1978 deck on my 1988

[persof 14]

Deck experts,

Will a 42" rear discharge deck with a model # 85-42MR01 fit my 312-8 ?

The WH compatibility chart shows a part # of 05-42MR04 for my 1988 312-8, this p/n supercedes

05-42MR03 and 05-42MR02 and 05-42MR01 but the first digits 85- vs 05- do not cross reference.

The deck I am looking to buy is currently mounted on a C160

Thanks

Francis

[C-Series14 15]

Yes it will...the first 2 numbers are year designations...Some are easy to figure out, some not! :thumbs:

[gwgdog66 23]

Yes it will.

[persof 14]

The tag on the mower deck in question is: 42MR01-4155

What do the last digits mean?

Thanks

Francis

[gwgdog66 23]

The tag on the mower deck in question is:

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,533]

A 1977 model 75-42MR01 could have a 4155 serial number. The original spindles were non-greaseable and the shafts were double-D. Other serial found 2961

A 1977 model 75-42MR02 was the first to use greaseable spindles and round shafts.

1978-79 models 85-42MR01 and 95-42MR01 could have low serials but have seen only 22261, 23244 and 31221 on mower decks. It appears the decks 1978 on had a Julian build date following the serial number. Round spindle and greaseable.

A 1980 model 05-42MR01 could also have a 4155 serial number. Other serial 3479, 3549 with a 9274 build date, 4358, 4381 with a 0087 build date. Round spindle and greaseable.

1981 models 05-42MR01 found have serials 34957, 35059, 35240 with a 1148 build date. Round spindle and greaseable.

1982-83 also used low serials but have not found any on 5-42MR01 mower decks. Round spindle and greaseable.

Garry

[persof 14]

Garry,

Wow! that's a lot of detail. I got the deck today and it fits my 312-8 just fine. The two outer spindles are very noisy, IE its almost more than the engine noise, but that can be fixed,

The tag on the deck says 42MR01-4155 and below that it says 6353. The spindles are non-grease-able and double D ends.

Any reason why I cannot add grease zerks to the sides of the spindle housings as there seems to be almost 1/8" clearance between the shaft and the inside of the spindle housing?

There is a ball bearing at the pulley end of the spindle housing and it seems to be smooth; could all of that noise be coming from the other (blade end) ?

I hope to avoid dealer parts if I can.

Thanks

Francis

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,533]

The 6353 Julian build date = 353rd day of 1976 = Monday December 19, 1976 so the deck model number is 75-42MR01.

There are likely mower spindle charts posted here somewhere or at

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wheelhorsetractormanuals5/

When you open it find your deck in the index and click on the letter K. That will take you to a page that shows all the upgrades to the spindles but follow the info through because some of it has also changed.

No reason the grease zerk won't work. They state in the chart to fill the housing with grease. The lower 100289 bearing is likely a B1212 Torrington if it is 3/4" long. Check the condition of the shaft it runs on - may be messed up.

Garry

[persof 14]

Garry,

The lower needle bearing # 100289 has a dealer cost of $25 which is ok by me.

Do I need special tools to remove the old one and install the new one?

Thanks

Francis

[persof 14]

I stopped at the Napa store and bought a snapring plier and was able to completly disasemble the spindle assembly. I discovered that the pulley end bearing #101411 is also graveley and will need replacement.

Other than toro where can I get a part like this? Locally?

Thanks

Francis

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,533]

Do you have a local industrial or bearing supplier? Take the old bearing with you so they can match it up. It may be an R-12 series with the correct shields or seals and if so they will need to be removed from one side if you are adding a grease zerk.

Garry

[persof 14]

Garry,

How do I remove the blade end needle bearing?

Do I put the spindle housing in a 400 degree oven for 15 minutes and then tap it out with a wooden dowell rod?

Thanks

Francis

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,533]

That may work. The aluminum will likely expand a bit more that the steel bearing shell. Let us know if it works.

I use a driver that has an OD a few .001" under the 1" so it does not end up jambed in the bore. The bearing shell is just tin so you want to push as close as possible on the outside of it.

Garry

[SAM58 30]

I could be wrong, but I think you can use the Bearing # 6203-2RS

They have seals on both sides, but just pop one out so grease can get to the bearing.

yours should have a spindle upper, lower bearing, retainer ring on bottom, and a small o-ring on top of the spindle.

I just used them on my 1985 deck about $2.00 each from several differnt vendors.

just check the size first.... :thumbs:

[persof 14]

To remove the blade end needle bearing do I put the spindle housing in a 400 degree oven for 15 minutes and then tap it out with a wooden dowell rod?

Do I push it out the end ~or~ back into the body of the spindle and out out the other end?

Thanks

Francis

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,533]

Yes push it out the end.

Garry

[persof 14]

I took a trip to Applied Industrial Technologies in Gaithersburg, MD 301-990-0800 and showed them the old bearings and he will order me some replacements.

$15.00 each for the pulley side and $11.00 each for the blade side.

Thanks

Francis