Save Old Iron 1,568 #26 Posted July 10, 2010 Jim, I know your a gentleman - so I think Lady Liberty's secrets are safe. Ahem... Do you not mean "you're" ? (sorry, I kuhdn't rezist) I'm so embarassed - imagine ME making a mistake! Jim, I think you should assume the new position of "Grammar Gopher" and team up with the Spelling Bee. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rick 246 #27 Posted July 10, 2010 I've never done it, but have heard of wrapping the "treated" tank in a sleeping bag or similar textile cushioning, and stuffing it in the clothes dryer on the UNHEATED mode, whatever name that is. Again, NO HEAT. I shouted because I don't want to hear a bunch comments about how dangerous heating a fuel tank would be. Heck, life is dangerous, at least if you are going to get enjoyment out of it. Again, I have never tried it myself, but the guy who did lived to write about it. we don't all have a cement mixer, but I bet there is a dryer at hand. I scrub my engine blocks in the kitchen sink when they come back from the machine shop, the MRS. gives me no static. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
300zx 7 #28 Posted July 10, 2010 Rick, that sounds logical. When my wife bought a new set after 15 years, I took the old washer and drier to my shop to use on shop towels and anything else I wanted to wash. I would have no trouble suspending it in that drier. I have had good luck the last two days with the purple power. I put about two cups of concentrate in the tank and set it on the hot asphalt. I rinsed with hot water last night and did the same again tonight. I can actually see the bottom tonight. I put two more cups in tonight and filled it with hot tap water to soak over night. If it looks good tomorrow, I am going to put in a new valve with mesh filter and a new grommet. It will have new fuel line and a new filter at the engine. So, I think I am about ready to install the engine and try out the hydro to see how it does. Have you, or anyone else, found a good way to clean the corrosion off of the aluminum Onan block? I would sure like to clean it up some more. It has been pressure washed, but still looks pretty rough with surface corrosion. We were working on a friends Onan and tried oven cleaner followed by heat from the sun with very little success. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,147 #29 Posted July 10, 2010 Have you, or anyone else, found a good way to clean the corrosion off of the aluminum Onan block? I would sure like to clean it up some more. It has been pressure washed, but still looks pretty rough with surface corrosion. Look to the trucking industry for the best aluminum cleaners. (think pneumatic bulk tank and dump trailers, aluminum fuel tanks, wheels, etc.) The harsh hydrofluoric acid-based cleaners are slowly giving way to more environmentally-friendly (translation: costs more and doesn't work as well ) citrus-based cleaner/brighteners, but they still work. If you have any truck wash/truck stops in your area you can check with them, or do an online search for "aluminum brightener". Here's a head start for you: Link to Anko Products website Once you get the aluminum clean you can regularly spray it with WD-40 to keep it looking decent. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
300zx 7 #30 Posted July 10, 2010 TT, thanks for the input. We have two large truck repair and parts places here in Lynchburg. I will give them a try. Otherwise, the internet seems to always provide for the right price. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bitten 134 #31 Posted July 11, 2010 A/C condenser cleaner might work for you also. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Operator 7 #33 Posted July 11, 2010 Do you think baking soda and water [hot] would work? It workks on battery terminals. Just a thought, and cheap too. Randy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mavfreak 11 #34 Posted July 11, 2010 I don't know if it would brake down the old gas and gum biuld up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
linen beige 14 #35 Posted July 13, 2010 Jim, I think you should assume the new position of "Grammar Gopher" and team up with the Spelling Bee. Knot mee! I aint purrfickt buy uh lawng schott. Know knead too beet yourselph up Chuck. Its awl inn phun. :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #36 Posted July 13, 2010 The product,chemtech carb cleaner works great on the metal tanks but dont know that plastic will hold up to it,Rick Chemtech is something I only discovered this year. It is great stuff and is also the cheapest of all the other major brands!! When I say great stuff I mean it works much better than the more expensive name brands. I don't know why but there is a can of it behind me! Butch S. Jersey Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
300zx 7 #37 Posted July 13, 2010 Where did you get the chemtech? The purple power (I think it is called super clean now) worked great. It took 3 days of soaking in the sun and rinsing each night with hot tap water, but it is really clean now. I am interested in finding the ChemTech to use on metal tanks. What is its main purpose? Is it also a carb cleaner? I was at our local Tractor Supply yesterday and they were clearing out a liquid you could pour in your tank that would harden and line the tank. It is only for metal tanks and they claimed it would not stick to plastic parts. A quart had been $35 (expensive), but they were clearing it out for $3, so I snagged it for a future project. Has anyone tried it? They also were clearing out some of the Velspar Restoration paint, so I got 4 quarts of the IH red for $7 each. I have only used the implement quality, I am anxious to see how the restoration quality does. Just shaking the can makes me think it is thinner and maybe more paint gun friendly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mavfreak 11 #38 Posted July 13, 2010 I've used that stuff in a motorcycle tanks on occasion it works and lasts a long time but it will peal out. I would recommend it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
