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vandamja

Location on Axels of Hub Set Screws

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vandamja

I finished the installation of the new needle bearings in my model 5060 transmission. Thanks to everyone on the site that provided guidance.

I started to re-assemble the tractor last night, and I have a question. When putting the wheels/hubs back on the axles, is the set screw supposed to contact the axle or the woodruff key? I ask this because it seems that no matter what I do, the hubs will inevitably drift back in towards the transmission housing. I have always positioned the hubs so that the screw contacts the axle, and I started to wonder if this is right.

I read a few previous posts on the subject, and it looks like the most popular fix is to drill a second set screw location in each hub.

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pfrederi

The set screw goes on the woodruff key. Do you have the locknut on the set screw?

What does the set screw look like? It should be cup shaped so that it cuts a ring in the key when tight. If teh hub has been slipping along the shaft I would bet the tip of the setscrew is damaged and you need to replace it.

If you want to add a 2nd set screw drill the hole 90 degrees from the original. (12 o'clock original 3 o'clock for the new one)

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wheelhorsec85

the set screw should contact the key . and or axle in some cases. in other words depending on the wheel horse it is eather . now ,you can drill and tap another hole on the opisite side and have 2 set screws . the newer models have 2 set screws . it holds better and i have never seen one walk towards the axle tube

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vandamja

Interesting.

I actually have a different situation on each side. One hub seems to have the original set screw and lock nut. I am sure you are right that the tip of that original set screw is messsed up from hitting the axle. I do have a milling machine, so I might be able to put a new cup on the end of it.

The other hub has a larger bolt with no set screw. i received the tractor in this condition. I always assumed that the PO had probably stripped out the original hole and drilled it out to re-tapped it.

Probably the correct coarse of action would be to repair/replace the existing set screw and then locate a set for the side with the non OEM set-up, drill and tap that hub to the correct spec and install a new screw?

Do you happen to know if those set screws and lock nuts still available from Toro?

Thanks,

Jim

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The Toolman

The best way to hold a pulley or hub is to have another set screw exactly 90 deg away from the first, not 180 deg.

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tgranthamfd

Some of the older ones had 2 holes, but they only used the one over the woodruff key. I bought the square head 3/8' bolt and the jam nuts at either Tractor supply or Ace Hardware, for my c-160. It was the one that had the second threaded hole in the factory hubs, it was filled and packed with 30yrs of dirt, grease, and oil. One of our other ones was the same way, too. Just couldn't figure out why they would have two threaded holes and just use 1 jam bolt. :)

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pfrederi

Probably the correct coarse of action would be to repair/replace the existing set screw and then locate a set for the side with the non OEM set-up, drill and tap that hub to the correct spec and install a new screw?

Do you happen to know if those set screws and lock nuts still available from Toro?

Thanks,

Jim

The set screw is a common 3/8-16 and is available at most any hardware store. The lock nut is just a 3/8 jam nut (about half thickness of standard nut). I bought a box of each from McMaster as I do not have a milling machine (way cool by the way).

You could mill a cup in the end of any bolt and use a regular thickness nut if the bolt was long enough.

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The Toolman

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