use her nail polish. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yokomist 0 #28 Posted October 1, 2010 Steve the oil was pretty dark but it was clean in terms of sludge and debris. B-8074, will there be a bolt I need to remove to see this hole? Thanks Bevan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimD 3,345 #29 Posted October 1, 2010 Bevin, you mentioned earlier that you changed the coil and condenser, make sure they are bolted down and grounded properly. I once had a loose condenser cause this problem on my C85. When I found that it was loose and causing intermittent spark, tightening it up cured it. Just a thought. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yokomist 0 #30 Posted October 1, 2010 Jim thats an interesting point... The condenser and coil that I borrowed off my k301 (now back on that engine) had the condenser on the oppersite side of the coil... It kinda threw me off so I made sure the wiring matched the service manual. I will go out now and check that the connections are tight. Thanks, Bevan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B-8074 19 #31 Posted October 1, 2010 No bolt but there might be a plug. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim_M 178 #32 Posted October 1, 2010 Float level set right? You mentioned the plug was dry, that would mean it's not getting gas. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pumper.atv 26 #33 Posted October 1, 2010 Could be a sticky valve :USA: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yokomist 0 #34 Posted October 1, 2010 Float level was set right, it was leveled and then set to 1 3/4 IIRC. Then new float pin etc. Moved freely and nicely when installed. How would I test if thats the culprit? there was no result with carb cleaner down the spark plug hole. I wouldnt say the plug was dry, it was damp, I just wasnt sure how wet it should be? Sorry Thanks Bevan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pumper.atv 26 #35 Posted October 1, 2010 Hows the battery, make sure that it is fully charged too. Weak or weakining batteries may cause your starting trouble. :USA: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,273 #36 Posted October 1, 2010 About the float...when you hold the carburetor up and the up and down measurements are correct, you should be able to see the needle valve move up and down as you move the float. If that needle valve is sticking you could not be getting any gas through the carb. I am really leaning toward the condenser and grounding at this point. I like what Jimd said. Your other horse that you have exchanged parts with runs Ok right??? Are you ready for a lawn chair and that foster's yet??? :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yokomist 0 #37 Posted October 1, 2010 I am jumping from the car at the moment so the battery should be good and strong. The other tractor was running. It was disassembled a couple of months back for restoration. The engine was running at that stage. I will try and swap out the condenser if this timing thing wont work. I just went ahead and took the shroud off as I couldnt find the peep hole. Now I just need to find these timing marks Thanks! Bevan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,273 #38 Posted October 1, 2010 Bevan...there is no reason for the timing to be bad...checking it is a good thing though. One less thing to look for. Kohlers are not usually like this...you clean them up a little and they start, after years of sitting outside and growing into trees. What is the other engine you have...in case we want to try to switch them??? I do not mind telling you that at this point, I am stumped. The valve thing that TT talked about may be what is wrong...but don't tear the engine apart just yet. Maybe spray some WD-40 down the plug hole to lube the rings and let it set for a day or so. Crank it once in a while by hand if you want. We will get there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yokomist 0 #39 Posted October 1, 2010 Haha Steve, your timing is great! I just ruled out the timing, it was a great learning experiance. At least I will know what I am doing next time! I will try and switch the condenser next, apart from that Hopefully someone will know! I will keep working at it, somethings gotta give. Thanks Mate Bevan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MaineDad 85 #40 Posted October 1, 2010 Also make sure your grounding points in the igntion system is good. Take some sand paper and clean the metal where the battery (negative) is grounded. Also make sure where the condender is grounded is clean too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,273 #41 Posted October 1, 2010 At this point...I really suggest a lawn chair and a Foster's...let some of the members read this thread and see what they have to say. Somebody has to get what is going on. I will be asking the people at Scott's tomorow....we get there. Like a lot of things...you rule some stuff out and sooner or later it comes down to only one thing. I just love logic. The world according to Stevasaurus. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 39,134 #42 Posted October 1, 2010 I've never heard of an engine running on carb cleaner. Every time I've sprayed carb cleaner it would bog an engine down or flood an engine. Now starting fluid is another matter. I've run an engine long enough with it to clear out a gunky bowl. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yokomist 0 #43 Posted October 1, 2010 All I know is its backfiring like a mother... out the exhaust not the carb. It blew the flapper off twice and I can hear any more lol Well I better make dinner for the troops here, hopefully someone knows the deal. Everyone enjoy your weekend all the same, have fun on your adventure Steve! Bevan :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yokomist 0 #44 Posted October 1, 2010 Oh and the other engine is a k301 and I have another parts k301 and then a briggs 8hp on the 800 special. Bevan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yokomist 0 #45 Posted October 2, 2010 Alright, I have decided it's a stuck valve Is the best thing to do next just to crack her open and see what I am up against? Any last ideas before I get in over my head? (again ) It's all an education! Bevan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,129 #46 Posted October 2, 2010 Removing the cylinder head will allow you to make an accurate diagnosis. Just remember to take your time removing the head bolts ~ especially the two in the "corner" above the exhaust port. Just a little (and perhaps too late) reminder......... a squirt or two of oil through the spark plug hole when attempting to start an engine that's been sitting for a while is mandatory. Not only will it lube the dry cylinder wall/piston rings so the bore doesn't get scratched, but it will also help "seal" the rings to increase compression. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yokomist 0 #47 Posted October 2, 2010 This thread has moved to the Engine section now that a stuck valve has been confirmed as the problem. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...ST&f=61&t=21753 Bevan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites