1961 Suburban 551 Rescue

[Dave D. 112]

Getting up an order of 94830A130 flex top lock nuts for the differential.

Fall seems like a good time to go into the transmission.

Watching the tranny rebuild videos now. 

 

Dave

 

 

[Dave D. 112]

A little work this evening. Worked on the steering wheel. Bed liner all stripped off. More PC-7 and sanded. Now it's primed in and just need spot putty in a few places.

 

Now primed in. Just a little more finessing, then painting.

 

Dave

[wallfish 20,724]

VERY nice!  Steering wheel restoration like that takes a lot of work and time and it looks real nice..

Since you are going through all that work to make it perfect, you should trim off, or grind off that protruding shaft above the collar in the center of the wheel before painting it. I've never seen a factory steering wheel with the 3/4" shaft protruding above that collar. They set them ALL flat 

Just  my 

[Dave D. 112]

Worked on the hood today. Coated it with Penetrol. Starting to look better.

Got to add some metal where they cut it to get the hood off, but looking better.

Making progress.

 

Dave

[Dave D. 112]

Worked some this week on the 551 among other projects.

Steering wheel is done.

More questions on this tractor.

The steering bushings seem rusted and worn out. Do you just Cuse a hone and clean them up?

Is there a fix? Can you install a sleeve? The top support bearing is really rusty and there are some grooves in the steering shaft where you grease it.

Also, it looks as if someone cut the shaft where the brake and clutch pedals are attached.

 Will I need to re-weld this shaft? The collar holds them, although I don't think it would be too strong.

 

Getting ready to tear into the tranny.

Thanks for all the info so far.

 

Dave

 

 

[702854boy 1,191]

Very well done on that steering wheel

[Dave D. 112]

Added on to the shop last Fall. Got the wood shop and one side is my wife's side for doing crafts.

She would be working on her stuff, and I'd be sanding the steering wheel. She would say, "You still sanding on that steering wheel?" Now she says, "That looks Good!" I spent a lot of hours making it round again. Ended up using SEM Color Coat Satin Black flexible paint on the steering wheel. Also used Rustoleum filler primer and Rustoleum adhesion promoter, so I hope the paint will stay on the steering wheel. Trying to get something that will last. Cleaning off an old table to start on the transmission. Going to make a stand with 4X4 leftovers to hold the transmission for disassembly. Got to get a replacement pump for my parts washer. I'm making good progress. The old Ariens tractor is back together, and I need to change the transmission oil and filter and fix the wiring. Then I can move that tractor out and work on this one. For now, I'll just take the transmission out and leave the tractor in the shipping container. Spending a lot of time researching old posts and getting information. Project is coming along.

 

y

This is the upper steering bearing. It really looks rusty. Wondering if I need to sleeve it, or just hone it out.

 

Dave

 

 

[Handy Don 17,634]

That looks like surface rust to me, though there is no certainty until you start to remove it. Being not-to-aggessive is a good way to start: fine emory paper or a fine/soft drill-mounted wire brush. Let what you find drive your next steps. 

If the socket hadn’t been kept lubed, though, then there might be wear. If you have the tooling for drilling out and sleeving, that is surely possible (remember to reopen the zerk opening). Your tolerance of wear and steering play once all is cleaned up will drive the decision. Do remember that this was NEVER a “precision” machine . 

[Dave D. 112]

That's what I was thinking. Just clean it up and see how the steering works.

I don't think that rod that holds the brake and clutch pedal should be cut. Thinking it will need welding.

 

Dave

[Handy Don 17,634]

2 hours ago, Dave D. said:

I don't think that rod that holds the brake and clutch pedal should be cut

Members like @rmaynard or @wallfish have spent a lot of time with pre-61 models and will have informed opinions. Only times I’ve touched one was riding around the Big Show on an RJ (or was it a Suburban?) borrowed from another member! 😁

[wallfish 20,724]

21 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I don't think that rod that holds the brake and clutch pedal should be cut

I'm not sure what we're talking about here. Pic please? The rod link from the pedal to the clutch/brake on a 551 should be threaded and adjustable with a trunion on it. 1960 models were not adjustable and just bent rods

There aren't very many rods that should be cut.

[Dave D. 112]

The footrest comes off as shown in this picture. The footrest is on the front tire, and the brake/clutch pedal is still on the tractor. Can't see how this would be very strong or intentional. It fits in there fine, but you can pull it out.

Kind of dark in there, I'll have to get a better pic.

 

Dave

[wallfish 20,724]

15 minutes ago, Dave D. said:

The footrest comes off as shown in this picture. The footrest is on the front tire, and the brake/clutch pedal is still on the tractor. Can't see how this would be very strong or intentional. It fits in there fine, but you can pull it out.

Kind of dark in there, I'll have to get a better pic.

 

Dave

Ah, I thought it was about the link from the pedal to the brake. That 3/4" foot peg rod can be replaced as a whole rod or 1/2 of the length can be welded in the middle of the frame rails and to the left rail. 

Someone couldn't get that foot rest off and chose the wrong way to do it ! 

[Dave D. 112]

Great idea. Welding it in the center of the frame would be way easier to do.

 

Great advice,

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

[Dave D. 112]

Would you use 3/4 in cold rolled steel to replace the rod?

 

Dave

[oliver2-44 11,791]

Yes I replaced one with 3/4” cold roll rod