5151 13 #1 Posted 5 hours ago Do any of you do house calls? LOL I can start it by jumping solenoid to bat. Can not start with key. I tried. New after market ignition switch and solenoid. And coil (mice chew). Jumping clutch safety switch two of three prongs. (2 wires to switch). Jumping seat switch. Jumping amp gauge. Cleaning grounds. Reversing spade connectors on solenoid. I have not yet messed with. Fuse block. PTO safety switch. Oil safety switch. Any switches I missed? A pic of proper solenoid setup? Any thoughts appreciated. Just because that's how it was don't make it right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 68,231 #2 Posted 4 hours ago Not all wheel Horses are wired alike and they don't all use the same ignition switch. What is the model number of your 310? Once we have the model number we can pull up the correct information for you. Thee model number is on a tag located under the seat on the left side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
5151 13 #3 Posted 4 hours ago (edited) 3110k801 w-h 13508 0109 Original owner Arnold That's all I have there. I did find something hokie with fuses. New ones are on the way. 25Amp. I might have the solenoid tabs bass ackwards. Is that possable? No markings on solenoid. Edited 4 hours ago by 5151 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 68,231 #4 Posted 4 hours ago 15 minutes ago, 5151 said: I might have the solenoid tabs bass ackwards. Is that possable? No markings on solenoid. Solenoids are not polarity sensitive, either way is fine. We just went through a very similar problem with anot5her member here. I am giving you a link to that thread as well ad the wiring manual for your 310-8, take a close look at the START page (7-70) as yours doesn't have the idiot lights and extra wires that the 314 has. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
5151 13 #5 Posted 2 hours ago "Not polarity sensitive" This reassures me thanks. One spade takes 1 wire and other 2. I WILL get to those other 2 reads thanks. That clutch switch, the belt is long AND/OR the pedal needs adjusted. Going to pull the fuse block to clean and inspect. So if they blow I can isolate. Two old ones bad. This WH has way more hours than my other. We'll call it experience and patina. I'll update. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 68,231 #6 Posted 1 hour ago 3 hours ago, 5151 said: New after market ignition switch and solenoid. And coil (mice chew). Rereading your first post now that we know the model number. Did you replace the ignition switch with a 103991 switch? Jumping clutch safety switch two of three prongs. (2 wires to switch).No harm done there Jumping seat switch. Seat switch is in the ignition system kill circuit. It has nothing to do with the starter but with a jumper in place it will prevent the magneto from producing a spark IF the PTO is in the engaged (forward) position Jumping amp gauge. Your 310 came with a volt meter, not an amp meter unless it was added by a previous owner. No harm done IF it is an AMP Meter, if it is a volt meter you may have blown the 15 amp fuse. Cleaning grounds. Reversing spade connectors on solenoid. I have not yet messed with. Fuse block. corrosion in the fuse holders can be a problem area. PTO safety switch. Oil safety switch. If the oil level is low the starter will not activate with the key. Presuming your oil level is good to test the low oil switch there is a five terminal connector behind the engine, unplug it and see if the starter will turn over from the key. If the engine starts you will need to use the choke to stop it because the kill wire is also in that plug. Hope this helps. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
