856: factory drop in plastic gas tank?

[FLtractor 168]

Morning, 

 

Wondering if there’s a plastic gas tank that fits the factory pan on the 856 Wheelhorse without modifications needed- that the under tank fuel valve would fit the factory pan opening.  Possibly one under $100? Thinking of replacing the metal tank for a safer ride since it’s so close to the ignition wires on the dash. Would hate for a spark vibration or explosion. 
Was looking at the 0.5 gallon Honda plastic tanks on Amazon for $30.00. But not sure would fit and the mounting holes were on top and not sure the fuel valve would fit the opening. 

[ebinmaine 79,116]

14 minutes ago, FLtractor said:

Thinking of replacing the metal tank for a safer ride since it’s so close to the ignition wires on the dash. Would hate for a spark vibration or explosion. 

 

No need to replace the tank and hope things kinda work...

 

Options: 

1. Find and replace the factory insulator. 2. You could also add your own insulation to the wires.  

3. You could also add a thin piece of plastic between the tank and switch.  

 

[ri702bill 12,230]

Going to a metal tank increases the chance of a shorting to ground "thermal incident"...

[kpinnc 18,390]

1 hour ago, FLtractor said:

Wondering if there’s a plastic gas tank that fits the factory pan on the 856 Wheelhorse

 

My 867 also has the steel tank and I've often wondered about this as well. But the tank is fairly secure with the strap that holds it in place. I also have one in my custom V14. 

 

But if you really want to change it, there were factory plastic tanks on later machines that should fit. "Should" is the key word here. 

 

I've had two damaged ones. I think one was from a 1974 no name 8hp-4 speed. The other I have no clue (maybe a Commando?) but these tanks are basically half the size of the Raider/Charger/Bronco tanks that predates the C series. 

 

You might want to hit up a couple of the folks in our vendor section. And stay away from the larger sized square tanks. They will not allow the 856 hood to close. 

 

See the pic below.  The style you will be looking for is on the left. The right side will not fit under an 856 hood. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited yesterday at 01:07 PM by kpinnc

[Retired Wrencher 6,724]

2 hours ago, FLtractor said:

Morning, 

 

Wondering if there’s a plastic gas tank that fits the factory pan on the 856 Wheelhorse without modifications needed- that the under tank fuel valve would fit the factory pan opening.  Possibly one under $100? Thinking of replacing the metal tank for a safer ride since it’s so close to the ignition wires on the dash. Would hate for a spark vibration or explosion. 
Was looking at the 0.5 gallon Honda plastic tanks on Amazon for $30.00. But not sure would fit and the mounting holes were on top and not sure the fuel valve would fit the opening. 

If you can not find a steel tank which is the original tank. But if you don’t care, I think I have a Tecumseh fuel tank for snowblowers. I might have one or two tanks. I know I have one on my 1056 snowplow tractor it works OK let me know.

[gt14rider 1,201]

I used a bike inertube and zip ties to insulate the wires on my 856. Hasn't blown up yet. 

[ebinmaine 79,116]

1 minute ago, gt14rider said:

I used a bike inertube and zip ties to insulate the wires on my 856. Hasn't blown up yet. 

 

 

 

@FLtractor

 

There ya go!!

[squonk 46,835]

You can cut up a plastic milk jug and make a factory like shield panel.

[pfrederi 20,657]

I am sure that some time in the last 60 years an 856 caught fire but I bet the main problem was an operator head-space and timing issue....

 

(see if any old soldiers get the reference )

[gt14rider 1,201]

Ma deuce 

[FLtractor 168]

10 hours ago, gt14rider said:

I used a bike inertube and zip ties to insulate the wires on my 856. Hasn't blown up yet. 

I think I will take your idea here!! Possibly add additional rubber shield such as bicycle tube next to the fuel tank. Thank you 

[FLtractor 168]

10 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

@FLtractor

 

There ya go!!

Thanks !!!

[FLtractor 168]

10 hours ago, Retired Wrencher said:

If you can not find a steel tank which is the original tank. But if you don’t care, I think I have a Tecumseh fuel tank for snowblowers. I might have one or two tanks. I know I have one on my 1056 snowplow tractor it works OK let me know.

I think I will give the bicycle tube idea a go, i have my orginal steel 856 tank but if I decide to go for different tank I will be in touch. thank you 

[FLtractor 168]

11 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

My 867 also has the steel tank and I've often wondered about this as well. But the tank is fairly secure with the strap that holds it in place. I also have one in my custom V14. 

 

But if you really want to change it, there were factory plastic tanks on later machines that should fit. "Should" is the key word here. 

 

I've had two damaged ones. I think one was from a 1974 no name 8hp-4 speed. The other I have no clue (maybe a Commando?) but these tanks are basically half the size of the Raider/Charger/Bronco tanks that predates the C series. 

 

You might want to hit up a couple of the folks in our vendor section. And stay away from the larger sized square tanks. They will not allow the 856 hood to close. 

 

See the pic below.  The style you will be looking for is on the left. The right side will not fit under an 856 hood. 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you for the helpful info and picture

[FLtractor 168]

12 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

No need to replace the tank and hope things kinda work...

 

Options: 

1. Find and replace the factory insulator. 2. You could also add your own insulation to the wires.  

3. You could also add a thin piece of plastic between the tank and switch.  

 

Thank you for the ideas Eric!!

[adsm08 4,542]

My experience has been that the ignition switch side is not where you have to worry about electrical contact with the tank.

 

The petcock usually won't let it go back far enough to contact the ignition switch.

 

The voltage regulator on the other hand, can 100% come back and contact the tank on the front side if you are working with the S/G unit. I have a few strip of Coroplast fiber tape on the front of my tank to prevent electrical contact in that area.

[FLtractor 168]

33 minutes ago, adsm08 said:

My experience has been that the ignition switch side is not where you have to worry about electrical contact with the tank.

 

The petcock usually won't let it go back far enough to contact the ignition switch.

 

The voltage regulator on the other hand, can 100% come back and contact the tank on the front side if you are working with the S/G unit. I have a few strip of Coroplast fiber tape on the front of my tank to prevent electrical contact in that area.

Thank you for the info … Can you please help me better understand.. What do you mean the voltage regulator can come back… if the fuel tank is on the pan.. and there’s … half a foot? Of space between there and the voltage regulator.. how can it contact the tank if all are bolted down and the only connection is the one wire from the voltage regulator either directly to the positive terminal or the ignition battery terminal? 

Edited 17 hours ago by FLtractor

[adsm08 4,542]

21 minutes ago, FLtractor said:

Thank you for the info … Can you please help me better understand.. What do you mean the voltage regulator can come back… if the fuel tank is on the pan.. and there’s … half a foot? Of space between there and the voltage regulator.. how can it contact the tank if all are bolted down and the only connection is the one wire from the voltage regulator either directly to the positive terminal or the ignition battery terminal? 

 

I have had several incidents where I was working with the tank, or the generator, and in the process of moving one of them the tank came into contact with the terminals of the voltage regulator.

 

If the tank is unbolted and moved forward, like during removal, or if the S/G belt is off and the generator bolts are loose and it is allowed to pivot rearward, the terminals can contact the tank

 

One of the terminals on the regulator is battery power, it's always hot. The metal tank sits on the metal body of the tractor, making the tank itself a ground. If that hot terminal hits the tank you have a short to ground through your fuel tank.

[FLtractor 168]

1 hour ago, adsm08 said:

 

I have had several incidents where I was working with the tank, or the generator, and in the process of moving one of them the tank came into contact with the terminals of the voltage regulator.

 

If the tank is unbolted and moved forward, like during removal, or if the S/G belt is off and the generator bolts are loose and it is allowed to pivot rearward, the terminals can contact the tank

 

One of the terminals on the regulator is battery power, it's always hot. The metal tank sits on the metal body of the tractor, making the tank itself a ground. If that hot terminal hits the tank you have a short to ground through your fuel tank.

Ahhh that makes sense now… so solution is to just keep bolted down S/G… and be mindful of tank when moving working around it … also solution : unbolt the negative battery terminal and or bolt so battery terminal on regulator is no longer hot?

[kpinnc 18,390]

2 hours ago, FLtractor said:

unbolt the negative battery terminal and or bolt so battery terminal on regulator is no longer hot?

 

I use Anderson connectors on all my tractors. Lets me quickly swap batteries if needed and also completely disconnect when not in use. No parasitic drain, and no problems working on stuff. 

 

[Retired Wrencher 6,724]

9 hours ago, FLtractor said:

I think I will take your idea here!! Possibly add additional rubber shield such as bicycle tube next to the fuel tank. Thank you 

No offense that I use like a milk jug 1 gallon or Tropicana orange juice  and cut out a piece of the plastic, and then you can spray paint it and and no one will ever know the difference. The original idea was having about a 2 inch wide piece of plastic with two holes that fit over the switch. This was their spark deflector. Use the broad side of the gallon Jug.It fits nice snug in there.

[FLtractor 168]

7 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

I use Anderson connectors on all my tractors. Lets me quickly swap batteries if needed and also completely disconnect when not in use. No parasitic drain, and no problems working on stuff. 

 

Where does this connect to and or from? Haven’t ever seen that before. Have a link where to get ?