snow blade, wear-blade

[bork 0]

I'm new to this but is this what you call the strip of metal on bottom of blade? Do you guys replace with a factory part or usually make the blade. Or are aftermarket ones available?

[Sarge 3,462]

It's normally called the wear edge, try part #2346 , for 42" units. Superceded part number 92-6034-03, $27.05 from Sohar's.

Sarge

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,059]

The one that is oem is not that thick. I took the worn one off and went to the local metal fab shop and had them match it up with a thicker and taller cutting edge that will take a lot longer to wear out then oem. They can even punch the square holes so you can use the carriage bolts. It makes the plow heavier to lift however helps it cut as it adds a little more down pressure. :scratchead:

[Sarge 3,462]

I agree, they could be a bit heavier. If it were mine , just head to the welding shops and have them cut a piece of 1018 steel . The square holes aren't that hard, especially if they have a plasma cutter.

Sarge

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,655]

Dont forget guys that when it gets worn down just flip it over and remount it. After that sides all worn down you'll need a new one.

Mike..........

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,059]

What kills me is that I have picked up several blades that have NEVER been turned over and worn through the bolts :scratchead:

[Sarge 3,462]

Amen, got one here that not only got ground through the bolts, they ground it off until there was no sign they were ever there in the first place. Must have been going the full 7mph it's entire life on good hard concrete, asphalt would have worn out ....

Sarge

[Duff 206]

Dont forget guys that when it gets worn down just flip it over and remount it. After that sides all worn down you'll need a new one.

Mike..........

Mike, does that also work for the newer blades that fit the 300-400-500 series machines? I've got the same problem Sarge has - ground off wear bar all the way through some of the bolts. I thought I had looked at my blade (in storage at the moment) and couldn't figure out how to flip it over without rewelding some stuff- or is my senile memory just playing tricks with me?

Duff :scratchead:

[W9JAB 156]

:ychain: you can get plastic one's that are better

for a nice driveway.

http://4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?Cate...&ProductID=5697

What

no

Mator Horse

here

it

comes

[bork 0]

Those look neat. Anyone use them here?

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,655]

Mike, does that also work for the newer blades that fit the 300-400-500 series machines? I've got the same problem Sarge has - ground off wear bar all the way through some of the bolts. I thought I had looked at my blade (in storage at the moment) and couldn't figure out how to flip it over without rewelding some stuff- or is my senile memory just playing tricks with me?

Duff

The flipping thing will work with any of the snowplow blades assuming that someone hasnt ground off the bolts. If the bolts and the holes where they go have been ground off I suggest you get to know yer local welder .

I think if a new piece is welded onto the bottom of the plow that you should not treat it as a new wear edge but rather a place to drill new holes to mount a wear edge to.

Mike.........

[Duff 206]

The flipping thing will work with any of the snowplow blades assuming that someone hasnt ground off the bolts. If the bolts and the holes where they go have been ground off I suggest you get to know yer local welder .

I think if a new piece is welded onto the bottom of the plow that you should not treat it as a new wear edge but rather a place to drill new holes to mount a wear edge to.

Mike.........

Thanks, Mike, and my bad for not explaining myself more clearly.

I know the wear bars flip as long as there's enough of the holes left to pass the bolts through, but what I was wondering about was if the main part of the plow (mold board?) could be flipped? What I'm driving at is, like Sarge, the bolts on my wear bar have been ground down to almost nothing which, in turn, has eaten up the part of the mold board that the wear bar bolts to. I didn't know if anyone had tried flipping the entire unit upside down to create a new surface to which to bolt the wear bar. Unfortunately mine is in storage at the moment so I'm talking from memory, but it seems when I looked at this last spring it appeared I'd have to cut off and reweld some things to make it work. I was just wondering if anyone else had run into or tried this.

Thanks!

Duff :hide:

[WHC-125 4]

You can also weld a piece of 1"x 1" angle iron(or bigger) to the bottom then bolt a scraper edge to that. I did that before and bolted a 4 inch scraper to it and it worked for years.

[linen beige 14]

Duff, If you flipped the whole mold board you would have to weld on mounting ears to mount the mold board to the frame and drill new holes. You would also have to weld on another cross channel to beef up the back edge of the mold board. You may have to also redrill the ajustment holes for the springs. I think it would be easier to just have a peice of new steel welded along the bottom edge, drill some holes and mount a new wear edge.

[Duff 206]

Thanks, Jim....that's what I had thought. Now off to find a local welder.....

Duff :scratchead:

[catman81056 3]

When I rebuilt the blade for my D160 I used a piece of 1/2" X 2" flat steel and drilled the mounting hole with a 1/2" bit. The 3/8" carriage bolts pulled up nicely with minimal help with a hammer.

[jdihc4x4 0]

Bolt 2 new ones on together. You will get over 3 times the wear of using the single edge!!!

[B-8074 19]

I had one made yesterday at my local machine shop. 3/8''x3" and had the holes punched all for 35$

[harleyjj 2]

if the bolt holes are worn off the blade just drill new ones higher up through the square channel on the backside of the blade. I did this, then had a local steel shop make me a piece of stock 1/4"x4"x42" and bolted it on total cost about fifteen bucks and a half hour of my labor. It works great

[mr.pipes 4]

They can even punch the square holes so you can use the carriage bolts.

Just curious, How is that done? Just a square punch with lots of pressure?

[can whlvr 991]

yes thats hom machine shops do it,i have made my own with a drill and a sharp triagular file

[Dresden Guy 24]

It's normally called the wear edge, try part #2346 , for 42" units. Superceded part number 92-6034-03, $27.05 from Sohar's.

Sarge

I called Sohar today and they sell the wear edge for $34 + shipping of $10. So I bought an OEM edge on FeeBay for $34.99 w/ free shipping. I am going to try a plastics supplier for some scrap UHMW or carbon fiber to make my own.

[haeffnkr 2]

if the bolt holes are worn off the blade just drill new ones higher up through the square channel on the backside of the blade. I did this, then had a local steel shop make me a piece of stock 1/4"x4"x42" and bolted it on total cost about fifteen bucks and a half hour of my labor. It works great

I am in the class of idiots who ran their plow into the bolts and BEYOND.

I noticed it was getting a little thin yesterday morning then after a monster bulldozing session trying to move 2 foot piles of solid ice/sleet and frozen snow at the end of 8 suburban driveways with my c160 auto --- I came home with the wear blade that wore off the blade and no holes left to mount up anything to.

And to add insult to my already injured tractor, my left front wheel hub is shot and the hub thing pushed over the washer and the whole wheel is just floating on the axel...no bearing in use...

I ran it till I was done....got it all done and limped home with th pieces.

Note these driveways in my subdivision are all exposed aggregate and I must have pulled off about 3/8-1/2 inch of my wear bar/bolts and then into the blade itself for the last driveway... I was amazed how much the bottom of that blade wears in that situation.

But the quoted solution above was what I was going to try to do and salvage the blade. Glad to know someone tried it and it worked. Looks like an almost better than stock solution.

wish me luck

thanks

Kevin

[Lane Ranger 10,530]

We have three 54 inch plows for our Wheel Horse 1054 tractors to use in winter.

This 2009 photo shows the back side of two of the snowplows sitting nect to each other.

If you look closely on the bottom of the plows you will see the one on the left has no bolts and nuts on it at the very bottom to hold a wear plate. The replacement plate was welded on the front.

It has been used so many years the welded plate has been replaced twice. The drilled holes were filled when repainting of the plow occurred.

The other plow on the right shows the bolt ends with nuts on them for a wear plate that can still be replaced.

:thumbs:

[haeffnkr 2]

wow lane ranger,

Looks like you need to get more wear blade material under both of them soon or you will be back in my boat... haha

Kevin