'69 Raider 12 ignition switch???

[kbert1171 1]

Can,anyone help me in finding a replacement ignition switch for my 1969 Raider 12? Supposed to be an 8362, but I can't find anything close to it. 

I'm not looking to restore it, I just need the tractor for mowing and moving trailers and such. I dont need the accessorie part of the switch, if that will help me find a switch that will work. 

Please help. I am desperate.  

Edited Monday at 02:42 PM by kbert1171

[pfrederi 20,609]

It is a very expensive heavy duty switch.  You might want to consider a regular switch 103990 (if you have battery ignition) and add 12v solenoid.  

 

 

 

Edited Monday at 02:56 PM by pfrederi

[kbert1171 1]

Sounds like my only option at this point. So, will I run the starter wire to the solenoid, and another wire from it to the starter? And then what about the other wires? Where will they go on the new switch? 

Thank you for the help. 

 

(How expensive is expensive? It'll probably last for the rest on my life at this point. And it might be worth the money to not have to rewire the switch and add a solenoid somewhere.)

[pfrederi 20,609]

Cole  Hersee  95510- is for magneto systems I forgot the number for battery ignition. (it may be 95520) They run about $80 

[squonk 46,656]

39 minutes ago, kbert1171 said:

Sounds like my only option at this point. So, will I run the starter wire to the solenoid, and another wire from it to the starter? And then what about the other wires? Where will they go on the new switch? 

Thank you for the help. 

 

(How expensive is expensive? It'll probably last for the rest on my life at this point. And it might be worth the money to not have to rewire the switch and add a solenoid somewhere.)

 

Depending on what type of coil you have. But this is the magneto style diagram, If you have a battery ignition the switch should have an I instead of an M

 

Battery ignition:

 

Edited Monday at 04:14 PM by squonk

[ri702bill 12,169]

The point is that the OE style switch sees  all the current go thru its internal contacts when starting. Not a good long term design at all. I added a solenoid (a device designed to pass high current on one loop when the smaller low current internal coil - that click sound - is activated from the keyswitch) on my 854 when I got it. I made a plate that stands off the back of the S/G to mount the solenoid out of the way and keep the wiring as short in length as possible.

 

[Handy Don 16,679]

6 hours ago, kbert1171 said:

Sounds like my only option at this point. So, will I run the starter wire to the solenoid, and another wire from it to the starter? And then what about the other wires? Where will they go on the new switch? 

Thank you for the help. 

(How expensive is expensive? It'll probably last for the rest on my life at this point. And it might be worth the money to not have to rewire the switch and add a solenoid somewhere.)

I put a new high amp ($50 at the time) Cole Hersee switch on my similar vintage K181. It lasted only three years and was getting testy before it died. Starting uses a lot of current, especially the older spark-retard engines starting against full compression.

• High Amperage: Cole Hersee 95521-01-BX (orig. Part No. 4988 superseded by 7263)

• Low Amperage: Toro 103990

I “switched" to the low amp switch with a solenoid like @ri702bill.  No longer have the heavy wiring straining against the ignition switch connectors. Two years so far and smooth sailing. The switch plus solenoid plus some wire cost about the same as the high-amperage switch. 

Edited Monday at 10:07 PM by Handy Don

[kbert1171 1]

What solenoid do i need to swap over to that style ignition? And is that all I'll need? 

[ri702bill 12,169]

I used a spare solenoid from a 8 HP C81. The wiring depends on what Ignotion switch you use...

[Handy Don 16,679]

I used a Stens 435-435 Starter Solenoid and the 103990 ignition switch. Modest prices for good quality. Solenoid had several mounting flanges which gave me flexibility. I cut off the ones I didn’t use. I also redid the heavy wiring (ground and positive) with new 6ga stranded cable and new lug ends. 

Just to be clear, my tractor’s engine had battery ignition, NOT a magneto--the switch and some wiring differ between the two but neither is especially complicated. 

Edited 6 hours ago by Handy Don

[kbert1171 1]

Okay. So how do I differentiate between the two types, battery and magneto? 

[953 nut 66,284]

If you have a little round thing with a plug wire coming from it you have a battery powered ignition.

[pfrederi 20,609]

12 minutes ago, kbert1171 said:

Okay. So how do I differentiate between the two types, battery and magneto? 

 That is important.  Raiders of that era could have Battery Points, Magneto or possibly breakerless ignition systems.

 

How to tell:

 

if the spark plug wire comes from a can shaped coil battery points.

 

If it just comes from under the air shroud  magneto.  

 

If it comes from a triangular shaped box  breakerless

 

Batter point yo need ignition switch with an "I"Terminal

 

Magento Breakerless "M" terminal

[953 nut 66,284]

Battery ignition will use a 103990 switch and the Magneto and Breaker less will use the 103991 switch.

 

[kbert1171 1]

Okay. 

Just checked and it's breakerless, so the 103991 is what I'll need. 

Thank you all for the information. I really appreciate your help. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,254]

You may want to get the plug in connector for the switch. You can get them with leads already installed and you just join your original wires to them. Wire colors can be switched around if desired by releasing the terminals.

Click on the picture of the switch to see the connector.

Releasing the terminals is explained here. Click on the terminal.