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mattd860

12hp K301s Rebuild

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mattd860

Yesterday I started to tear down the K301 so i can rebuild it as a result of the noise heard in this thread - http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...ST&f=61&t=20493

When I removed the carb, I noticed there was lots of oil in it and oil in the carb bowl. I also noticed oil behind the fuel pump so I seems like oil is getting sucked into the fuel pump and then pushed up into the carb?????

Also - in the second picture below - see the wire going nowhere coming from the flywheel sensor? Where is this wire supposed to go??

Oil coming out of this hole and all inside the fuel pump....

09221021011.jpg

Wire supposed to go where????

09221021021.jpg

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wheelhorse656

the gasket that gose betwen the two parts of the fuel pump is probly bad and letting oil get inside it. i do not think you can get a knew gasket anymore for those fuel pump but just c if you can get a metal cover to put over it the the hole in the block if u can get by without a fule pump. tecumseh and kholer both make those metal cover to take the place of the pump but u will need new gasket to go from the block to the cover. i have both the cover and the gasket if you are intrested n that instead of puting a fue pump back on it.

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mattd860

The seal is actually dry on both sides and can be purchased here - http://www.rcpw.com/search/?quest=25-041-10-S&x=9&y=15

I'm 99.999% oil is not entering the pump via the exterior. The back of the pump has a metal "hook like" guide or channel that sticks inside the block. That metal "hook" was all oily as well. Are the fuel pumps driven by oil or by vacuum????

Any idea where that wire coming from the flywheel sensor is supposed to go to??

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Jim_M

The seal is actually dry on both sides and can be purchased here - http://www.rcpw.com/search/?quest=25-041-10-S&x=9&y=15

I'm 99.999% oil is not entering the pump via the exterior. The back of the pump has a metal "hook like" guide or channel that sticks inside the block. That metal "hook" was all oily as well. Are the fuel pumps driven by oil or by vacuum????

Any idea where that wire coming from the flywheel sensor is supposed to go to??

That "hook" is the pump actuator, it drives off of the camshaft.

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mattd860

ok so there shouldn't be any oil present there correct?

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Duff

ok so there shouldn't be any oil present there correct?

Quite the opposite - that arm has to be lubricated where it rides on the cam lobe, so yes, there has to be oil there! You also have to be careful to reinstall the pump with the arm facing correctly or it will bend or break the arm off the pump. :USA:

I haven'tseen it mentioned here yet and I don't know much about the K301's, but somewhere there should be a crankase breather with a tube that runs into the air cleaner. If the breather is messed up (like maybe the reed is broken or nor set right) it may be blowing oil into the carb. Someone with mre experience, jump in here, please!

~Duff :)

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mattd860

Ok - well since there is supposed to be oil on the arm, could it be possible that the internals of the fuel pump are worn and are letting oil into the pump?

I didn't see any tube venting crank case pressure into the air cleaner. It looks like it vents into the atmosphere.

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Duff

Now we're going beyond my knowledge base, so I'll step back and wait for the experienced motor guys to jump in!

But I will offer one really off-the-wall thought: is the motor still on the tractor or did you pull it off to work on it? If the answer is it's off the tractor, then when you dismounted it did you by any chance tip it onto its side? Was the oil completely drained?

As foolish as this may sound, I've have two engines I've worked on that when tipped sideways with oil in them will leak some oil into the carb. I don't know where it comes from, but there's enough to be plenty visible! Both these engines run really nicely when in their normal orientation. :USA:

Duff :)

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mattd860

Thanks - Hopefully I'll find out more as I continue taking apart the motor. I haven't drained the oil yet but it's still bolted to the frame.

Anyone have any thoughts on that rogue wire in the second picture?

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Jim_M

Go to the Kohler website and download the service manual for your engine. It's free and you'll need it when you put your engine back together.

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Polaris2007

Your engine USED to have electronic ignition. That cut off wire is the wire that used to run from the flywheel trigger (still on your engine) to the solid state ignition coil. In your first picture, I can see the breaker points pushrod sticking out of the block. This means that your engine has been converted to a breaker point ignition. You must have removed the points? Just unbolt the flywheel trigger and throw it and the cut off wire away. They don't need to be there anymore.

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mattd860

Thanks polaris!!! That explains a lot. The previous owner took the engine from what I believe was a Charger 12 but it may have been an Electro 12 now that you've pointed that out. The engine is now indeed breaker point ignition but I've temporarily removed the points during the rebuild.

Jim - the manual is downloaded, printed, and sitting next to the tractor :) it was the first thing I did after buying it.

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WheelHorse_of_course

Your engine USED to have electronic ignition. That cut off wire is the wire that used to run from the flywheel trigger (still on your engine) to the solid state ignition coil. In your first picture, I can see the breaker points pushrod sticking out of the block. This means that your engine has been converted to a breaker point ignition. You must have removed the points? Just unbolt the flywheel trigger and throw it and the cut off wire away. They don't need to be there anymore.

Save that trigger - someone with electronic ignition may need it! :USA:

:wh: :)

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WheelHorse_of_course

Oh, and a few more things.

The breather is above the arrow in your picture of the trigger coil. It is held in place by the threaded stud that was holding the throttle stop.

If the fuel pump had a bad diaphragm I suppose in theory oil could get into the fuel system. But *far more likely* you would be getting gas into your oil.

best of luck

:USA: :)

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mattd860

Is it generally recommended to replace the head bolts with new ones during a rebuild.

Also - what methods/chemicals do you use to remove the carbon from the head and block?

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mattd860

Please see the video below. In it, you will see a small amount of play in the balancing gears. It seems the bearing is shot. Do you all agree?

Please also comment on the looseness main rod on the crank.

th_0930100930.jpg

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Kelly

I didn't watch the video. but I will say throw the balance gears away, I'm sure many will agree.

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stevec

if the gears are o.k. and not worn funny from being sloppy, i'd leave them in. the difference is quite noticable in the vibrations without them.

some people claim they grenade unexpectedly, i haven't seen this on a stock engine turning stock rpm's. maybe on a puller or racer pushing that poor engine upwards of 5k but not on a stocker. they are ther for a reason. :)

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