truckin88 104 #1 Posted May 11, 2010 Anybody have advice for laying a concrete patio and walkway. My dad and I are starting on mine in a few weeks. I am renting an escavator and digging. He has done it, I get the concept just looking for advise. The downside to a new house in this area , is none of the landscaping is done, which gets freakin expesnive. Hopefully this DIY cuts masons estimates by half. I know people will recommend pavers are big $$ and lots of time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
linen beige 15 #2 Posted May 11, 2010 Three years ago I put in a patio. I used a Wt-242 to loosen the soil and a 702 with a dozer blade to move the soil away. I then used the 702 and a 1054A with a small grader box to spread my rock and pack it down. I built my forms from 2x4s to get the final level where I wanted it and paid a pro to pour/finish the surface. I then used the 'Horses to back fill and finish grade. The estimates for the pro to do all the work was $5900. The bill to furnish and install the wire mesh and pour/finish 6 sq. yards was $1400, and my WH investment was $1100. The rock cost $200. I saved $3200 and got some FUN seat time. I've reminded the wife several times that since the 'Horses paid for themselves and then some, she owes me $3200 worth of Wheel Horse, but she just rolls her eyes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 23,275 #3 Posted May 11, 2010 That is funny Jim....women and logic in the same sentence...that is just wrong. Having a pro do the concrete work on a large project...priceless. Getting to use the horses to save money and have fun...Phenomenal . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
linen beige 15 #4 Posted May 11, 2010 women and logic in the same sentence...that is just wrong. To further confuse... When we were first looking at this new place I mentioned that an area in the back yard needed to be re-graded to stop rain water from flowing toward the house. She immediately asked if that meant we would have to pay someone a bunch of cash to do it or could I do the work with the Wheel Horses. :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stoneman 10 #5 Posted May 11, 2010 give me a call. 330-503-7633. i can tell you everything you need to know. :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickv1957 74 #6 Posted May 11, 2010 Im a pro excavator by trade,you can do it your self!!!,Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Operator 7 #7 Posted May 11, 2010 Like Rick says "Do the dirt work yourself". Compact really good vibrator type, I'd get a finisher to finish it off nice. How about a "stamped" finish? A little design of some sort. Randy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
truckin88 104 #8 Posted May 12, 2010 Yeah I am renting a bobcat 322 excavator. $250 for the weekend. The problem with stamped is masons want between 8 and 10 a sqaure to stamp, dye and seal. To do it yourself the molds are big $$$. The concrete is about 10yds at about $100 a yard for 4500 psi. It is 800 sq ft all together. I am getting quotes of about $5000. I figure I can do it myself but slower at around 2000. I really do not like these guys just wanting to use fiber-crete and no mesh...there are lots of them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Operator 7 #9 Posted May 12, 2010 When I put up my shop my concrete guy said "stay away from the fiber-crete" the little fibers come to surface whn finishing I guess. I used rebar. Randy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckeye 5 #10 Posted May 14, 2010 Being a concrete finisher for 15 yrs. I would say the reinforcing fiber is actually a good product. I like wire mesh but, it will evenually crack and start to rust, and when you pour your slab you always have to make sure the wire mesh stays 1" from top of slab.(it's useless on the bottom of the slab) As far as fiber coming to the surface when finishing, I have only seen it happen when not properly finished. If your going to do sidewalk, i would recommend that you put two pieces of #3 rebar parallel to each other along the whole length of walk. This will ensure the sidewalk does not crack\shift. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
refracman 167 #11 Posted May 16, 2010 Gotta agree with Buckeye on this. 1/2 rebar pinned into the foundation at least 2" into it. 2 running the length of the walk and in the patio, pinned into the foundation, lay it grid style 3ft x 3ft with the concrete being fibrated 6 bag mix with air. In the walk cut joints every 4 ft, patio 6ft and at least 4" thick. Mesh is a pain and usually ends up on the bottom which does no good. Rod is easy to center and if you paint it like they do for bridges, it'll last a lot longer than mesh either way. Broom finish is easiest, wait till the top has a decent crust but not real hard and pull the broom to you and have it moist, rinse off if a lot of crust build up and shake off exess. I allways used a skid steer, a lot easier to cut and grade with for flat work. And remember concrete is guarenteed to 2 things, get hard and crack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brrly1 1,146 #12 Posted May 16, 2010 Hello, hey I don't claim to know a whole bunch about this but I would suggest sawcutting it for expansion or possibly put in some plastic type joints that will work well or put in fake joints about every four feet. Sawcut it an inch deep per four inch slab or 1/4 inch per inch of thinkness. Fiber mesh works well just like mesh or rebar. By cutting it, it gives the concrete a place to crack. As it has already been said concrete does two things it gets hard and cracks. 35 years in the business, I have lots of practice. Good Luck Burly :USA: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
