Wheelhorse 312 8 transaxle bracket cracked

[sqrlgtr 4,083]

21 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

 

Why the need for longer bolts?  

If you are thinking of adding a plate to the transmission side of the F-Plate, that will cause the drive belt  to need to be lengthened. 

 

Whichever ever side you decide to add plate it may still require longer bolts. Ive never seen one with a plate on trans side (because of belt length), but may be a bunch of um done that way? 

[Wheelhorse3128 18]

That's what I'm thinking as the belt I have is too long anyways as I swapped the pulley to get more speed and the belt I got was too long so I put a idler pulley on that was supposed to be temporary while i got a shorter belt but it works well so I left it on

[sqrlgtr 4,083]

Dont forget to allow for the longer wheelbase if u go with plate between trans and frame, think shifter location and such.

[Wheelhorse3128 18]

3 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said:

Dont forget to allow for the longer wheelbase if u go with plate between trans and frame, think shifter location and such.

Will probably just add a 5mm thick plate so will be able to move stuff back 5 mm I think

[Handy Don 17,549]

1 hour ago, Wheelhorse3128 said:

Will probably just add a 5mm thick plate so will be able to move stuff back 5 mm I think

I grooved and then welded the cracks from both sides but added the reinforcement plate on the forward side of the F-plate because I didn’t want to consider any drive train mods. Looking back, I’d have also drilled the reinforcement plate to accommodate a couple of plug welds in the middle of the plate. 

When welding, be sure to use good sequencing and cooling practices to avoid overheating any small area and causing either the F-plate or the reinforcement to warp. 

Edited 21 hours ago by Handy Don

[Ed Kennell 47,556]

2 hours ago, Wheelhorse3128 said:

Will probably just add a 5mm thick plate so will be able to move stuff back 5 mm I think

5 mm should not affect the belt length, but may require a motion control linkage adjustment.

 

OOps, just saw it's an 8 speed.  No linkage.

Edited 20 hours ago by Ed Kennell

[Wheelhorse3128 18]

I will actually put the plate on the inside like other pictures that have been put on here

Edited 16 hours ago by Wheelhorse3128

[ri702bill 13,170]

6 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

 

Why the need for longer bolts?  

If you are thinking of adding a plate to the transmission side of the F-Plate, that will cause the drive belt  to need to be lengthened. 

 

I disagree - the plate goes on the inside - not between the frame & unidrive. Longer 3/8-16 UNC fasteners are needed - length TBD by the plate thickness.

[James Wright 3]

The 3/8-16 size is straightforward once you have a thread gauge or just test nuts at a hardware store—the 3/8 is the shaft diameter and 16 is threads per inch. On the longer-bolt question, that's worth thinking through first: if the plan is a reinforcement plate between the transaxle and F-plate, the pulley moves rearward and the drive belt may no longer fit. Measuring the current belt and checking pulley alignment before buying hardware would save a second trip.

[ebinmaine 80,888]

1 hour ago, Wheelhorse3128 said:

I will actually put the plate on the inside like other pictures that have been put on here

 

And weld the existing cracks?

[Wheelhorse3128 18]

1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

 

And weld the existing cracks?

👍Yes and I will put dome dort of bracing somwhere

[sqrlgtr 4,083]

This is a pic I pulled from a thread @ebinmaine had a while back and this is what my 520's plates' looks like and the way they came from factory. Just to give you an idea maybe? I always thought doubling up the side triangle pieces would really help also and still have that original look to it.

[ebinmaine 80,888]

Just now, sqrlgtr said:

This is a pic I pulled from a thread @ebinmaine had a while back and this is what my 520's plates' looks like and the way they came from factory. Just to give you an idea maybe? I always thought doubling up the side triangle pieces would really help also and still have that original look to it.

 

 

Agreed.  

This particular frame will be used for the new "C160-8 Super Heavy Duty" chassis for the Wally Digger Backhoe.  

 

On a stock frame for my own C160-8 Cinnamon Horse I added a piece of angle iron to each side. 

 

 

 

[Wheelhorse3128 18]

I think I will add a thick plate like in that picture and double up the sides as I'm going to mount a front loader subframe on it.

[ebinmaine 80,888]

14 minutes ago, Wheelhorse3128 said:

I think I will add a thick plate like in that picture and double up the sides as I'm going to mount a front loader subframe on it.

 

 

Definitely a good idea 

[ri702bill 13,170]

11 hours ago, Wheelhorse3128 said:

I think I will add a thick plate like in that picture and double up the sides as I'm going to mount a front loader subframe on it.

Adding a loader takes you into uncharted waters, so to speak, when it comes to the design of the OE frame. You are adding weight and localized stress that were most likely not accoumted for. Take your time - fix it once, fix it right... My

Edited 4 hours ago by ri702bill

[953 nut 69,739]

Most sub-frames for loaders are measured for the factory frame dimensions so the inside plate is the way to go. The subframe should attach to the frame near the front as well as the rear axle. Mine has two pieces, one connects to the front of the frame behind the front axle and rear axle and the other half is bolted to the front of the frame.

The "F Plate" on the GT-14 is unlike those on most other Wheel Horses