squonk 46,340 #1 Posted yesterday at 09:32 AM Restoring a tractor? Painting an engine? Watch this video on why you need to have clean metal (no paint) for your grounds and how it effects engine cranking, 4 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 12,023 #2 Posted yesterday at 10:19 AM The electric engine fan on our old 1989 Old Cutlass Ciera stopped working. It would always come on when the AC was switched on, but no more. Jump the connector & it works fine.... There was a long threaded stud on the lower front of the engine with about 4 stacked ground wires, a washer & nut. Ahha - it was a fuzzy white color, not shiny metal. disassembled the stack, cleaned both sides of all the lugs & mount, and reassembled. A good smear of dielectric grease over them, ploblem solved... Looks like it was a poor choice in the ground location, open to road splash. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 65,716 #3 Posted yesterday at 11:03 AM (edited) Unfortunately many people do not understand that an electrical circuit needs a return path to work. Electrons can't just flow out (potential energy) and do work, they need to go through the device (light, motor, etc.) and back to the battery to do work. Edited yesterday at 11:05 AM by 953 nut 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldlineman 1,697 #4 Posted yesterday at 11:36 AM That is the whole reason for Insulate and Isolate when we work safely on AC circuits. One of the first things we learned as apprentices. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 20,429 #5 Posted yesterday at 12:09 PM You can trust your mother not your ground.... 3 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 56,425 #6 Posted yesterday at 12:56 PM 2 hours ago, ri702bill said: it was a fuzzy white color I've got an a aluminum trailer and the lights always give problems. The lights are grounded to the frame with a self tapping screw and the dissimilar metals corrode the terminal rings. Would guess the same thing can happen on aluminum engine blocks. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,202 #7 Posted yesterday at 01:39 PM We had a K10 Chev Blazer come in with a noisy drivetrain. Every bearing in both front and rear axles, U-joints, differentials, transfer case and transmission had failed. Cause was a poor ground between the body and the battery. Current was flowing through the bearings to get to the engine which had a good ground. A very costly repair to a vehicle less than a year old. I should add that the cause was discovered before the damage was found. The technician had the radio on and when he removed one end of a drive shaft the radio quit. 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 46,340 #8 Posted yesterday at 01:43 PM 39 minutes ago, WHX?? said: I've got an a aluminum trailer and the lights always give problems. The lights are grounded to the frame with a self tapping screw and the dissimilar metals corrode the terminal rings. Would guess the same thing can happen on aluminum engine blocks. Had a real good one way back in 1980. Olds Omega with a manual trans. Under warranty came in with a broken clutch cable at the bellhousing. so I replaced it. Came back a month later with another broken cable. So I replaced it again. This time it looked like the cable was burnt. Turned out the negative cable at the bellhousing was loose 5 inches away from the cable. When starting an arc jumped between the cables and burned through the clutch cable. I have also seen choke and throttle cables glow on Wheel Horses! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 45,916 #9 Posted yesterday at 03:17 PM 2 hours ago, WHX?? said: dissimilar metals corrode I had a new 1970 Jeep Wagoneer that would just shut down while cruising along along at 65. I found thet it would restart if I disconnected and reconnected a multi pin connector located on top of the radiator. after several shut downs, I cut out the connector and connected each wire. Several months later I got a recall from Jeep to get the connector replaced. Seems the male pins were brass and the female sockets were aluminum. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Razorback 1,289 #10 Posted yesterday at 03:27 PM We have a 1981 Ford Bronco. I’m not sure how many model years are plagued by this, but I bet it’s several: the electric rear window is notorious for getting very slowwwwwwwwwwwwwww to go up and down, if at all. Happily, I fixed ours by cleaning up a ground point behind the rear left brake light housing. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldlineman 1,697 #11 Posted 6 hours ago 22 hours ago, WHX?? said: I've got an a aluminum trailer and the lights always give problems. The lights are grounded to the frame with a self tapping screw and the dissimilar metals corrode the terminal rings. Would guess the same thing can happen on aluminum engine blocks. Probably best fix for this problem is running a common ground from each load point back to the battery (power source). A little more work and cost but eliminates grounding problems. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 56,425 #12 Posted 5 hours ago 1 hour ago, oldlineman said: running a common ground from each load If I had to rewire the trailer that is exactly what I would do. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites