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John c

K241 on shaker plate ??

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John c

So I'm running this new C101 I recently found, already ran 45m to an hour, then it just dies, turns out the ground jumper had broken at the engine mount bolt. 

 

Get that fixed, and now it won't crank, acts like it out of time, points are set @.020 with the flywheel mark @ "T" and crankshaft keyway pointed straight up, What am I missing ?

 

correction  it'll crank, it won't start, pops back through the carb, and fire out of the exhaust

Edited by John c

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gwest_ca

Have another condenser you can try?

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John c

not new I don't, the one that's on it is less than an hour use, but it was an amazon cheapy

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953 nut

Those symptoms could be a faulty condenser.  To test this just disconnect the condenser from the ignition coil, the engine can run without it for a short time for testing.

 If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up.

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John c

is the engine shutting down suddenly and under load when the ground cable broke traumatic to the condenser ? 

 

I don't have a timing light so I went with .020 with flywheel at "T", that's right isn't it 

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953 nut

Your ignition points should just begin to open at the time the "S" appears in the timing hole on the compression stroke, a setting of 0.20 will occur later in the revaluation and there is no particular marking on the flywheel for this.

You probably would be best off using the static timing method. The manual covers it well in Section 6, page 9.

 

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gwest_ca
4 hours ago, John c said:

not new I don't, the one that's on it is less than an hour use, but it was an amazon cheapy

Try the one you took off.

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