Raider 10 speed copntrol

[Tim.0 43]

The control lever for going forward backwards goes to full speed forward. Used to stay in a position. I had some information looked up and lost it, Any help. 1970 or so Raider or Cherger 10 or 12 if i remember correctly. Thanks

wheelhorse ranger.jfif

 

Edited May 22 by Tim.0

[Tim.0 43]

found some info loosen nut tighten friction collar. anyone have any other insight on this. It was working and just stopped. Something possibly broken in friction collar? Thanks

[pfrederi 20,828]

Make sure the metal tab on the left end of the shaft (bolted to the hoodstand) isn't broken or the bolt missing. (#24/25)

 

 

[WHX?? 57,278]

This guy here is what sets the friction. 

There was ones with springs over the top of the plate that set the tension on the plate. Some tractors do not have that spring. 

I thinks Lowell has the replacement plates. I know he has replacement cam plates. Check that for wear too. 

Edited May 22 by WHX??

[pfrederi 20,828]

1 minute ago, WHX?? said:

This guy here is what sets the friction. 

There was ones with springs over the top of the plate that set the tension on the plate. ome tractors do not have that spring. 

I thinks Lowell has the replacement plates. I know he has replacement cam plates. Check that for wear too. 

  The big spring on the cross shaft provides the resistance to the motion control.  The little springs back on the slider were only used on Wheelamatics... (875-1275 vintage tractors.)

[pfrederi 20,828]

Too adjust the tension on the control loosen the1-1/8 nut then use 5/8"  wrench to turn the 4 flats on the end of the shaft sleeve

[WHX?? 57,278]

2 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

vintage tractors.

Can tell I'm a vintage guy. 

[Easton Rich 1,259]

2 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Can tell I'm a vintage guy. 

Maybe classified as antique? 

[Tim.0 43]

Thanks for replies. I will give it a look tomorrow.

I bought this mower few years ago sat in a persons shed for years never ran. I brought home worked on it and brought it life. Runs good. One day I was backing up and the control lever went to full forward on its own. Something gave. Knocked me over backwards out of seat. and the mower off it went and stopped on top of old drag i have. Banged my head and back little sore luckily I didn't get real hurt. I put the mower away been meaning to fix it. 

 

There seems to be no tension on the control lever. Just goes to fast forward. Almost like its spring loaded.

 

Thanks for replies.

[squonk 47,279]

6 hours ago, Tim.0 said:

Thanks for replies. I will give it a look tomorrow.

I bought this mower few years ago sat in a persons shed for years never ran. I brought home worked on it and brought it life. Runs good. One day I was backing up and the control lever went to full forward on its own. Something gave. Knocked me over backwards out of seat. and the mower off it went and stopped on top of old drag i have. Banged my head and back little sore luckily I didn't get real hurt. I put the mower away been meaning to fix it. 

 

There seems to be no tension on the control lever. Just goes to fast forward. Almost like its spring loaded.

 

Thanks for replies.

By that description, I'd say that tab Paul mentioned probably broke

[ineedanother 2,539]

As a side note, the friction collar doesn't do it's job if it's lubricated. I believe it should be clean and dry 

[Tim.0 43]

is 82 suppose to move inside 80? Thanks    trying to figure how it works. I ad justed works better. I dont think it is working the way it should. Thanks again

 

Yes i sprayed a bit penetrating oil and shouldnt have to clean it up some. Go back over with some brake clean.

[ineedanother 2,539]

1 hour ago, Tim.0 said:

is 82 suppose to move inside 80?

Yes, that is what creates the friction. Good call on the brake clean 

[Tim.0 43]

so my assembly really needs be taken apart to work proper . the friction cone and b2 move together.

[Bar Nuthin 2,564]

Tagging on to an older thread.

 

I needed to increase the resistance on my C-120 motion control. I remember when I first got the tractor, I had spayed some lubricant on the friction cone and related parts.

Shortly thereafter, I learned that it should not be lubricated and tried to clean it up with brake cleaner and compressed air. Resistance was decent but not great.

This week I disassembled it and thoroughly cleaned the cone and cup and reassembled.  I have the adjustment maxed out (the spring almost completely compressed and there are not threads left at the end of the adjusting rod. But it actually seems looser than it was before.

The only things I can think of are ...

1. The cone and collar have worn or polished themselves too smooth
2. My spring has weakened
3. I didn't get it reassembled correctly (though it seems pretty straightforward)

Might shimming the spring with additional washers help?

Anyone with experience able to suggest anything?

[Bar Nuthin 2,564]

On 5/23/2026 at 8:31 PM, Tim.0 said:

so my assembly really needs be taken apart to work proper . the friction cone and b2 move together.

Mine has a small keyway for the cone. The cup has a flat spot where it fits into the side panel to keep it from rotating.

Edited 5 hours ago by Bar Nuthin