K241 on shaker plate ??

[John c 177]

So I'm running this new C101 I recently found, already ran 45m to an hour, then it just dies, turns out the ground jumper had broken at the engine mount bolt. 

 

Get that fixed, and now it won't crank, acts like it out of time, points are set @.020 with the flywheel mark @ "T" and crankshaft keyway pointed straight up, What am I missing ?

 

correction  it'll crank, it won't start, pops back through the carb, and fire out of the exhaust

Edited 20 hours ago by John c

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,281]

Have another condenser you can try?

[John c 177]

not new I don't, the one that's on it is less than an hour use, but it was an amazon cheapy

[953 nut 66,628]

Those symptoms could be a faulty condenser.  To test this just disconnect the condenser from the ignition coil, the engine can run without it for a short time for testing.

 If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up.

[John c 177]

is the engine shutting down suddenly and under load when the ground cable broke traumatic to the condenser ? 

 

I don't have a timing light so I went with .020 with flywheel at "T", that's right isn't it 

[953 nut 66,628]

Your ignition points should just begin to open at the time the "S" appears in the timing hole on the compression stroke, a setting of 0.20 will occur later in the revaluation and there is no particular marking on the flywheel for this.

You probably would be best off using the static timing method. The manual covers it well in Section 6, page 9.

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,281]

4 hours ago, John c said:

not new I don't, the one that's on it is less than an hour use, but it was an amazon cheapy

Try the one you took off.

[rmaynard 17,225]

12 hours ago, John c said:

is the engine shutting down suddenly and under load when the ground cable broke traumatic to the condenser ? 

 

I don't have a timing light so I went with .020 with flywheel at "T", that's right isn't it 

No. .020 at the "S" mark

[John c 177]

Condenser... anybody know of a NAPA part number, or a vehicle application I could use at a local auto parts store to buy a new one 

[953 nut 66,628]

The Kohler 230722 Condenser fits all battery ignition single cylinder and twin cylinder from the K-90 to the K-582.  

The unit of measure for a condenser is the Farad, and our small engines use a condenser that is in the nanofarad range (ten to the minus ninth power Farads) which is based on the voltage range they work in. A  battery ignition system uses a 200 to 500 nF condenser. The lower end of the spectrum is preferable as too high a rating will allow more flow resulting in coil overheating. Do not use a condenser intended for a magneto ignition because its rating is too low and will result in burned ignition point contacts.

Most automotive points condensers will be fine. I have used the 1960s Ford condenser ( 250 to 280 nF) because I had a few on the shelf.

The 1967 and earlier VW had an ignition coil with a built in resistor like the ones on a Kohler Though they do have a little extra wire on them you can eliminate they too are in the proper range and should be readily available at an auto parts store.