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Indy w h

My E-tank

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Indy w h

Alrighty then. My 5gal. E-tank is completed!! Tried a few "small" items. They came out ok, I think

so my question is. I'm wanting to try a front rim,do I put a bolt through the valvestem hole?? Or

do I hang it from a wire or chain?? Help me out. I'm trying something new to me and I want to

do this right.

Thanks in advance. !!

Indy :notworthy:

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jusjeepn

Marshall, I've had great success tack welding a steel hook to the rim and just suspending it with that. Tack it to the part of the rim that the tire covers. If you don't have access to a welder, I think a wire hook through the valve stem hole would work ok too.

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Indy w h

Thanks pat!! This isn't as big as yours. It's knda like a Minnie-me version,but I think it is gonna work ok. We tried a piece of 5/8 rod last night hanging by some wire but didn't reall get the fizz going until we clamped the lead right to the rod. It was a whole diffrent ballgame then,fizz galore!! Thanks for the info,Pat!!!

P.s. How's the plow coming??

Indy

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stevasaurus

Marshall...wire brush a spot and attach a c-clamp to the cleaned spot so that the clamp will stick out of the water...attach the black clip to that. Will not hurt clamp...so you can use a big one if you wnat. Electrolsys only attacks the rust...not the metal...will loosen the paint so that if you sand blast after...not much to do...a brillo pad will clean up loose paint when you are done. :thumbs:

Like you told me...a piece of cake. :notworthy:

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rickv1957

Sounds like something I need!,Rick

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Indy w h

Thatz pretty funny steve,ya got me!!!lol I guess ihad that coming.

Rick ya gotta try this E-tank thing out !!! It's amazing!!

Thanks everybody for all the info

Indy

P.S. It's a piece of cake!!!!

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jusjeepn

Actually Steve, it could be affecting the metal. If you have read all the posts here and on other sights, it is strongly recommended that you do not do hardened parts such as tranny gears and such. It is believed that the process could (not proven) make the outer layers of the steel brittle and prone to premature failure. Almost all parts I do go through an extensive drying process. It's actually a pretty elaborate system that I am very proud of but cannot take credit for........ A gas grill. :thumbs: I have used 3 tanks of fuel this summer alone on this grill and it wasn't cooking steaks. :WRS: This thoroughly dries the steel for paint and hopefully helps to eliminate any future problems with brittleness in the metal. I have only been doing this process myself for about 6 or 7 months so any long term affects have not surfaced as of yet. This is just info I wish to pass on from what I have read, NOT what I have experienced.

Marshall, The plow beam has been primed. The coulter, share and moldboard are cooking now! :notworthy:

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Save Old Iron

Hydrogen embrittlement is the effect your referring to.

when free hygrogen gas is near high strength steel AT HIGH TEMPERATURES - the hydrogen can get absorbed into the pockets of the metal and cause a pressure that flakes off metal.

I have heard of this happening at welding temperatures but I'm not sure its a concern at the 100 degree F temps encountered in a homemade E tank.

Maybe someone else has some real world experience with this issue.

:notworthy:

I also thought I read where the absorbed hydrogen gets released from the metal over time when exposure to the hydrogen stops.

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stevasaurus

Pat, Chuck...never thought about hardened metals. I did read all the information I could find on the site and googled electrolysis...but that was a year ago. Anyway, I had some front rims that I did that were rusted to the point of having inch long holes. They had been filled tires for 40 years. Each one spent a week in the tank...had quite the froth on top. I am thinking it was last December...actually had the liquid freeze on me...down around 20 degrees. Had to bring the bucket inside to thaw it out. Took all of the rust and the old paint off, my c-clamp had an orange tinge to it, but that wiped off with WD-40. I guess that's why I say leaving the part in the liquid along time will not hurt it.

But you guys are right...take metal and gases and heat and you just don't know. :notworthy:

I remember baking my rims in the regular oven, now that you say that. Little order...the wife was working :thumbs:

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kpinnc

I also thought I read where the absorbed hydrogen gets released from the metal over time when exposure to the hydrogen stops.

Yes it does. The problem is that the average Joe has no way to determine how much hydrogen is embedded in the steel, or how long it takes to dissipate and be replaced by oxygen. Heating the steel (relatively LOW heat) speeds the process, and removes any moisture as well, but who knows how long it should be done?

I would suggest temps of no more than 200 degrees for such a thing. You can anneal steel in a regular home oven. I've done it myself making knife blades, and it does happen fairly easily with mild or tool steel.

Kevin

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