314A trans issue.. is it scrap?

[nyquil junkie 277]

This is the 314A I got in that auction I posted about elsewhere. I got the steering hammered out, figured out the starting issue, a few dirty grounds and a clutch safety and now it starts fine w the key.

 

So I go to take it for a good ride, and it started out ok but within 50 feet, it stopped, got slow, wouldn't move, grabbed a bit, jerked a little, moved along slowly.... would hardly pull itself up a grade. Ugh.

 

I was taking it to another driveway to take it apart and clean it anyway, so I see the little reservoir under the seat is nearly empty. I looked up the spec, filled it with 10w30 as its all I had, close enough until its changed. I worked it back and forth a while, some bubbles worked out, but its still as weak and a sick kitten. I jacked up the rear and let it run a while in rev and fwd. You can stop the wheels with your hands at full engagement. After about 15 min of shifting and running, its still barely moved the tractor at full engagement.

 

This is bout where my pay grade ends.  Is there something else I can try here?  I'm not gonna replace the pump or anything heroic, I can part it out or something if its shot but I had planned to sell it off as a whole working tractor.... oh well.

What are my options here....

 

 

 

[nyquil junkie 277]

A few pointless pics...

 

[ri702bill 12,119]

I have no history with the WH Automatics, but - 20 Bonus Points for securing the temp gas tank to the hood for the test ride.

[Bill D 2,863]

If you could score a good Eaton 1100 transmission it would swap right in with just 4 bolts and the brake and control linkages.  Just run a hose directly from the high pressure port for the hydraulic lift on the 1100 back into the filter. 

[kpinnc 18,259]

1 hour ago, nyquil junkie said:

What are my options here....

 

The 700 series pumps unfortunately have 1/3 the output torque of an 1100 series. They are more often neglected as 1100 series as well from what I have seen. 

 

You do have options to swap in another pump. As Don said an 1100 will bolt right in after you remove the transaxle adapter plate. 

 

Another option is to replace the entire transmission with an 8 speed. Zero modifications since it already has manual lift, and very few parts to make it work. 

 

The frame and sub parts were made to accept both so things like a clutch pedal and linkage along with the brake parts is all you need. And a shifter top cover to replace the DCL style panel. Very common parts. 

Edited 19 hours ago by kpinnc

[JoeM 9,947]

You could drain the oil in the hydro and refill, I find they get contaminated with water. 

Drain plug (oring) 

 

[ineedanother 2,366]

Did you check to see that it wasn't a hub slipping on the axle?

[nyquil junkie 277]

Quote

drain the oil in the hydro and refill, I find they get contaminated with water. 

 

Where do you fill it...

[nyquil junkie 277]

1 hour ago, ineedanother said:

Did you check to see that it wasn't a hub slipping on the axle?

 

I'll look. The keys might be missing. Good idea.

[nyquil junkie 277]

4 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

The 700 series pumps unfortunately have 1/3 the output torque of an 1100 series. They are more often neglected as 1100 series as well from what I have seen. 

 

You do have options to swap in another pump. As Don said an 1100 will bolt right in after you remove the transaxle adapter plate. 

 

Another option is to replace the entire transmission with an 8 speed. Zero modifications since it already has manual lift, and very few parts to make it work. 

 

The frame and sub parts were made to accept both so things like a clutch pedal and linkage along with the brake parts is all you need. And a shifter top cover to replace the DCL style panel. Very common parts. 

 

Worst case I can part n tarp it, eventually Ill drag home more parts rollers for either of those swaps.

[JoeM 9,947]

9 hours ago, nyquil junkie said:

Where do you fill it...

through that top cap where you added the oil. i would even run some through while draining. Might have to do it twice. 

[Handy Don 16,618]

3 hours ago, JoeM said:

through that top cap where you added the oil. i would even run some through while draining. Might have to do it twice. 

If you choose to drain/refill, look closely at what comes out. If there is any sign of metal particles in the oil, consider it a very strong indication that the hydro was run without oil or that the tractor was forcibly pushed instead of moving under its own power (Eaton 700s do not have acceleration or bypass valves to accommodate being pushed). Both are hydro life-shortening. 

BTW, the tank on the top is for expansion and typically fills only when the hydro has heated up through use.

[JoeM 9,947]

33 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

look closely at what comes out.

this one was giving me trouble and the oil change worked