'69 Raider 12 ignition switch???

[kbert1171 1]

Can,anyone help me in finding a replacement ignition switch for my 1969 Raider 12? Supposed to be an 8362, but I can't find anything close to it. 

I'm not looking to restore it, I just need the tractor for mowing and moving trailers and such. I dont need the accessorie part of the switch, if that will help me find a switch that will work. 

Please help. I am desperate.  

Edited 15 hours ago by kbert1171

[pfrederi 20,605]

It is a very expensive heavy duty switch.  You might want to consider a regular switch 103990 (if you have battery ignition) and add 12v solenoid.  

 

 

 

Edited 15 hours ago by pfrederi

[kbert1171 1]

Sounds like my only option at this point. So, will I run the starter wire to the solenoid, and another wire from it to the starter? And then what about the other wires? Where will they go on the new switch? 

Thank you for the help. 

 

(How expensive is expensive? It'll probably last for the rest on my life at this point. And it might be worth the money to not have to rewire the switch and add a solenoid somewhere.)

[pfrederi 20,605]

Cole  Hersee  95510- is for magneto systems I forgot the number for battery ignition. (it may be 95520) They run about $80 

[squonk 46,636]

39 minutes ago, kbert1171 said:

Sounds like my only option at this point. So, will I run the starter wire to the solenoid, and another wire from it to the starter? And then what about the other wires? Where will they go on the new switch? 

Thank you for the help. 

 

(How expensive is expensive? It'll probably last for the rest on my life at this point. And it might be worth the money to not have to rewire the switch and add a solenoid somewhere.)

 

Depending on what type of coil you have. But this is the magneto style diagram, If you have a battery ignition the switch should have an I instead of an M

 

Battery ignition:

 

Edited 14 hours ago by squonk

[ri702bill 12,162]

The point is that the OE style switch sees  all the current go thru its internal contacts when starting. Not a good long term design at all. I added a solenoid (a device designed to pass high current on one loop when the smaller low current internal coil - that click sound - is activated from the keyswitch) on my 854 when I got it. I made a plate that stands off the back of the S/G to mount the solenoid out of the way and keep the wiring as short in length as possible.

 

[Handy Don 16,644]

6 hours ago, kbert1171 said:

Sounds like my only option at this point. So, will I run the starter wire to the solenoid, and another wire from it to the starter? And then what about the other wires? Where will they go on the new switch? 

Thank you for the help. 

(How expensive is expensive? It'll probably last for the rest on my life at this point. And it might be worth the money to not have to rewire the switch and add a solenoid somewhere.)

I put a new high amp ($50 at the time) Cole Hersee switch on my similar vintage K181. It lasted only three years and was getting testy before it died. Starting uses a lot of current, especially the older spark-retard engines starting against full compression.

• High Amperage: Cole Hersee 95521-01-BX (orig. Part No. 4988 superseded by 7263)

• Low Amperage: Toro 103990

I “switched" to the low amp switch with a solenoid like @ri702bill.  No longer have the heavy wiring straining against the ignition switch connectors. Two years so far and smooth sailing. The switch plus solenoid plus some wire cost about the same as the high-amperage switch. 

Edited 8 hours ago by Handy Don