New Clutch Spring

[MaineDad 85]

Guys,

Last night I removed the gas shock and replaced it with a new clutch spring. That dang shock was so bad that I did not have any control with releasing the clutch. What a difference that spring makes.

Now I have to re-adjust the brake. Anyone else done this too?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

This was just discussed over at the big Yahoo! group about 5 days ago

It was a bit of a different problem, but still the same area. I know it certainly helps cut down on unexpected wheelies, and it allows smoother engagement, which means less "shock" to the transaxle. Another person even recommended periodically checking the four bolts that join the transaxle to the frame mounting plate. (which is good practice anyway!)

The gas spring discussion seems to come up alot, and the best thing I can recommend is exactly what you've done with yours.

Here's what he was up against though:

" My 312-8 purchased new in 2000 has started experiencing

main drive belt problems. It broke a couple winters ago while blowing snow.

Now, only a couple years later, it is very worn and slips off the pulleys

at the worst possible times (blowing snow, at the end of the long

drive, in the cold, etc). Snow does get packed into the housing

below the seat and shifter housing (and stays there, as it is stored in an

open shed with no heat). Might this be impacting a return or

tensioning spring, or is there something more fundamental that needs

to be addressed? This does not seem to be a warm-weather problem...

Jim"

"Jim,

I think you may have a problem with your idler pulley, or

possibly the metal tab that keeps the belt on it. You also may want

to check the belt shield. It is very rare that you should be

replacing the drive belt that often. Blowing snow really does not

put a huge demand on the transmission either, not as much as say

pushing a plow. I have a C125 8 speed that The drive belt is about

10 years old on. I plow with this machine and have not ever had any

problems.

Check those areas, I'll bet you find your problem in there.

Jack"

"In addition to what Jack is saying, you should go to your Toro dealer

and purchase a P/N 108035 spring. (about $5.00) (buy a P/N 93-9808

belt while you're there too -- about $28.00)

Install the spring from the small hole in the clutch arm (left side

of tractor -- under the rear fender) to the small hole in the left

axle housing on the transaxle. Remove the gas spring on the right

side of the tractor. (it connects from the tensioner pulley arm to

the tractor frame)

Throw the gas spring unit in the trash.

Unbolt the idler pulley and install the new belt. Do not bend the

tab on top of the idler pulley arm to install the belt!

Terry"

"Thanks to both of you. As I was putting the new belt on, I looked at

that tab that holds it on, and recalled that during the first belt

(which had broken) replacement, in the snow and cold, I bent that tab

up a bit to get the new one on...and did not bend it back. That now

looked like a problem and apparently it was.

Also, as I was looking things over I wondered where and how a spring

might be attached. Sounds like Toro worked something out for me on

that, and I will get the part as soon as I get to my distant Toro

dealer...or improvise something in the meantime.

Jim"

[kpinnc 10,686]

Gas shock?

Is that something used on the newer machines? I've never seen one.

Kevin

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

Micah,

I had a couple of threads about this for my '98 314-8. Here they are:

Clutch spring fix

finding the problem

And here's one more:

Clutch Spring Adjustment?

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

Gas shock?

Is that something used on the newer machines? I've never seen one.

Kevin

Kevin,

Yes some of the newer models used this setup. They tend to get weak - think gas shock on a rear hatchback. :thumbs:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Gas shock?

Is that something used on the newer machines? I've never seen one.

Kevin

I believe they were used starting in 1991.

The damper mounts between the idler pulley arm and the frame and is supposed to dampen the clutch action. (So you can't "pop" the clutch and cause the tractor to flip over backwards, I guess. (More safety issues & lawsuits, I suppose?)

It was my understanding at first, that the damper (now installed on the right) actually replaced the "real" spring on the left side of the tractor, but it looks like they were both on there together.

There is a conversion kit available for all of the 300 series "Classic" gear drive tractors, but I wouldn't know why you'd actually want one.

By the way -- a new-style replacement damper (P/N 100-8732) is over $82.00 and the old-style (P/N 78-3240) is around $47.77!

P/N 104-5095 kit:

[MaineDad 85]

Terry,

Thanks for the links. BTW did you ever figure out how to fix your brake? Mine is really loose and the adjustment nut is tightened all the way. The brake pedal is resting all the way back towards my foot instead of more forward like the clutch does. Maybe time for a new brake band?

Micah

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

TT,

On my 314-8 that spring was not there. The holes and the notches were there but not the spring. I just found a replacement off a JD parts tractor and it worked, for the time being. I might go buy the real one, though, someday. :thumbs:

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

Micah,

No - it stops so I haven't looked further into it. I need to do that though as, in my unskill opinion, the petal is too high. :imstupid:

[kpinnc 10,686]

Looks like it would make clutching a pain for sure.

Especially when it started to wear out.

Thanks for the info!

Kevin