wheelhorsewilly 0 #1 Posted 18 hours ago (edited) So this 1054 shifts good in 1st and 2nd but sometimes gets stuck in 3rd. The shifter feels a bit wobbly. Is this truly a transmission issue with a rebuild or gear replacement needed? Thank for any info. Edited 4 hours ago by wheelhorsewilly Typo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 11,708 #2 Posted 17 hours ago Sounds more like an issue with the shift forks. They are located at the top of the transmission and are the first thing to get a little rusty if the shifter rubber boot is damaged/missing allowing water to get in there. Have you checked the transmission fluid to see if it is milky looking from water. Also with the shifter feeling woobly, that suggest the dog point set screw that holds the shifter might need to be tightened up a little. if its not holding the shifter ball in the right place that might affect shifting. After adjusting the dog point set screw, if its still hard to shift, I would fill the transmission the rest of the way brim full with diesel and work the shifter like a 100 time to work any rust off them. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 68,588 #3 Posted 17 hours ago Two things come to mind. Could be the dogpoint screw (see thread attached below) or it could be the oil is too heavy. Early Wheel Horse transmissions should have 40W rather than 90 W oil because the shift rails didn't have vents milled into their shafts and could hydraulically lock. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 12,841 #4 Posted 17 hours ago (edited) 16 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Early Wheel Horse transmissions should have 40W rather than 90 W oil because the shift rails didn't have vents milled into their shafts and could hydraulically lock. Correct. WH started using the revised rail with the flats to reduce "stiction" in 1965 - the year of your tractor... Early models were prone to get "stuck" in two gears at the same time. IF, by chance your Unidrive got swapped with an early unit, no vent flats. Sixty years of use & repairs later - perhaps the round nose diameter of the full dog piont 1/4-20 screw is worn way down to a point of eminent failure?? Pull it and inspect it for wear. I recomend draining the Unidrive to see what comes out - other than gear oil. A lot of water and milky tan fluid mix is common when the shift boot is compromised. Flush with 2-3 quarts of Diesel fuel, running the transmission thru all gears. Drain & refill with fresh 75-90 wt. Edited 17 hours ago by ri702bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 68,588 #5 Posted 17 hours ago (edited) 11 hours ago, ri702bill said: Drain & refill with fresh 75-90 wt. 40W 11 hours ago, ri702bill said: WH started using the revised rail with the flats to reduce "stiction" in 1965 - the year of your tractor. My 1055 with a serial number about mid-way of the recorded serial number list had the full round shift rails, don't know when the change was made at the factory. I did change mine over while it was apart for bearings. Edited 5 hours ago by 953 nut 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 1,109 #6 Posted 15 hours ago I could take it off your hands for you and that would fix your problem 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelhorsewilly 0 #7 Posted 4 hours ago Sorry everyone I just checked the message board. I had a typo it is not a 1045 it's a 1054 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 68,588 #8 Posted 4 hours ago Being a 1054 you will need to remove the transmission to get at the dog point screw. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelhorsewilly 0 #9 Posted 3 hours ago Hope this tractor was worth the $500 I paid for 😆 I'm starting to wonder now 😂 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
