856 Moved ignition switch now not turn over

[FLtractor 184]

Afternoon,

 

My 856 started ran drive on Sunday… since then I moved the ignition to a new dash hole so it’s not loose.. raised tank up. Added inline fuel shutoff valve.. added proper fuel hose clamps.. attached air filter, checked engine oil level and smell. Went to start it up today and cranked briefly then didn’t even wanna turn over just sounded like a fart of air from the starter. I checked connections.. positive cable at ignition somewhat loose so I tightened it up.. didn’t fix it. Battery fully charged. Could these cables corrison fraying be the issue that  Started other day now not at all. 

Edited 4 hours ago by FLtractor

[702854boy 913]

I'd start with checking all your grounds and redoing the battery cables. That positive cable looks like it needed replaced 20 years ago.

[pfrederi 20,777]

Ar least take the wires off the S/G and clean them up.  are you using teh original heavy duty switch with 3 terminals ...Make sure you check them for tightness

[squonk 47,142]

Those cables are junk. A starter gen takes about 60 amps to start turning the engine. And you need clean grounds including where the gen and gen bracket mounts. 

[Thegearhead0324 1,605]

Connectors must be clean clean clean. Running and making new cables/wires would be my first choice, moving the ignition switch maybe moved a wire that is internally corroded. I remember about 7 or so years ago, I put an old Ford style solenoid hidden under my shifter plate, so the switch wouldn’t take all the juice while starting the starter/generator. I honestly forgot how I wired it since it’s been years but works. 

[FLtractor 184]

1 hour ago, 702854boy said:

I'd start with checking all your grounds and redoing the battery cables. That positive cable looks like it needed replaced 20 years ago.

Any recommendation on which brand or replacement battery cables I should get? I’ll just get new ones

[pfrederi 20,777]

Please post a picture of the back of your ignition switch.  For cables 6ga is adequate (4 ga better) but you need small terminal lugs 1/4"

[FLtractor 184]

7 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Please post a picture of the back of your ignition switch.  For cables 6ga is adequate (4 ga better) but you need small terminal lugs 1/4"

 

[pfrederi 20,777]

You need 1/4" or 5/16 terminal lugs. They can be a bit harder to find...but if you try to use the more common 3/8 you have to be very careful about putting then on the ignition switch that they do not touch something other than the terminal  and you will need a couple washers so the bolt head does not slip through.

[rmaynard 17,376]

I can't see all the wires, but if it is wired like it shows on the diagram below, everything should be fine,

 

[Thegearhead0324 1,605]

1 hour ago, FLtractor said:

Any recommendation on which brand or replacement battery cables I should get? I’ll just get new ones

I just went to the local parts store for different length cables, although I had to cut and crimp my own ends anyways, no brand specific. 

[FLtractor 184]

19 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

I can't see all the wires, but if it is wired like it shows on the diagram below, everything should be fine,

 

What are these 2 triangle arrows representing?

[Thegearhead0324 1,605]

2 minutes ago, FLtractor said:

What are these 2 triangle arrows representing?

those are the grounds. 

[rmaynard 17,376]

This is the back of my 857. B - Battery   I - Ignition   S - Starter   G- Generator light   IGN - to ignition coil

 

 

 

[rmaynard 17,376]

Ground

[FLtractor 184]

17 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

This is the back of my 857. B - Battery   I - Ignition   S - Starter   G- Generator light   IGN - to ignition coil

 

 

 

What does the G stand for on your 2 cables here?

[FLtractor 184]

After calling 3 local hardware stores.. none have 4 gauge with 1/4 inch. 
so I found these online. 
seems to be exactly what I need to make it safest and easiest 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,304]

You can check a cable by connecting voltmeter leads to each terminal on the ends of the cable being tested or the stud/screw mounting the terminals . (+) on one end and (-) on the other terminal. Turn the circuit on and see if you get a voltage reading. You may need to reverse the leads if using an analog voltmeter.

If the cable and it's connections to the terminals crimped or soldered on the ends are in good shape - no voltage reading.

If the cable or it's end terminals are compromised some of the current will flow through the voltmeter giving you a voltage reading. This is known as measuring the voltage drop in the component. You want 0 volts.

[pfrederi 20,777]

48 minutes ago, FLtractor said:

After calling 3 local hardware stores.. none have 4 gauge with 1/4 inch. 
so I found these online. 
seems to be exactly what I need to make it safest and easiest 

  the lugs should be good are the cables long enough???

[rmaynard 17,376]

1 hour ago, FLtractor said:

What does the G stand for on your 2 cables here?

Generator light

[sqrlgtr 3,090]

1 hour ago, FLtractor said:

fter calling 3 local hardware stores.. none have 4 gauge with 1/4 inch. 
so I found these online. 
seems to be exactly what I need to make it safest and easiest 

I got tired of trying to find cables that I liked so got all the stuff to make my own. Seem like they are always wrong length, have wrong size ends, etc... I got a hydraulic crimping tool from "horror freight " and never looked back, but Im always trading, buying , working on old WH tractors and stuff so may not be feasible for you to get into making your own.