Pullstart 70,484 #26 Posted yesterday at 03:29 PM It’s supposed to be 95 or hotter today. The shop just barely fits the new trailer! The shop A/C is on for a bit to bring the temps down to something a bit more comfortable. Rubber flooring and e-track is all here, that’s exciting! 2 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 70,484 #27 Posted yesterday at 04:47 PM I have the main floor piece rough cut. I need to trim the front corners to a respectable lip. Then find some adhesive laying around and slap it down. 1 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 70,484 #28 Posted yesterday at 04:49 PM I am very thankful for the shop to keep me comfy. It’s a scorcher out and it’s not even the high for the day. Pool was at 92 last I checked by the way. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 79,550 #29 Posted yesterday at 05:41 PM 51 minutes ago, Pullstart said: thankful for the shop to keep me comfy Absolute game changer. I can no longer tolerate the heat and humidity. My workshop has AC. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 70,484 #30 Posted yesterday at 08:21 PM I use 2 28oz tubes of HD adhesive, and the floor is glued in on bottom. I still need to cut the door opening and lay some metal over the side flaps. The back edge is still long. I may leave it a bit long, so any wet tires coming in won’t allow moisture at the edge. Let the door press seal it down, if you will. The e-track is 57 lbs and 5’ long. I figured it would work well to press the bubbles out, so I worked it front to rear a few times. I like the outcome. 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 13,165 #31 Posted yesterday at 09:30 PM Before cutting that, how about leaving it for like a baseboard. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 70,484 #32 Posted 23 hours ago 57 minutes ago, rjg854 said: Before cutting that, how about leaving it for like a baseboard. Tis my plan, kind of. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 70,484 #33 Posted 10 hours ago 14 hours ago, rjg854 said: Before cutting that, how about leaving it for like a baseboard. 13 hours ago, Pullstart said: Tis my plan, kind of. More explanation is probably helpful. My idea is to run this up the side and staple it in place, a little glue near the cuts to make a better seal of course. I’ll run aluminum sheet along the walls and over the rubber. In my mind, it’s like building a shower pan. I don’t intend for it to be water proof, but withstand a strategic wash if needed. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 70,484 #34 Posted 7 hours ago I got the side door cut in. I left the rubber a bit long, so it can shed water of course. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 70,484 #35 Posted 7 hours ago On to the back door, and little ramp. I think I was awake half the night wondering how this would work. Solid piece of rubber over the hinge set? A scrap piece and a few screws proved that it would not last very long. One fold and the rubber already had stress marks. It would be only a matter of time before it snapped and defeated the purpose. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 70,484 #36 Posted 7 hours ago I took some measurements to verify the hinge was indeed centered, then pulled the small ramp off. Funny tid bit, that’s enough weight loss for the door to begin closing itself! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 70,484 #37 Posted 7 hours ago Of course edges are left long at this time. I’ll trim it down as needed. I rolled out some rubber and glued the bottom edge in place. I trimmed the lift cable brackets out as close as I could. Then, I reinstalled the hinge. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 70,484 #38 Posted 7 hours ago I rolled out the entire door, cut it to (excessive) length, and rolled it back down. My glue pattern kind of duplicates the idea of an ag tire. I figured a diagonal grip to the wood would ensure maximum grip to a glued surface at any given time. Time will tell if that is a good idea. Like the trailer floor, I used the e-track box to roll out the bubbles and slack. A few passes center, left, right, repeat, and it seemed to flatten out well. I think the ramp worked out better than the trailer floor, but it needs to hold things by itself too. The floor will have e-track to secure it also. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike'sHorseBarn 3,590 #39 Posted 7 hours ago Dang it Kevin, you're giving me trailer fever! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 70,484 #40 Posted 7 hours ago 10 minutes ago, Mike'sHorseBarn said: Dang it Kevin, you're giving me trailer fever! Momma says I can’t haul with it until it’s done! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 70,484 #41 Posted 2 hours ago I trimmed the back edge of the floor rubber and trimmed and fastened the ramp rubber. The door closes and opens well! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 70,484 #42 Posted 2 hours ago I ordered a few hundred self tapping stainless screws to install the E-track. I think I have settled on the spacing for the floor pieces. I believe this spacing will work well for any sized GT I have, motorcycles or even a small car. I’ll run the full 16’ for these, starting as close to the back door as possible. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 70,484 #43 Posted 1 hour ago The last piece to cover is the ramp flapper. I cut out a piece of rubber and squared it up real good. I glued the face of the rubber and stuck the wood on, maneuvering it around a bit. I then added the e-track weight kits and will let it cure up for a day or so. I’ve got a 3/4” square aluminum tube that I will use as a lock seam for the two loose pieces of rubber. I drilled 17 holes in the tubing and chamfered them for some coarse construction screws to hold it down. Glued of course! It’ll be about 4” back from the edge so it can support the ramp but not elevate it too much. Time will tell if I will need to add a different skid plate at the immediate edge. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites