I was ask to post this info.

[Retired Wrencher 6,712]

This is from the experience I went through the last couple days. It pertains to a B 100 that I picked up a few weeks ago. It’s been quite the experience with the wiring on this tractor. I was trying to fix someone else’s mistakes. Yesterday was I guess you called a head banger or scratcher.  Be cause everything I did did not work. So today I guess you could call it a premonition early in the morning. I decided to use a jumper wire form the solenoid to the wire on the starter from the Solenoid.. Bingo it worked. So Squonk AKA Mike was interested how this came about. So I told him. He said the wire was bad. I thought how a 6ga wire could be bad  with no bare spots and the contacts were clean and shiny. So as I changed the wire witch is a 4ga brand new. Bingo I have contact. I have had a few of this model in the past. So I guess you could say don’t assume everything is good just by looks. I am not good with electrical never took the time to learn it.. if you read this and liked it say something or give me a thumbs up. Enjoy all your projects. This is something apparently I didn’t follow when I was doing it.

[ebinmaine 79,091]

12 minutes ago, Retired Wrencher said:

how a 6ga wire could be bad  with no bare spots and the contacts were clean and shiny

 

Internal corrosion 

[Retired Wrencher 6,712]

9 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Internal corrosion 

Thanks Eric. Never thought of that. Like I said this was never my strong point. 

Edited 6 hours ago by Retired Wrencher

[ebinmaine 79,091]

Just now, Retired Wrencher said:

Thanks Eric. Never thought of that.

 

 

I hadn't either until you updated your results with this thread.

 

I should have thought of it earlier too because I just experienced this two or three weeks ago on my own pickup truck and I've seen it several times on old tractor battery cables over the years.

[squonk 46,794]

The cables in the pics looked new but suspect to my eyes. We had an electrical clinic at the Napa when I was working there. Had a nice set up from the Rayloc rep. A battery with  nothing in it but 6 D cell flashlight batteries, A 4 ga. cable with only 1 strand connected inside of it.  Key switch ,solenoid and starter all on a big board. Pretty cool. We invited all the shops to attend. We had a 12 volt test light , multimeter and jumper wires. One by one we had guys trying to diagnose various bugs we put in a circuit. 

 

And still I had to go to garages and find problems that stumped these guys including 2 the very next day! 

 

Moral of the story:

 

A 12 volt test light only tells you that electricity is present. Most of them have a 6 or 9 V bulb in it so it will glow with 3 volts. Get a multimeter and learn how to use it. Electrical circuits on a WH are like a road map. Start at the battery and follow the positive side until there is a stopping point like a solenoid. Watch the video's I posted about grounds and solenoids. A multimeter would have found this problem in a minute.

Edited 6 hours ago by squonk

[953 nut 66,449]

13 hours ago, Retired Wrencher said:

I decided to use a jumper wire form the solenoid to the wire on the starter from the Solenoid.. Bingo it worked.

That is the point of this test method I have posted here quite often.

Why won’t my starter turn over from the key switch?\

Lets take a logical step by step inspection of your starter problem.

Is your PTO in the ON position, a wheel horse will not start with the PTO on.

Have you had the battery load tested at an auto parts store?

Have you cleaned and tightened all electrical connections including grounds?

Are all fuses good and fuse holders cleaned?

If these have all been done, we can check components of the starting system as follows; don’t skip a step or you may miss the problem.

Be sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set.

Take a pair of automotive jumper cables and connect the black cable to your battery  "-" and a good clean spot on the engine. Now connect the other cable to the large post on the starter and touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal, does the starter turn over? If the starter turns over the battery and starter are good. If it didn't turn over try the same steps with the battery in your car/truck, if that cures the problem then the "good" battery wasn't so good.

Presuming the starter turned over move the jumper wire from the starter post to the other end of the wire going to the starter which is one of the large posts on the solenoid. If the starter turns over when the battery is touched by the jumper as before then that cable is good, if not you have found your problem.

Presuming the starter turned over move that jumper to the other terminal of the solenoid, connect the other end to the battery and use a small piece of wire to temporarily connect the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, this should cause the solenoid to close and the starter to turn over. If not, the solenoid is probably the problem.

If this was successful remove the large jumper cable and use the small jumper wire to the small terminal of the solenoid, the solenoid should close and the starter turn over. If not the cable to the battery is the problem.

Presuming all of these have been successful remove the black jumper wire and repeat the small jumper to small terminal, if the starter turns over the ground is good.

If all of these components test good then remove your ignition switch, be sure the transmission is in neutral, parking brake on, clutch depressed and PTO off. Use a small jumper to connect the terminals that were connected to the “B” and “S” terminals of the ignition switch. If the starter turns over then the PTO switch and other safety switches are operating properly and your ignition switch may be bad.

[8ntruck 8,936]

@Retired Wrencher thanks for posting your solution to your problem.  Doing so helps the rest of us by 'closing the loop'.  As @ebinmaine points out " never thought of that".

 

I've  seen so many good discussions about problems in many forums where the solution is never posted.  Leaves one to wonder what the solution was.

 

I'm chasing a grabby clutch issue on Pack Rat, the AC B-110.  The folks on the simpletrACtors forum pointed out the drive pulley has multiple pieces with plastic washers and bushings between them.  Those pieces on my machine were worn or missing.  I posted a thank you there yesterday.

Edited 1 hour ago by 8ntruck