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vandamja

1067 Transmission - Axle Seals

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vandamja

The model 5060 transmission in the 1067 has VERY short seal life. The left hand side seal's life can be measured in days, and the right hand side in months. I have changed them a number of times, but really, I would like to permanently fix this problem.

I'm going to guess that this is being caused by excess play in the axle shafts. During the process of changing the seals I have noticed that there is what I would consider to be excessive end play on the axles. In looking at the manual I can see that there are probably two bearings on each side that would need to be replaced. one needle bearing and one ball bearing. The axles themselves seem to be in pretty good shape, at least the portion that I can see.

I'm curious what the experts on here would say about this. What is the smart thing to do here? If I am going to crack the transmission, should I plan on replacing all of the bearings? Is that even feasible? Are the bearings available, and if so, are they priced such that doing the job will not cost more than the tractor is worth?

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pfrederi

The bearings do not control end play. That is a function of the snap ring and groove on the end of axle inside the differential. If the axle shaft is in good shape (smooth no burrs pits around the area the seal rides on then a small amount of end play (which is normal) will not cause seal failure. Note: Some older transmissions used a roll pin instead of a snap ring to hold the axle. Excess pin wear can allow excessive end play.

If however you have up and down wiggle (or front to back) then you do need to look at bearings. There should be no up down front to rear movement....That kind of movement will increase wear rate on seals.

Are you sure you are not damaging the seals during installation?? the sharp edges on the keyways and the burrs created by the set screws can wreak havoc on a seal.

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VinsRJ

I agree with what was stated above. Check for any burrs or wear on the axels.

If there is any side to side or up and down movement of the axel shafts IMO you will have to field strip the tranny and inspect each bearing. Remove the bearings, clean them and gently spin them in your hand. If there is any chatter or excessive play in the bearing when spun in your hand, replace the bearing. If not, then you can you can feel confident that its ok to re-use.

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Coadster32

If you feel end play, then you have end play. Meaning bad outer bearings, and this is most likely why the seals don't last long. It is true that you can rip the seals over the axle key slot, but bad bearings are the most likely cause. The outer bearings are avail. Measure the sizes and buy from Kaman or McMaster Carr. The inner big bearing is not so easy to get. Unless it's been sitting in water, most likely it's ok anyway ($70 bearing each). The gasket is still avail. from Toro dealer for around $5. Get-R-Done! :thumbs:

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pfrederi

Just to clarify my post To me end play means in and out movement of the axle shaft. A small amount of in and out movement is normal.

Wiggle-- up, down, front, or back is not acceptable and does point to bearing failure. see pinned post at the top of this page for the bearing numbers....

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vandamja

Perhaps end play was the wrong term. The play that I see on the axles is "wiggle" meaning that I can grab the end of the axle and move it right to left and up and down.

I have always tried to clean the axle shafts and make sure that I do not damage the seal when I install it. For the number of times that I have done it, I would think one of those times I would have been able to get the seal on without damaging it.

This tractor is a worker, so I need it to mow the grass. Once the season is over I will take the transmission apart and see what I am looking at for the repair.

Thanks for all the help.

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pfrederi

I know it is hard to take a machine out of service...but... if you have wiggle that you can easily feel then the needle bearings are likely well on the way out. If they fail and release needles into the rear end it is not a pretty or cheap to fix issue. The needle bearings are cheap.

This is the axle from my brother's C-81 that had a needle bearing go bad. In addition to a new axle shaft I had to replace the inner ball bearing $$$$

34ad4a92443285.jpg

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vandamja

YIKES.

Yeah. Maybe I should take care of that problem sooner rather than later.

So, best case.... I need to split the transmission. Pull the axle/differential assembly and then remove the big inner ball bearings, and then the needle bearings. Can this be done at this point, or does the rest of the transmission need to come apart to access the bearings in the opposite side housing?

Do all the bearings come out/go in without needing to be pressed?

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pfrederi

You can download a free WH transmission overhaul manual, from the Toro site and other places. Somewhere here there is a thread that has a picture by picture tear down.

Buy the two needle bearings before you start (if you are splitting the tranny anyway it is false economy to not replace both side needle bearings, they are less than $10 each from a bearing house or even an autoparts store) and a transmission gasket about $5 from toro and you can do it in an afternoon.

If the inner ball bearings are bad they are only available form Toro and depending where you get them 65-90 bucks...each!!!

You have to drive the needle bearings out from the inside. I use a brass drift pin I got from Harbor freight .but any rod long enough could be used.

New bearings go in from the outside. Find yourself a socket that is just slightly smaller then the bearing (or a washer) and tap it in gently keeping it straight.

Oh you should do the seals again while you are at it.

One last hint...get yourself 2- 3/8" by 2 or 3 inch NC bolts. Cut off the head and taper the end slightly. The cut a slot in the end that will fit a screwdriver. When you remove the transmission bolts that holds it to the frame replace 2 of them with these aligning pins. Makes it easier to roll the trans back from the frame and makes re installation a snap.

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vandamja

I do have a copy of the transmission manual, and it covers a number of the steps really well, but it does not cover the removal of either of those bearings. I didn't see it in the thread by dgjks6 on putting the transmission back together. (Great thread by the way, thanks for posting it.)

So, the needle bearings can be driven out without taking the inner ball bearing out then? That will make my life easier, especially if those inner ball bearings are pressed into the housing.

I guess I will order the needle bearings, pick up some seals and a new gasket, and make it happen. Hopefully the ball bearings look good. The transmission has always worked really well.

Jim

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rickv1957

Jim it will be fine as the trans is not that difficult,Rick

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vandamja

The parts have all been ordered and are on their way.

Thanks so much for everyone's help. What a great resource.

Jim

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pfrederi

You have already beaten the worst part of this project...since you have had to replace the seals before...getting the hubs off the axle!

On my brothers C-81 I finally had to break one hub to get it off...

If you need any help let us know..

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vandamja

I have heard that it can really be difficult to get those off sometimes. I think I was assisted by all the gear oil that had been leaking.

I actually have had the opposite problem. Getting the hubs to stay on the axle where I put them. They always want to wander.

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Coadster32

You have already beaten the worst part of this project

Don't forget the hitch pin also. :thumbs:

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vandamja

Good call on that hitch pin. That thing was a real pain. I ended up getting out the torch and heating up both sides. It finally moved, but I will be honest, there were a few minutes there that I started to doubt that it was going to come apart.

The axles look pretty good. There was a little bit of corrosion on one side. The needle bearings on the side that had the shortest life were actually all cocked a little bit, so they were not turning all all. The bearing on the other side seemed to still be free, but all of the needles fell out as I was driving it out.

So, the new bearings are in. The case is still split. I just ran out of time last night. I am hoping that today I can get it back together. all of the other bearings still look good. The big ball bearings luckily still seem to be fine.

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vandamja

The tractor is back together and I mowed the grass last night. Thanks to everyone that helped out.

I was able to install the new bearings without taking the transmission completely apart. I split the casing and took the one side off, drove the bearing out and installed the new one. Then I drove the next bearing out with all of the gears still in place in the other half. I then put the side of the casing back on that I had removed, installed four of the bolts, flipped it over, installed the last needle bearing, flipped it back over, took it apart again and finally installed the new gasket and put it all together again for the last time.

It is a time consuming project, just because of how much disassembly you have to do, but it was not hard.

One more 40+ year old Wheel Horse back in action in proper working order.

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Coadster32

Great to hear it. After I beat out my hitch pin, I made a new hitch pin a few thousanths smaller than the stock one, and greased it all up nicey nicey. My needles fell out of the bearing also when I did mine.

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Lane Ranger

Don't forget you can use a regular 3/4 x 6 1/2 or 6 3/4 hitch pin from TSC to replace the original Wheel Hrose hitch pin and e rings.

It gives you flexibility on changing hitches also.

102_5891.jpg

:)

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