sqrlgtr 4,077 #26 Posted 8 hours ago 21 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said: Why the need for longer bolts? If you are thinking of adding a plate to the transmission side of the F-Plate, that will cause the drive belt to need to be lengthened. Whichever ever side you decide to add plate it may still require longer bolts. Ive never seen one with a plate on trans side (because of belt length), but may be a bunch of um done that way? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse3128 13 #27 Posted 8 hours ago That's what I'm thinking as the belt I have is too long anyways as I swapped the pulley to get more speed and the belt I got was too long so I put a idler pulley on that was supposed to be temporary while i got a shorter belt but it works well so I left it on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 4,077 #28 Posted 8 hours ago Dont forget to allow for the longer wheelbase if u go with plate between trans and frame, think shifter location and such. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse3128 13 #29 Posted 8 hours ago 3 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said: Dont forget to allow for the longer wheelbase if u go with plate between trans and frame, think shifter location and such. Will probably just add a 5mm thick plate so will be able to move stuff back 5 mm I think 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 17,544 #30 Posted 7 hours ago (edited) 1 hour ago, Wheelhorse3128 said: Will probably just add a 5mm thick plate so will be able to move stuff back 5 mm I think I grooved and then welded the cracks from both sides but added the reinforcement plate on the forward side of the F-plate because I didn’t want to consider any drive train mods. Looking back, I’d have also drilled the reinforcement plate to accommodate a couple of plug welds in the middle of the plate. When welding, be sure to use good sequencing and cooling practices to avoid overheating any small area and causing either the F-plate or the reinforcement to warp. Edited 6 hours ago by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 47,551 #31 Posted 6 hours ago (edited) 2 hours ago, Wheelhorse3128 said: Will probably just add a 5mm thick plate so will be able to move stuff back 5 mm I think 5 mm should not affect the belt length, but may require a motion control linkage adjustment. OOps, just saw it's an 8 speed. No linkage. Edited 6 hours ago by Ed Kennell 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse3128 13 #32 Posted 3 hours ago (edited) I will actually put the plate on the inside like other pictures that have been put on here Edited 2 hours ago by Wheelhorse3128 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 13,162 #33 Posted 2 hours ago 6 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: Why the need for longer bolts? If you are thinking of adding a plate to the transmission side of the F-Plate, that will cause the drive belt to need to be lengthened. I disagree - the plate goes on the inside - not between the frame & unidrive. Longer 3/8-16 UNC fasteners are needed - length TBD by the plate thickness. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James Wright 2 #34 Posted 1 hour ago The 3/8-16 size is straightforward once you have a thread gauge or just test nuts at a hardware store—the 3/8 is the shaft diameter and 16 is threads per inch. On the longer-bolt question, that's worth thinking through first: if the plan is a reinforcement plate between the transaxle and F-plate, the pulley moves rearward and the drive belt may no longer fit. Measuring the current belt and checking pulley alignment before buying hardware would save a second trip. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 80,876 #35 Posted 1 hour ago 1 hour ago, Wheelhorse3128 said: I will actually put the plate on the inside like other pictures that have been put on here And weld the existing cracks? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse3128 13 #36 Posted 1 hour ago 1 minute ago, ebinmaine said: And weld the existing cracks? 👍Yes and I will put dome dort of bracing somwhere 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 4,077 #37 Posted 1 hour ago This is a pic I pulled from a thread @ebinmaine had a while back and this is what my 520's plates' looks like and the way they came from factory. Just to give you an idea maybe? I always thought doubling up the side triangle pieces would really help also and still have that original look to it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 80,876 #38 Posted 1 hour ago Just now, sqrlgtr said: This is a pic I pulled from a thread @ebinmaine had a while back and this is what my 520's plates' looks like and the way they came from factory. Just to give you an idea maybe? I always thought doubling up the side triangle pieces would really help also and still have that original look to it. Agreed. This particular frame will be used for the new "C160-8 Super Heavy Duty" chassis for the Wally Digger Backhoe. On a stock frame for my own C160-8 Cinnamon Horse I added a piece of angle iron to each side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse3128 13 #39 Posted 1 hour ago I think I will add a thick plate like in that picture and double up the sides as I'm going to mount a front loader subframe on it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 80,876 #40 Posted 1 hour ago 14 minutes ago, Wheelhorse3128 said: I think I will add a thick plate like in that picture and double up the sides as I'm going to mount a front loader subframe on it. Definitely a good idea Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
