plowmaster 0 #1 Posted November 11, 2009 well i got a workbench made up in the basement by the woodstove specifically for rebuilding the 301 on them days i get snowed in. from what i gather i need to dismantle for replacing governer parts, so step one will be an overhaul manual. my question is...where does one go to get the parts and tools needed? id much rather buy from someone here on this forum, if someone here deals in kohler internals. id like to not cut any corners, id like it to be a reliable engine for many years, as im going to match it up will all my best wh parts...at the same time not taking any runners apart. thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
USHorse 41 #2 Posted November 12, 2009 In addition to answering Plowmaster's question first... can anyone suggest a good turtorial (book or video) that provides a solid foundation for the inexperienced such as me. There are tons of books but if anyone has heard positives about a specific reference, that would be helpful. Thanks :notworthy: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plowmaster 0 #3 Posted November 12, 2009 that would be helpful, if i have to dissasemble down to the crank, this would be my first time doing so. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VinsRJ 721 #4 Posted November 12, 2009 As you stated the best documentation for the tear down and rebiuld would be to get your hands on an assembly manual for your motor. I have a couple Kohler manuals but off the top of my head I do not know if one of them cover your motor. For parts I have found OPEengines.com to be a great place to get original Kohler parts. 99% of the time they are in stock and prices are the best. Small engine rebuilds look more complicated then they really are. Attention to detail, having a clean work area and some patients is all you need. For tools you will need a good inch-pound and foot-pound torque wrench. Some basic hand tools and a calculator in order to covert inch pounds to foot pound and vice-a-versa. I like to use automotive assembly lube (on bearings) and white grease (on cam lobes/tappets, valve ends.....) to pre lube during assembly. If you have never honed a cylinder do a little google research, there is a technique to it, its not hard. Valve jobs and block boring will have to be machine shop duty. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,430 #5 Posted November 12, 2009 The Kohler engines web site has a PDF file for service and owner's manual for each engine type, including the K301 as a free download. The service manual walks you through every step of tear down/ reassembly, including tolerances and torques for every component. This includes the special tools list as well, though you'll probably only need a micrometer, set of feeler gauges, dial calipers, valve spring compression tool, piston ring compressor, and a good torque wrench. If you get the manual, and have a good machine shop that does cylinder boring and if necessary- crank, cam, and valve grinding, you will have no problems whatsoever. If not, your "special tools" list will be larger... The K-series and Magnum engines are really easy to overhaul, and the end results are certainly worth the effort. Good luck! Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHC-125 4 #6 Posted November 12, 2009 Also, plowmaster dont forget to get some valve lapping compund and a valve lapper tool. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickv1957 70 #7 Posted November 12, 2009 Them old Kohlers are built simple and are easy to work on,a manual will go a long way,good luck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Electro12WH 50 #8 Posted November 13, 2009 ...... and maybe snap ring pliers? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,430 #9 Posted November 13, 2009 Also, plowmaster dont forget to get some valve lapping compund and a valve lapper tool. As I said, the machine shop capabilities will affect the number of tools you will need. Any decent shop will be able to properly lash valves and seats. My most recent rebuild- a K321, cost me $75 in shop work. That included a .020 bore, hone, valve regrind and seat lash, and a vacuum check of the valves after lashing. Also included de-greasing and washing the block afterward. Engine shops do this stuff all the time on much more complicated engines. A little single-cylinder Kohler is very simple work for a good shop. ...... and maybe snap ring pliers? I did not need them for the basic engine work. Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plowmaster 0 #10 Posted November 14, 2009 thanks for all the help, im starting quite the list of supplies. is the added displacement of boring out the cyl worth the extra expense of boring and a new piston? of course ill have to do it if its badly scored, but i hate to do it if it isnt needed. do all rebuilds get rebored? thanks again. this should be a fun project. i hope. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #11 Posted November 14, 2009 thanks for all the help, im starting quite the list of supplies. is the added displacement of boring out the cyl worth the extra expense of boring and a new piston? of course ill have to do it if its badly scored, but i hate to do it if it isnt needed. do all rebuilds get rebored? The difference in displacement will be miniscule if you only go .010 or .020", but you will have a huge improvement from the rings sealing better if your bore is worn out of spec. Normally a rebor is needed because of wear in the bore. Scoring is the result of dirty oil, a dirty air cleaner, overheating or foriegn objects. Sometimes a Kohler piston has wear on it above the top ring. I usually only rebore if the bore is worn out of spec, and only regrind a crankpin if thats worn above the limits. The Kohler manual gives you all the specs. Unless you have all the precision measuring tools, you may have to get a machineshop to measure it all up for you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites