FLtractor 171 #1 Posted 4 hours ago Evening? After watching several videos on old Wheelhorses.. not 856.. being repowered by new predator engines.. wondering which would be best easiest fit? For just mowing and or towing? No snow. Harbor freight has these two.. wondering which would be better option and or fitment… Also.. if I did install.. I would simply: unbolt and remove old engine.. coil.. points.. starter .. generator.. voltage regulator … gas tank and or pan if desired … Drill holes in tractor frame .. Add adapter plate to bolt to frame.. bolt new engine to that.. attach choke and throttle to new engine linkages… find a engine to mower and transmission Pulleys? if sizes different? Any steps wrong or missing? Overall how difficult would this be to do? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 4,568 #2 Posted 4 hours ago What's wrong with the engine you have? A K181 is going to be far superior to anything you buy at HF. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FLtractor 171 #3 Posted 4 hours ago (edited) 10 minutes ago, adsm08 said: What's wrong with the engine you have? A K181 is going to be far superior to anything you buy at HF. Well still getting small issues such as loose ignition in dash secured .. and attempting to figure out why engine wouldn’t start.. would turn over but no hint of combustion .. MIGHT be a bad condenser? Since has spark but might not be enough.. also starter generator light stays on on dash when tractor did run drive ect. Also just wondering if that’s how it would work to repower a 856. Seems simpler than replacing bunch of parts. If I did eventually replace found a tractor without a engine Edited 4 hours ago by FLtractor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 4,568 #4 Posted 4 hours ago 3 minutes ago, FLtractor said: Well still getting small issues such as loose ignition in dash secured .. and attempting to figure out why engine wouldn’t start.. would turn over but no hint of combustion .. MIGHT be a bad condenser? Since has spark but might not be enough.. Also just wondering if that’s how it would work to repower a 856. Seems simpler than replacing bunch of parts. If I did eventually replace found a tractor without a engine You don't strike me as the type who is super mechanically inclined. That's OK, not everyone is, but I believe that most people can learn to be. My advice would be to slow down a bit and take the time to learn. Time to learn to how things work, and time to learn to work on what you have before just throwing parts at it. You jump all over the place like an ADHD squirrel. Engine swaps are usually more trouble and work than just diagnosing the issue with the existing system. You say it cranks, and has spark, but no combustion. That is a sign of no fuel, have you tried to bottle feed it and see if it runs? Get a small medicine syringe, draw it full of gas, 5ml usually does the trick, and shoot it right into the throat of the carb while the engine is cranking. If fuel delivery is the issue it will start, but won't stay running. How is the spark? Is it snappy and blue, or is it orange and weak? If the condenser is bad disconnecting it will make it run, but is not a good long-term solution. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FLtractor 171 #5 Posted 4 hours ago (edited) 21 minutes ago, adsm08 said: You don't strike me as the type who is super mechanically inclined. That's OK, not everyone is, but I believe that most people can learn to be. My advice would be to slow down a bit and take the time to learn. Time to learn to how things work, and time to learn to work on what you have before just throwing parts at it. You jump all over the place like an ADHD squirrel. Engine swaps are usually more trouble and work than just diagnosing the issue with the existing system. You say it cranks, and has spark, but no combustion. That is a sign of no fuel, have you tried to bottle feed it and see if it runs? Get a small medicine syringe, draw it full of gas, 5ml usually does the trick, and shoot it right into the throat of the carb while the engine is cranking. If fuel delivery is the issue it will start, but won't stay running. How is the spark? Is it snappy and blue, or is it orange and weak? If the condenser is bad disconnecting it will make it run, but is not a good long-term solution. Your correct.. one of the main reasons I bought this 856 was to learn how it works.. learn the ins outs of why the mechanics and electrical parts work as they.. when you push that thing or pull that why effect happens or doesn’t.. on a machine that doesn’t have modern electronics or safety features to have some hidden reason. Why it’s not working. Just straight forward here’s why easy cheap to fix and maintain once I learn what I’m doing. Don’t want to just throw parts .. wants to diagnose what’s wrong .. fix or replace that and keep using tractor. I’ve learned a lot since ive owned the tractor. But still learning more. have not bottle fed it.. did notice the fuel inlet valve for carb is loose and I need to use some fuel leak stop tape.. and gently tighten it so it doesn’t let air in and allows more fuel in .. that could be problem.. checked spark with light bulb inline checker only.. but it didn’t appear very bright and was very brief. So if I get that fuel issue fixed by doing the above. replace condenser with new genuine condenser I bought. Spray fuel in carb throat.. then it should stay running and drive properly? Edited 4 hours ago by FLtractor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 4,568 #6 Posted 3 hours ago 3 minutes ago, FLtractor said: checked spark with light bulb inline checker only.. but it didn’t appear very bright and was very brief. So if I get that fuel issue fixed by doing the above. replace condenser with new genuine condenser I bought. Spray fuel in carb throat.. then it should stay running and drive properly? There you go, off to the races again. Let's slow down, unload the parts cannon, and take this one step at a time. An air leak around the threads of the carb inlet won't cause it to not run. Liquid fuel pools in the bowl, then air moving over the jet in the throat pulls vapors up. This is called "venturi vacuum", when air moving over an opening at 90 degrees pulls something else along through the hole. In-line spark testers are OK, but I don't like them for real diagnostics. My preferred method is to remove the spark plug from the head, plug it back into the wire, and hold the L-shaped end against the engine while cranking. This lets you get a good look at how the whole system is working together as a unit. Wear heavy linemans gloves, or leather welding gloves while doing that. If you use your bare hands during this step it can be.... "stimulating". A slightly safer, but less complete version of this test is to use a screwdriver in the end of the plug wire held about 1/4 inch from the block. I would not bother replacing the condenser unless you determine there is an ignition issue. If it's not the problem it won't help anything. Shooting fuel right into the carb throat will not allow you to drive off. The fuel only lasts a short time, enough to see if the engine can run, and show you that there is a fuel delivery issue, but most of the time 5ml will be gone before you get in the seat and get in gear, much more will flood it and then it won't run. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
