Possible C160

[Fj40z 86]

14 minutes ago, AlexR said:

Eb is right on, it's a 1976 and yes it was originally a C160 8 speed

 

Whats the breakdown on the numbers that lets you know that? Like to learn

[oliver2-44 11,499]

8 hours ago, Fj40z said:

 

Seller had replaced both rear axle seals not long ago as well. 

Nice looking Horse! 
Sometimes a leaking rear axle seal can indicate other issues.
Jack up the tractor, remove the rear wheels and see if you can move the axle hubs up/down, side to side. Any movement more than a tiny tiny amount can indicate worn axle bearings and or axles. New seals usually don’t last if the bearings are worn. 
In an out movement is ok 

Edited Sunday at 02:32 AM by oliver2-44

[Fj40z 86]

2 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

Nice looking Horse! 
Sometimes a leaking rear axle seal can indicate other issues.
Jack up the tractor, remove the rear wheels and see if you can move the axle hubs up/down, side to side. Any movement more than a tiny tiny amount can indicate worn axle bearings and or axles. New seals usually don’t last if the bearings are worn. 
In an out movement is ok 

Thank you sir! I’ll sure do that as soon as I get a chance 

[ebinmaine 79,018]

8 hours ago, Fj40z said:

 

 Here’s a pic of the data tag. Any guesses to the model year?

Hard to see in the pic but it reads

 

61-16K801-03173

6311

 

 

The first 6 in the first line is what tells the year here.  I don't recall the methodology behind it.  

 

[AlexR 2,960]

6 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

The first 6 in the first line is what tells the year here.  I don't recall the methodology behind it.  

On the second line the 4 digits I believe the 6 is for 76 and 311 is the 311th day of 76

But there is something in the first line that determines the year as well I'm not completely sure what either.

 

The first line 61 is a indicator of the year in some way. The 16K is the 16hp kohler and the 8 is for the 8 speed

 

Edited Sunday at 04:49 PM by AlexR

[ineedanother 2,422]

23 hours ago, Fj40z said:

 

 Here’s a pic of the data tag. Any guesses to the model year?

Hard to see in the pic but it reads

 

61-16K801-03173

6311

Here is the tag from my first c-160. It's difficult to make out but:

61-16KS01-03388

6302

Possibly together on the production line in 1976. Almost certainly on the grounds together and might have come to NC in the same shipment.

 

Edited Monday at 01:19 AM by ineedanother

[Fj40z 86]

40 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

Here is the tag from my first c-160. It's difficult to make out but:

61-16KS01-03388

6302

Possibly together on the production line in 1976. Almost certainly on the grounds together and might have come to NC in the same shipment.

 

How cool is that!! I wouldn’t doubt it at all. Would be interesting to know what dealers they were sent to and such. I do know mine spent its entire life in western NC. Crazy to think after all those years they are both still in central NC now. 

[ineedanother 2,422]

3 minutes ago, Fj40z said:

How cool is that!! I wouldn’t doubt it at all. Would be interesting to know what dealers they were sent to and such. I do know mine spent its entire life in western NC. Crazy to think after all those years they are both still in central NC now. 

50 years of who knows what. The frame from mine is still here but was mistreated and unserviceable. Just about everything else from it is working for me still. That's a testament...

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,259]

Notice the plate stamper at the time did not understand Julian build dates

1976 C-160 8-Speed model 61-16K801
1976 serial numbers that have shown up for the 61-16K801

003173 - Build date 1975 5311 November 7 Friday [6311 is wrong]

 

1976 C-160 Auto model 61-16KS01
1976 serial numbers that have shown up for the 61-16KS01

003388 - Build date 1975 5302 October 29 Wednesday [6302 posted]

[ineedanother 2,422]

39 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Notice the plate stamper at the time did not understand Julian build dates

1976 C-160 8-Speed model 61-16K801
1976 serial numbers that have shown up for the 61-16K801

003173 - Build date 1975 5311 November 7 Friday [6311 is wrong]

 

1976 C-160 Auto model 61-16KS01
1976 serial numbers that have shown up for the 61-16KS01

003388 - Build date 1975 5302 October 29 Wednesday [6302 posted]

Interesting, and I have yet to figure out how you decipher all of this but appreciate it  Not to derail @Fj40z thread but I'm in agreement that we're both in possession of '75 c-160s regardless of the lack of details to confirm build dates. The one "record" I have from mine is a manual from the PO.

[Fj40z 86]

@ineedanother  please keep posting, all great info no derailment at all. 

[Fj40z 86]

11 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Notice the plate stamper at the time did not understand Julian build dates

1976 C-160 8-Speed model 61-16K801
1976 serial numbers that have shown up for the 61-16K801

003173 - Build date 1975 5311 November 7 Friday [6311 is wrong]

 

1976 C-160 Auto model 61-16KS01
1976 serial numbers that have shown up for the 61-16KS01

003388 - Build date 1975 5302 October 29 Wednesday [6302 posted]

Very cool info with this. I’m still learning so I’m not 100 percent sure what Julian build dates mean. I’m thinking that it means both mine and @ineedanother have C160’s that were actually built in late 1975 for the 1976 model year correct?

[ebinmaine 79,018]

5 hours ago, Fj40z said:

Very cool info with this. I’m still learning so I’m not 100 percent sure what Julian build dates mean.

 

 

Julian dates are usually a 4 or 5 character code that shows the year made and the actual COUNTED day of that year.  

 

For example: 

January has 31 days

February usually has 28

March has 31

 

Add them. 90

So a Julian date for March 31st, 1975 might read 

75090

Or

5090

 

 

5 hours ago, Fj40z said:

 

I’m thinking that it means both mine and @ineedanother have C160’s that were actually built in late 1975 for the 1976 model year correct?

 

 

That's my impression.  

[Fj40z 86]

@ebinmaine Makes sense, would have never figured that out on my own. 

[ebinmaine 79,018]

6 hours ago, Fj40z said:

@ebinmaine Makes sense, would have never figured that out on my own. 

 

 

Me either. That goes back to my early days in auto parts. 

[pfrederi 20,613]

If you were in the Army and had anything to do with supply you know julian dates.  Problem was the 4 digit replicated every 10 years

[peter lena 9,893]

@Fj40z personally  love original  oiled patina , first thing  I do on  any recent pick up .  never remove any of  what's there , 2 stage set up , penetrating oil spray / soak down , really good in a hot  sun , to quickly depen base of  patina paint ,would just leave , enhance that soak for days , then I like a mineral oil clean cloth  rub down ,  get every inch  of  penetrated paint , let that soak , again , the sun really darkens the paint absorption, wipe it down  clean / clear , then a 6" electric palm buffer , cleaner wax , just go easy and you will see the depth  of what's left , experiment on areas , for  reference , why not ?  think that will be a perfect  darker  based look . deck will probably  be a stage cleaner / brighter . like to hot sun oil soak those , don't tell it doesn't work . pete

 

[Fj40z 86]

On 6/2/2026 at 4:23 PM, peter lena said:

@Fj40z personally  love original  oiled patina , first thing  I do on  any recent pick up .  never remove any of  what's there , 2 stage set up , penetrating oil spray / soak down , really good in a hot  sun , to quickly depen base of  patina paint ,would just leave , enhance that soak for days , then I like a mineral oil clean cloth  rub down ,  get every inch  of  penetrated paint , let that soak , again , the sun really darkens the paint absorption, wipe it down  clean / clear , then a 6" electric palm buffer , cleaner wax , just go easy and you will see the depth  of what's left , experiment on areas , for  reference , why not ?  think that will be a perfect  darker  based look . deck will probably  be a stage cleaner / brighter . like to hot sun oil soak those , don't tell it doesn't work . pete

 

That’s probably going to be my plan for the time being. I love old to see old stuff all original with patina. I have a ‘79 Toyota pickup that I left alone as far as body work and paint. Every so often I scrub it down with CLR then I rub it down with boiled linseed oil. Takes a couple days for the oil to cure out but it looks really nice and preserves it well. 

[oliver2-44 11,499]

1 hour ago, Fj40z said:

 Every so often I scrub it down with CLR then I rub it down with boiled linseed oil. Takes a couple days for the oil to cure out but it looks really nice and preserves it well. 

 

Looks Good1

I've never heard of scrubbing one down with CLR. 

Is that to remove light surface rust?

Is it more common in Northern state that use road salts, etc?

[Fj40z 86]

1 hour ago, oliver2-44 said:

 

Looks Good1

I've never heard of scrubbing one down with CLR. 

Is that to remove light surface rust?

Is it more common in Northern state that use road salts, etc?

Yeah that’s exactly it. It will remove the red oxidation color, leaving fairly clean steel. I use a blue scotch brite pad and go over the whole rig just like washing a car. Let it dry then apply the oil. Some guys use Comet instead of CLR and it works well also. Either one will remove lots of old dirty stains from paint. 
Some people use Penetrol or Fluid Film instead of the boiled linseed oil. Main thing is whatever oil you use is to apply and then really rub most of it off, leaving a very light film. They all take a couple days to cure out. 
Rags with boiled linseed oil have been known to combust so if you ever use it be careful with those oily rags. 
Really not a northern thing, I’m in NC and I know lots of guys that utilize this method just preserving old original paint. I think it started out in the rat rod scene. 

Edited 4 hours ago by Fj40z

[ebinmaine 79,018]

3 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

 

Looks Good1

I've never heard of scrubbing one down with CLR. 

Is that to remove light surface rust?

Is it more common in Northern state that use road salts, etc?

 

2 hours ago, Fj40z said:

Really not a northern thing

 

Correct. 

 

Up here we just replace the panel because there's no holding patina on a rust hole 🕳

 

I'm kidding. A little. There are plenty of people that do their best to preserve but you can not use the item in the winter on the roads without incredible amounts of extra work.