1045 with shifting issues

[wheelhorsewilly 1]

So this 1054 shifts good in 1st and 2nd but sometimes gets stuck in 3rd. The shifter feels a bit wobbly. Is this truly a transmission issue with a rebuild or gear replacement needed? Thank for any info.

Edited 15 hours ago by wheelhorsewilly
Typo

[oliver2-44 11,708]

 

Sounds more like an issue with the shift forks.

They are located at the top of the transmission and are the first thing to get a little rusty if the shifter rubber boot is damaged/missing allowing water to get in there.

Have you checked the transmission fluid to see if it is milky looking from water.

Also with the shifter feeling woobly, that suggest the dog point set screw that holds the shifter might need to be tightened up a little.

if its not holding the shifter ball in the right place that might affect shifting.

After adjusting the dog point set screw, if its still hard to shift, I would fill the transmission the rest of the way brim full with diesel and work the shifter like a 100 time to work any rust off them.  

[953 nut 68,597]

Two things come to mind. Could be the dogpoint screw (see thread attached below) or it could be the oil is too heavy. Early Wheel Horse transmissions should have 40W rather than 90 W oil because the shift rails didn't have vents milled into their shafts and could hydraulically lock.

 

[ri702bill 12,850]

16 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Early Wheel Horse transmissions should have 40W rather than 90 W oil because the shift rails didn't have vents milled into their shafts and could hydraulically lock.

Correct. WH started using the revised rail with the flats to reduce "stiction" in 1965 - the year of your tractor... Early models were prone to get "stuck" in two gears at the same time. IF, by chance your Unidrive got swapped with an early unit, no vent flats.

Sixty years of use & repairs later - perhaps the round nose diameter of the full dog piont 1/4-20 screw is worn way down to a point of eminent failure?? Pull it and inspect it for wear.

I recomend  draining the Unidrive to see what comes out - other than gear oil. A lot of water and milky tan fluid mix is common when the shift boot is compromised. Flush with 2-3 quarts of Diesel fuel, running the transmission thru all gears. Drain & refill with fresh 75-90 wt.

 

Edited Monday at 11:49 PM by ri702bill

[953 nut 68,597]

11 hours ago, ri702bill said:

Drain & refill with fresh 75-90 wt.     40W

 

11 hours ago, ri702bill said:

WH started using the revised rail with the flats to reduce "stiction" in 1965 - the year of your tractor.

My 1055 with a serial number about mid-way of the recorded serial number list had the full round shift rails, don't know when the change was made at the factory. I did change mine over while it was apart for bearings.

Edited 16 hours ago by 953 nut

[702854boy 1,110]

I could take it off your hands for you and that would fix your problem

[wheelhorsewilly 1]

Sorry everyone I just checked the message board. I had a typo it is not a 1045 it's a 1054

[953 nut 68,597]

             Being a 1054 you will need to remove the transmission to get at the dog point screw. 

[wheelhorsewilly 1]

Hope this tractor was worth the $500 I paid for 😆 I'm starting to wonder now 😂 

[Pullstart 71,127]

@953 nut, what say you?  Ever had a bad shifter lever on these types, where the roll pin on the donut breaks and the shifting becomes sloppy?

[953 nut 68,597]

36 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

@953 nut, what say you?  Ever had a bad shifter lever on these types, where the roll pin on the donut breaks and the shifting becomes sloppy?

No, I did buy a butchered parts 1054 that had a transaxle full of water because someone had cut the seat area out to remove the gas tank then left it out in the rain. The ball end that goes into the shift forks was right at the water line and snapped off when I went to shift it.