nyquil junkie 318 #1 Posted Thursday at 09:32 PM (edited) As the title sez... they leak, badly. Assuming the bearings are not shot (knock wood) are these seals just simple oil seals you pry out and tap new ones in, or is there some horrid complication I'm doomed to run into here? Are they just standard off the shelf seals or, some obscure unavailable 1960's part for a 3 speed trans? Edited Thursday at 09:33 PM by nyquil junkie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 12,486 #2 Posted Thursday at 09:58 PM (edited) Look in the Transmissions section for the Seal P/N interchange list & the tutorial on doing the R&R. SKF seals are readily available. It is easier if the Unidrive is out of the tractor, but not absolutely necessary. Getting the hubs off may be an adventure though... Edited Friday at 09:39 AM by ri702bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 47,410 #3 Posted Thursday at 10:08 PM If you decide to remove the trans, get the hubs off first to hold the trans still. 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 79,711 #4 Posted Thursday at 10:28 PM 28 minutes ago, ri702bill said: Getting the hubs off may be an adventure though... DO NOT USE A STANDARD THREE JAW PULLER. DO NOT USE A STANDARD THREE JAW PULLER. DO NOT USE A STANDARD THREE JAW PULLER. I set that text three times. One for each jaw that you shall not use. An old hub is a good puller. There are good threads that show good pullers. 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 67,441 #5 Posted Thursday at 11:33 PM 1 hour ago, squonk said: If you decide to remove the trans, get the hubs off first to hold the trans still. And the 3/4" hitch pin. 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,912 #6 Posted Thursday at 11:49 PM Be super careful prying the seal out, one good nick on the axle will have you doing more work. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ineedanother 2,618 #7 Posted Friday at 02:35 AM Leaky seals are a hub removal's best friend They tend to come off relatively easily as compared to dry ones. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 318 #8 Posted Saturday at 02:02 AM I jacked it up to give it a pre-repair check... both hubs are loose on the axles, or the bearings are shot... or the shafts or hubs are wollered out... I dunno. I'll know more when I pull them off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,945 #9 Posted Saturday at 12:29 PM @nyquil junkie 2 major assists . a screw in . PACKING PULLER , punch in tiny hole in seal metal side wall , screw in pull out seal , replace , also lubricate rubber to axel point it insure smooth operation . like a FLANGE PULLER , TO PULL HUBS , HAVE A SMALL HYDRAULIC RAM ? that will be solid strength against itself , end of axel to inner hub to axel , KROIL PENETRANT , like butter . actually easy with the right set up , like penetrating oil and light sand paper , for axel areas clean up , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 79,711 #10 Posted Saturday at 03:10 PM 2 hours ago, peter lena said: @nyquil junkie 2 major assists . a screw in . PACKING PULLER , punch in tiny hole in seal metal side wall , screw in pull out seal , replace , also lubricate rubber to axel point it insure smooth operation . like a FLANGE PULLER , TO PULL HUBS , HAVE A SMALL HYDRAULIC RAM ? that will be solid strength against itself , end of axel to inner hub to axel , KROIL PENETRANT , like butter . actually easy with the right set up , like penetrating oil and light sand paper , for axel areas clean up , pete All very good ideas. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 17,429 #11 Posted Saturday at 04:04 PM This is my hub puller. Works well. Cheep to make. Plenty of variations have been nade. 3 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 318 #12 Posted 10 hours ago Well.. after backing out the set screw the hubs fell off... more or less. The hubs are beat up and wallowed out from the hub flopping around, which I didnt notice for apparently years. The keyway beat the hub and the axle slots up pretty bad as the hub got more loose. So the hubs are toast, and the axle keyway slot is a little larger than it should be. Maybe someday I'll trip over a set of old hubs not quite so beat and maybe.... yeah maybe. Until then, its getting sat on some blocks and parts I need elsewhere are getting used. Too bad. This one did more work and more miles than WH probably designed it to do. Maybe someday, It'll get repaired and put back to work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 79,711 #13 Posted 8 hours ago 1 hour ago, nyquil junkie said: back to work Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA has clamp on hubs. Or... a complete transmission transplant. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 318 #14 Posted 1 hour ago I found a couple hubs in my junk boxes... didn't know I had them. I put in new keys, and the hubs are now pretty snug. Good enough. I removed the outer tires on the back, and put some oil in the case.... it'll leak out eventually but, who cares. I'll add some now and then. Its good enough to tote the little wagon around, take feed to the cows or go inspect/fix the fences. When I i get some time I'll find the seals and put a set in. Its better than getting set under a tree to rot. I need a bigger machine w duals to crawl up into the high rough fence lines, which is what I'm going to slap together from this 520HC roller I drug home the other day. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ineedanother 2,618 #15 Posted 1 hour ago Duals are hard on axles and bearings unless the terrain is smooth. The outer wheels just have too much leverage on the axles. Sometimes it's just better to go with aggressive over-sized tires and chains. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites