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stevebo

My 310 - 8 unidrive problems-help!!

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stevebo

Well today after my restoration I noticed that the rear axle seal was leaking ever so slightly so... I loosened the set screws in the hub and tried to remove the hub off the axle by hitting it on the backside and heating it (bad idea). It would not budge until I actually broke a piece off the hub (which I later welded back on and is fine now. The hub did not come off however the axle came out of the rear end. There is a grove in the teeth of the gears on the shaft. I assume that there is a set clip or something. So.. I pulled the rear end off and cracked the case. Inside the gears looked fine however there is some rusting on the top side of the case which is most likely a result of a bad boot and water sitting inside. I will clean is the best I can.

My question is this:

How do I ge the axle back in the rear end if I cannot get hub off? Does anyone have the diagram of this rear end? 310-8? If you could post or email me at

sbotelho@garlandind.com

thanks-

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oldandred

Well lets see you need a puller if it doesnt slide out but clean up any of the axle thats showing frist next theres a c-clip that holds the axle in the tranny next youre going to need a new one belive me been there done that i pulled one apart three times before I used a new one toro still has them and dont try to re use the one over there a wheel group that has the manuals on trannys go to wheel horse manuals group in yahoo but you need to get the hub off frist like I said you need a puller some made on out of a old hub may be some one will tell us the site

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sorekiwi

Since the axle is out, I'd take it to someone with a hydraaulic press and get them to remove the hub for you. Should take about 30 seconds with a big enough press...

Also take a good look at the splines at the other (inner) end, and make sure the circlip didnt damage them when you pounded it off -

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stevebo

Would it be okay to use any snapring clip??

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Rideawaysenior

Steve,

OEM is the is the only way to go. You should use the proper ring. Also, the press really is the only way to go when removing the axles from the hubs.

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kpinnc

PM sent Steve.

Kevin

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Duff

Steve,

OEM is the is the only way to go. You should use the proper ring. Also, the press really is the only way to go when removing the axles from the hubs.

I'm with Jack 110% on this one......for the few extra cents (snap ring) or dollars (new axle if needed), it's money extremely well spent!

While you've got the tranny split, take a really close look at the bearings all around, especially if you have signs of rust inside the case. They are not all that expensive (in this case you don't need to go to Toro - Timken and Chicago Rawhide bearings and seals are OEM and available from other sources).

Newbies who may be reading this thread....be especially careful not to beat on the axles or shafts on these unidrives. The trannies are pretty bomb proof operationally, but they weren't made to be whupped on with hammers and the like. Rented or borrowed pullers or presses are the way to go, and as you reassemble things, take the time to carefully clean surfaces with emory cloth or a similar very gentle abrasive and solvents so things don't get bound up sliding back on. I learned the hard way myself! :notworthy:

Duff :thumbs:

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pfrederi

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d180man

Hi i go with the hydraaulic press we have had to do that more than i like to say but it is the best i think and yes i would buy a oem snap rind so you dont have your axl fall off ! good luck with it ! :notworthy: :thumbs:

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