ricky115 4 #1 Posted September 20, 2010 :USA: finally got the old horse running,all electrical problems solved, runs very good, when i tried to back it out of the garage, low and behold nothing, i could'nt check it before because it was'nt running. had to push it in the garage, the drive belt sems to be a little long...or maybe its the wrong one, it was on it when i picked it up, i believe its a Sundstrand-drive, all the pullies seem free, the foward and reverse lever is free, the cam moves up and down ok, i just dont know enough about the automatics can anyone help me with a walkthrough or a post that will help me get an idea where im going? I would like to get this old red mare to move...thanks rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #2 Posted September 21, 2010 Make sure the tow valve is closed, some look like a T and you turn it to point to the front or back can't remember what way is open and closed right now, most of the time there is a decal that shows you, now if yours has a early trans it will have a nut in between the toolbox and trans you turn with a 1/2" wrench to open or close, agian there should be a decal, but if it is the nut style just turn it all the way in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricky115 4 #3 Posted September 21, 2010 thanks kelly ill give a try...the belt runs the action i assume..does it just go from the rear to the front pully on the engine? and the foward and reverse is controlled by the lever?...there is a lower pully that operates from the right pedal..have no clue what its for, but operates a lower pulley when depressed , is the belt supposed to loop this pulley? im clueless..im thinking its the wrong belt so it dosent engage the trans.thanks ..rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B-8074 19 #4 Posted September 21, 2010 That sounds like the belt tensioner pulley. Pull the lever up to disengage the belt, and push it down to engage. That should take yhe slack out to. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricky115 4 #5 Posted September 21, 2010 b..that pulley is in the rear..that works ok..tightens the belt up some but its still loose..the right foot pedal has a pulley attached to it with a spring thats connected to the frame,when you depress the lever it moves the pulley foward, it that for another attachment?, would you know the belt #or length for the drive belt..i think ill start there...thanks rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #6 Posted September 21, 2010 The pedal and pulley on the right are for the early mower decks, and a few other attachments, don't worry about that, I have a 1075 that the belt is so loose when I disengage it, it falls off sometimes but it still runs the tractor, try the tow valve, I forgot to say the T one end is longer than the other, if you don't have the decal I can look it up for you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricky115 4 #7 Posted September 21, 2010 kelly..thanks i looked at it last night, there are no decals..but there is a nut between the tool box and the trans..i will be checking that out first thing in this morning...ill will keep you posted rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricky115 4 #8 Posted September 21, 2010 kelly..the nut was turned out..i turned it all the way in as you suggested..still no movement,,,the belt tightens some but still seems loose.it dosent seem to move the trans at all ..the belt that is on it ia #4L-720W NAPA (green belt )..anyway of knowing how long this belt is supposed to be? I can only hope its as simple as a belt..rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #9 Posted September 21, 2010 Fluid full? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,880 #10 Posted September 22, 2010 :) Rick what model are talking about?? we can find belt #s through the model. Gary B. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,880 #11 Posted September 22, 2010 :) Rick I believe the belt that u need from W/H toro is 8005 1/2x72" long this would fit that tractor.good luck Gary B............... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #12 Posted September 22, 2010 Apparently that is what he has. 4L is the same as 1/2" He probably has something wrong with either the pump or the motor and a pressure test would decide that. It could be something as simple as a wrong oil filter, air in the pump, stuck valve or bad o rings. Or it could be a bad pump assembly. Charlie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricky115 4 #13 Posted September 22, 2010 thanks guys for all your help..im at a loss....the fluid is full and clean...its a 1966 876 ...the 4L belt is 72" long but its sloppy if i put some tension on the belt with the wheels off the ground the wheels want to move, im going to try another belt, dropping off an inch and see what happens, when i bought this horse the guy told me it was running and he plowed snow with it, but it came without a starter/ gen..now that its running ok...i want it to move...lol..i didnt check too see what filter is on it. What should it be? and as for pressure testing..i might as well learn spanish it might be easier, but whatever it takes.i'll get this sucker going..rick p.s. i'll let ya know how the new belt works out and i ( we) can go from there Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,909 #14 Posted September 22, 2010 Check to be sure that the woodruff key has not fallen out of the drive pulley. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricky115 4 #15 Posted September 22, 2010 :) i want to thank kelly, b-9074, t-1257, charlie, r maynard, for all the help and advice..because each piece was a learning process for me, i am proud to say that this 876 is moving foward and backwards.....i shortened the belt to a 71", after checking the woodruff key, that was in place, and this sucker took off, so i guess the pump and tranny are ok. im like a kid in a candy store..i guess the pullies wear and the 1 inch made the difference. the only problem is there is no belt adjustment that i can see, so how do i keep the belt from slipping off? this tractor does not have the belt cover on the right side...any advice... you guys are the best. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,909 #16 Posted September 22, 2010 I think you may have answered your own question. Without a belt cover on, many tractors won't operate correctly. Mainly, the inability to disengage the clutch. Maybe that has something to do with your belt adjustment issues, and the belt slipping off. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,880 #17 Posted September 23, 2010 :) Rick I would look for a cover at tractor shows or one e-bay it should not much of an investment. I am not sure on this but they all could the same I will have to check. I mean the 876-1076/1276 those 3 models. to see if they are the same in fit and function. I will let u know or some may correct me this. Gary B........... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricky115 4 #18 Posted September 23, 2010 :) that will be the next item on the list....ebay here i come... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HankB 16 #19 Posted September 23, 2010 I think you may have answered your own question. Without a belt cover on, many tractors won't operate correctly. Mainly, the inability to disengage the clutch. Maybe that has something to do with your belt adjustment issues, and the belt slipping off. That's true of the manual transmissions, but this is a Sundstrand hydro. There is no clutch to disengage. There is usually a lever to release tension on the belt for cold starting. It allows you to crank the engine without the extra drag from the trans. It has nothing to do with shifting or neutral. I'm puzzled by what the OP says about there being no adjustment for the drive belt. The tensioner should take up slack in the belt. That would be spring loaded and attached to the lever that releases tension for cold starting. That's there, isn't it? The toro parts list shows a filter (pn 5990) and if I search for "toro 5990 filter" I find http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=toro_co...5-_8750012-0005 which clearly shows a cannister filter on the left side. It looks like an automotive style oil filter but is not. You can get one (either OE or Stens) at your local dealer or on the Internet. It would probably be wise to change the fluid and filter. An older tractor probably had ATF from the factory and that's what you should use in it today. (You can switch over to 10w40 engine oil, but you have to make sure you get all of the ATF out. I think Wheel Horse published a service bulletin for that but I have not looked for it myself.) I'm sure if you search this site for ATF you will find what type is used. -hank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,880 #20 Posted September 23, 2010 :) I believe it was A or mo-par tyranny fluid I can look it up . on the 1075 I used like most modern tyranny's 10/30 that is what the W/Horse dealer told me to use. I hope this helps Gary B........... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricky115 4 #21 Posted September 24, 2010 hank...the lever is there and its working, it lifts to release pressure, and when pushed down it takes up the slack in the belt, but it dos'nt stop the belt from spinning off, it will be fine for awhile then it just spins off. driving me crazy, that is why i thought there was some kind of adjustment, or that the side covers were needed to keep the belt on. when the belt stays on the trans works super both foward and backwards as for the filter its a wheelhorse canister type and the fluid is a clean as can be. thanks rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HankB 16 #22 Posted September 24, 2010 hank...the lever is there and its working, it lifts to release pressure, and when pushed down it takes up the slack in the belt, but it dos'nt stop the belt from spinning off, it will be fine for awhile then it just spins off. driving me crazy, that is why i thought there was some kind of adjustment, or that the side covers were needed to keep the belt on. when the belt stays on the trans works super both foward and backwards I have no experience running one w/out a belt cover. I would expect that if the pulleys were straight, aligned and the idler bearing was good, the belt should run true and not jump off. Does the belt flop around? Have you looked for any wobble in the pulleys? My son taught me a trick for lining up pulleys. Hold a round rod in the groove in one pulley. It should line up with the center of the other pulley. We used 1/2" steel rod because that's what we had handy but a wood dowel should work too. That would be worth checking. Also look for cracks in the frame. Some of these older tractors would develop cracks. I have a weld repair in my Raider 12. Check that the engine bolts are tight too. I was surprised to find two loose on my 314-H. Is the tensioner keeping good tension on the belt? It should have a pretty stiff spring. -hank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricky115 4 #23 Posted September 25, 2010 hank..i never thought to check the engine bolts...first thing in the am, the pullies look to be lined up ok, no wobble or the like...the belt does bounce around..maybe that spring might be the culprit...i will keep ya posted...thanks for sticking with me...im thinking this is my last automatic.. i recently sold my 73 18 auto that developed a rear leak that i was not ready to deal with, i was told the expense was to great....i love wheel horse and the fun is trying to get them right, but i think the stantard trans is the best way to go....ya think?...rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HankB 16 #24 Posted September 25, 2010 hank..i never thought to check the engine bolts...first thing in the am, the pullies look to be lined up ok, no wobble or the like...the belt does bounce around..maybe that spring might be the culprit...i will keep ya posted...thanks for sticking with me...im thinking this is my last automatic.. i recently sold my 73 18 auto that developed a rear leak that i was not ready to deal with, i was told the expense was to great....i love wheel horse and the fun is trying to get them right, but i think the stantard trans is the best way to go....ya think?...rick With the belt bouncing around, I'd look to the tensioner spring or belt cover to keep it in place. My first WH was an auto - a 'Charger V8 and that was replaced in '97 by a new 314-H. For my uses, pushing snow in the winter and mowing in the summer - the auto is great. Particularly pushing snow, I can change direction or speed with the push of a lever. Both were Eaton units and neither trans gave me a lick of trouble. My son got an Electro 12 this sumer that uses the Sundstrand and it has worked fine for him. I think once you get this kink worked out on yours - and I'm certain it will succumb to the relentless application of logic - you will be able to give the auto a decent shot and decide for yourself which you prefer. -hank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricky115 4 #25 Posted September 25, 2010 i tightened the engine bolts, used the metal rod as one guy suggested to align the pulley, it all seems to be ok. the belt routing seems to go only one way, around the trans pulley, under the idler, to the engine pulley, when the belt tensioner is pushed down it puts the tension to the belt, when it puts tension on the belt there is not much clearence between the two belts, it appears when it bounces, they hit and it spins off. am i making any sense at all?..i would post a couple of pics, but i have'nt figured out that photo bucket yet. how about this hank..with no engine covers on it when i bought it, could the engine pulley have been changed and its not the right one? its seems strange that the two belts would be that close????...rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
