TC10284 123 #1 Posted yesterday at 02:29 AM I have a 108-5. Turning the key to Start does nothing. I have replaced the ignition switch and the solenoid with no luck. The wiring looks factory from what I can tell. I can jump the solenoid and it starts fine. I can use the pull start and it starts fine. On the voltmeter, I show 12.5v. As soon as I turn the key to Start, it drops to 0. Battery is good. But also tried booster pack just to be sure. I suspect the pto safety switch or the neutral safety on top of the transmission. The pto safety switch I'm wondering if there is a cheaper option than $50 to $70 The part is listed here: https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-109327/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,524 #2 Posted yesterday at 03:33 AM Where are your tester leads when it drops to zero? Or are you watching an in dash voltmeter? Share your model and serial number so we can look at the correct diagram. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 13,280 #3 Posted yesterday at 09:33 AM A long shot here - but does that switch not look like a refrigerator door switch?? Perhaps a search of the actual part P/N can reveal its usage... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC10284 123 #4 Posted yesterday at 01:00 PM (edited) 9 hours ago, gwest_ca said: Where are your tester leads when it drops to zero? Or are you watching an in dash voltmeter? Share your model and serial number so we can look at the correct diagram. I haven't got to the multimeter to test yet. Just watching the tractors own voltmeter and basing off experience from 300 and 400 series. I would share the model/serial but it is faded off. I could share the engine model. Edited yesterday at 01:00 PM by TC10284 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC10284 123 #5 Posted yesterday at 01:01 PM 3 hours ago, ri702bill said: A long shot here - but does that switch not look like a refrigerator door switch?? Perhaps a search of the actual part P/N can reveal its usage... It does and that was a thought. I've searched for the part number on Google but only get Toro parts returned as results of course. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 70,122 #6 Posted yesterday at 01:06 PM 10 hours ago, TC10284 said: 108-5. Turning the key to Start does nothing. I have replaced the ignition switch and the solenoid with no luck. The wiring looks factory from what I can tell. I can jump the solenoid and it starts fine. I can use the pull start and it starts fine. On the voltmeter, I show 12.5v. As soon as I turn the key to Start, it drops to 0 This is normal, with the key in START the only connections being made in the switch are Battery and Starter. With the key switch in the OFF position, PTO in the off position, and transmission in neutral, you can test the PTO switch and the transmission switch with a multi meter. As you will see in the diagram the Tan and Purple wires of the PTO switch should have continuity and the transmission should have continuity between the two purple wires. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 70,122 #7 Posted yesterday at 01:09 PM 6 minutes ago, TC10284 said: I haven't got to the multimeter to test yet. Just watching the tractors own voltmeter and basing off experience from 300 and 400 series. An inexpensive multimeter will do the job. I would share the model/serial but it is faded off. I could share the engine model. Here is the manual for your Wheel Horse. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 70,122 #8 Posted yesterday at 01:37 PM 10 hours ago, TC10284 said: The part is listed here: https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-109327/ The part number you were searching for has been superseded but the new number is also unavailable. Rather than spending money on replacing parts until you find the bad part please test the components first. Safety switch seldom go bad unless they suffer a physical defect by being hit by something. Occasionally the wires will become disconnected and simply plugging them back in will repair the problem. If the PTO switch doesn't test as being good we can help you find a STDP (single throw double pole) switch that will work https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-commercial-98-2392/ 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 70,122 #9 Posted yesterday at 01:55 PM 4 hours ago, ri702bill said: A long shot here - but does that switch not look like a refrigerator door switch?? Perhaps a search of the actual part P/N can reveal its usage... Most refrigerator door switches are a single pole single throw normally closed with two wires going to it. The PTO switch is a double pole single throw switch with sic connectors allowing half of the switch to be N/O and half to be N/C. They may look alike on the outside but are ver4y different on the inside. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,524 #10 Posted 20 hours ago If you post all the numbers off the engine including the serial number we may be able to determine the model number. Will be like 190707-2154-01 plus the serial (1985) or 193707-0148-01 plus the serial (1986-1988) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC10284 123 #11 Posted 17 hours ago (edited) I got my multimeter out and with the wiring diagram I found out I was getting 13v all the way to the end of the wire off the transmission neutral interlock safety switch thing. The problem was in the wire coming off the other side of the solenoid terminal that runs down to the threaded stud on the mower deck. I temp connected a jumper wired from the other terminal of the solenoid to a different ground and it fired right up with the key switch. So I made another wire and ran it to another chassis ground under the seat. I don't really understand why they put the starter solenoid ground wire to the mower deck at the factory, but maybe I just don't know their reasoning. Regardless, it appears to be resolved. Thanks! Edited 17 hours ago by TC10284 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 70,122 #12 Posted 14 hours ago 3 hours ago, TC10284 said: don't really understand why they put the starter solenoid ground wire to the mower deck at the factory, but maybe I just don't know their reasoning. I'm glad that little bit of troubleshooting rot you going. to me all grounds should go to the battery negative or the frame. I totally agree with you, having a ground wire go to the deck which can be moved up and down is ridiculous . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC10284 123 #13 Posted 12 hours ago As always, you guys are very helpful and get me to a solid resolution, and I greatly appreciate that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 13,280 #14 Posted 1 hour ago 13 hours ago, 953 nut said: I totally agree with you, having a ground wire go to the deck which can be moved up and down is ridiculous . Way too much can go wrong over time there - kind of like the OE one wire circuit for C series headlights, grounding thru the hood hinge pin... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC10284 123 #15 Posted 49 minutes ago (edited) 16 minutes ago, ri702bill said: Way too much can go wrong over time there - kind of like the OE one wire circuit for C series headlights, grounding thru the hood hinge pin... Another one that got me was in the later 520s, the charging circuit running through the 9pin connector and the fuse block instead of doing it like the earlier 520s, which if I recall was coming off the regulator rectifier, then to the starter solenoid. Edited 48 minutes ago by TC10284 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
