My haul today - 400 Suburban

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,041]

Well here is the roundhood that Truckin88 was asking about in the other post. It was located about 45 mins from me. After speaking with Will he decided to pass on this one as he as is picking up a very nice C175 tomorrow

The PO was an older guy who said it needed a stator as it did not have spark. When looking at it the carb was removed, the original heat shield, drive belt cover etc etc. I was impressed with the overall condition of this one. The front and rear tires are perfect, the hood is near perfect, fenders etc. I am on the fence about restoring this one. After doing the carb kit and hokking everything back up I got it running and it ran strong !! The only issue was when running I could not push the clutch/brake and shift it into gear I had to shut it off and put it into gear with the clutch in and it was fine. When messing with the clutch shaft that moves the idler pulley I must have pushed it too far and sheared the pin My thoughts are the belt may be too short and it is alway turning the rear end pulley even when the clutch is pushed in. If anyone has any thoughts on this I am all ears. IF you know the size of the right drive belt pass it my way. Oh I forgot to mention it came with a plow and mower deck in very good condition. This is a complete machine.

[WHC-125 4]

Steve, nice find! I bet its getting a little crowded at your place, so give me a call if you want to thin your herd :notworthy:

[Kelly 1,028]

I agree keep it orig. they are good looking with a little patina on them, and that one has what looks like most if not all the hard to find pieces.

[rickv1957 70]

Steve,that is a very nice original tractor! Rick

[VinsRJ 721]

Steve, been doing a lot of driving this weekend.

Nice score! I restore Kohlers in addition to Clintons, should you decide to restore her. :notworthy:

[Hammerhead 816]

Nice find on this 1960 Suburban! My vote is to keep it in original condition! It's in good shape and looks good with that old patina... Let's try to keep these oldies around. Hammerhead :WRS:

[truckin88 104]

nice machine, can't wait to see it tomorrow, his listing was weak but the pics were nice. I am planning to get into round hoods next year sometime.....

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,041]

Thanks Guys-

After having it running today I cannot get it started tonight I took the carb off and made sure it was clean and then bypassed the sediment bowl and added a filter. There is something funky with the iginition as there is a newer plug wire (autolite) so I plan on pulling the motor off and giving it a proper going through to ensure it runs right.

I would like to know what you guys do to keep it from rusting after I pressure washed it? There are many bare metal spots. I heard of clear coating however I think I may just wipe it down with a little light oil or wd40. Let me know what you all do. Thanks-

[Kelly 1,028]

I use WD 40 spray it on heavy let it set for a while, then buff off the extra with a old towel, towels work best as they don't leave lint all over, WD brings out the red also.

You can buy WD in gal. cans to refill pump bottles my wife bought me that a few years ago for chrismas much cheaper.

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,041]

Thanks Kelly. That will be what I do. I just cannot see restoring this one but I just do not want is to have surface rust either.

[linen beige 14]

IF you know the size of the right drive belt pass it my way.

Part # 1569. Light duty, section 4L (1/2"width X 5/16" height), 28.95 inches. Make sure the belt finger (crooked bolt like thingy on block) is adjusted right.

I'm curious about the metal plate mounted on the engine behind the drive pulleys. I've not seen this before.

Very nice looking 400! You do know that mower deck isn't from '60, right? How does it lift?

[Suburban 550 28]

Real nice find, Steve. It's a real beauty. :notworthy:

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,041]

Jim,

Thanks for the info. I do not know about the deck as I have not had it on yet. The plate near the crank is just a guide for the belt on the bottom. I wiped the entire tractor down last night with light oil and it really does pop. I have never tried that before as I have always ben trying to remove the oil and grease in prep for paint... The part number you gave, is that a wheelhorse part number? Thanks-

[Coadster32 793]

Really nice score Steve! All the covers are there, and usually pricey to get. I'd leave it original also. :notworthy:

[linen beige 14]

Jim,

Thanks for the info. I do not know about the deck as I have not had it on yet. The part number you gave, is that a wheelhorse part number? Thanks-

The 400 used a lift that hooked into the rear hitch. You might have to do a bit of headscratching to make this deck work, but it can be done.

I got that part number from a WH lube and belt chart, so yes, it is a WH part number.

The clutch finger should be about an eighth of an inch away from the belt and the brake rod should be adjusted so that the brake band tightens around the brake drum just as the belt goes slack around the drive pulley. There is room for a little slop in the brake adjustment, but if it's a bit too tight the brake will tighten before the belt releases it's grip on the pulley. That makes for jerky starts and stops.

It may be that the original belt had stretched some and the brake rod adjusted a little to compensate. Then when a replacement belt was installed the brake rod was not adjusted properly for the new belt. I'd measure the belt that's on it to confirm it is the right length and, if it is, try adjusting the brake rod and clutch finger. "Course, if you did break the roll pin in the clutch rod the fix should be obvious. :notworthy:

[whfan74 2,015]

Real nice original looking tractor Steve! I tend to agree with the majority......leave her original. Congrats on the haul!

[CasualObserver 3,406]

Very nice Steve. I agree with the not restoring the nice original patina. Looks almost the same as my 400... (Hrmm... maybe I need to check the shed? ) I'm not restoring mine either.

[stevasaurus 22,237]

Steve...nice horse. On the belt issue...I had a problem and someone had put belt grip on the pullys. When I cleaned it off with mineral spirits, the belt worked like it was supposed to. One more thing to look at, but simple.

[truckin88 104]

I saw it today and it looks better in person

[can whlvr 991]

nice,i woulnt redo it either,its perfect the way it is.

[Lane Ranger 10,513]

Keep it like it is u ntil you get some real rust on it!

- it's an original Wheel Horse!

:notworthy:

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,041]

It will stay as is. This is the first one that I bought that "qualifies" to stay original. Thanks-

[Ken B 3,116]

Excellent decision Steve. Preservation over restoration is sometimes the way to go, especially with such a nice original. One thing I've learned too appreciate thru the yrs. is that its only original once. While I like shiny paint jobs, I go ga ga over nice originals.

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Boy, I am jealous of you for that 400!!! I don't ant to know how much you paid or you might upset me further!

Penetrol, made by flood is a good way to clear coat and stop rust.

I also discovered a product called "Fluid Film" that looks very promising:

http://www.fluid-film.com/environment/index.html

I am fixing up a 1997 three wheel Cushman Haulster that was from Detroit and must have been used in the winter as it has major rust issues. I an wire brushing it and then using a rust converter product (2 coats) and then white Krylon.

I think once I have finished painting the easy to get to areas I am going to spray everything else with this fluid film stuff.

:thumbs:

[can whlvr 991]

we have used fluid film here for a while,we use it on dirt bike chains so it will not harm the environment,it also waterproofs your boots and it works but you need to recoat more often,great choise not to restore that sweety,it shows caracter and the fact that it has been taken care of this well means alot more than new paint ,jmo.