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Sparky

Seal removal tricks?

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Sparky

Any tricks to getting this brake seal out? 
 

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953 nut

use an awl to make two small pilot holes 180* apart. Use two sheet metal screws tightening them alternately and the seal will back right out.

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Sparky

False alarm! She came out with some digging/ picking and strategically spoken swear words :lol:

 

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Racinbob

Puncture the metal use a small (1/8") flat blade screwdriver and tap the corner of it at an angle about centered between the case and shaft. It doesn't take much to puncture the metal and the seal will start rotating. I usually use diagonals as the hammer. 90% of the time it will start walking itself out. If it doesn't it will be loose and is easily hooked with a pick.

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peter lena

@Sparky   packing puller ,  https://www.ebay.com/itm/336745768885?c , lets you  punch a tiny hole on seal sidewall , screw this in and pull out . also check local harbour freight , packed hundreds of tank agitator drives , regular part of CHANGE OVERS , to another product , makes quick work of  seal , pete 

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953 nut
3 hours ago, peter lena said:

 packing puller ,  https://www.ebay.com/itm/336745768885?c , lets you  punch a tiny hole on seal sidewall

Pete, that is for removing fiber packings like the ones found on steam pumps, valves and other industrial rotating shafts.

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Handy Don
9 hours ago, Sparky said:

strategically spoken swear words incantations and exhortations

Family-ized it for ya 🫢

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Sparky

Seal is installed, trans is bolted back in and for no reason at all I replaced the perfectly good shifter boot :eusa-think:.
  I want to slap a new drive belt on it. What’s the tractor supply equivalent of the WH 7473 belt?

  @squonk 

 

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squonk
18 minutes ago, Sparky said:

Seal is installed, trans is bolted back in and for me reason at all I replaced rue perfectly good shifter boot :eusa-think:.
  I want to slap a new drive belt in it. What’s the tractor supply equivalent of the WH 7473 belt?

  @squonk 

 

 

 

She's a 5L820

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Sparky

  She’s back together!

  I made a few laps around the yard. Tested all gears in both high and low range and this “untested” trans from my stash has proven to be good! This particular transmission was from a C-81 I bought in NY with a blown engine. I figured it’s only had a little 8hp engine in front of it so how bad a life could it have had :lol:. Couple loose end to take care of like get the tow hitch back on as well as the plow bracket. 
  Here’s the issue. This summer I installed a new 7473 belt and (I think) a new/used idler pulley. That belt has felt to short, meaning the clutch pedal only had to come up 1/2” and she was instantly grabbing, kinda popping wheelies. I reassembled it with a new belt from TSC and it’s doing the exact same thing. I honestly thought the other belt was the issue.

 What’s the diameter of the idler pulley? Maybe mines a wee bit to big? 
 Thoughts??


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stevasaurus

I'm going to say that the idler pulley has nothing to do with the width of your belt.  5/8" belt is correct.  You need the belt to slip on the drive pulley for the trans to work properly.  It does not need to slip on the idler pulley.  You could wire brush your drive and input pully's and wipe them with mineral spirits.  That should solve your issue.  :occasion-xmas:

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