C145 will not start

[Joshyg 10]

My quad popped the chain so I put it back on, drove my tractor over to jump it and parked the tractor. I went back over an hour later and turned the key and voltage didn’t even show on the ammeter and wouldn’t engage the solenoid or anything.

Edited 20 hours ago by Joshyg

[squonk 46,244]

 A C145 I had  had a fuse buried in the harness between the ammeter and battery. If yours had one it may have blown.

[953 nut 65,530]

Probably the fuse as Mike suggested. If not, here is a step by step method of finding the faulty part without wasting money on parts you don't need.

Why won’t my starter turn over from the key switch?\

Lets take a logical step by step inspection of your starter problem.

Is your PTO in the ON position, a wheel horse will not start with the PTO on.

Have you had the battery load tested at an auto parts store?

Have you cleaned and tightened all electrical connections including grounds?

Are all fuses good and fuse holders cleaned?

If these have all been done, we can check components of the starting system as follows; don’t skip a step or you may miss the problem.

Be sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set.

Take a pair of automotive jumper cables and connect the black cable to your battery  "-" and a good clean spot on the engine. Now connect the other cable to the large post on the starter and touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal, does the starter turn over? If the starter turns over the battery and starter are good. If it didn't turn over try the same steps with the battery in your car/truck, if that cures the problem then the "good" battery wasn't so good.

Presuming the starter turned over move the jumper wire from the starter post to the other end of the wire going to the starter which is one of the large posts on the solenoid. If the starter turns over when the battery is touched by the jumper as before then that cable is good, if not you have found your problem.

Presuming the starter turned over move that jumper to the other terminal of the solenoid, connect the other end to the battery and use a small piece of wire to temporarily connect the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, this should cause the solenoid to close and the starter to turn over. If not, the solenoid is probably the problem.

If this was successful remove the large jumper cable and use the small jumper wire to the small terminal of the solenoid, the solenoid should close and the starter turn over. If not the cable to the battery is the problem.

Presuming all of these have been successful remove the black jumper wire and repeat the small jumper to small terminal, if the starter turns over the ground is good.

If all of these components test good then remove your ignition switch, be sure the transmission is in neutral, parking brake on, clutch depressed and PTO off. Use a small jumper to connect the terminals that were connected to the “B” and “S” terminals of the ignition switch. If the starter turns over then the PTO switch and other safety switches are operating properly and your ignition switch may be bad.

Edited 19 hours ago by 953 nut
fat finger

[SylvanLakeWH 31,215]

32 minutes ago, squonk said:

 A C145 I had  had a fuse buried in the harness between the ammeter and battery. If yours had one it may have blown.

 

Just happened to my C-125...

[953 nut 65,530]

When a fuse blows for no explainable reason it is likely that the fuse holder is corroded causing a poor connection, resulting in increased current and overheating.

[squonk 46,244]

I'm thinking it blew when he used the tractor to jump start the quad

[cafoose 3,706]

Working on an old Ford Ranger the fuse kept blowing for the AC fan every time I turned it on. I traced wiring, connectors, everything I could find in the whole circuit that would cause a short and found nothing. I put a fuse in the next size up and it's been working ever since for several years. Once I was working on a '99 Suburban that would not start with a fully charged battery. The starter and all wiring looked good. The battery cable to the starter was severely corroded under the insulation not visible from the outside. Replaced the cable and all was good. Thinking when wiring gets so old the resistance increases which blows fuses more quickly  Maybe the Ranger has minimal corrosion in the wiring causing the factory recommended fuse to blow 

[squonk 46,244]

More resistance lowers the amps so no that will not make a fuse blow. It can cause heat though and cause the fuse to melt

[Joshyg 10]

7 hours ago, squonk said:

 A C145 I had  had a fuse buried in the harness between the ammeter and battery. If yours had one it may have blown.

Would this fuse be a 20 or 25 amp fuse

[SylvanLakeWH 31,215]

12 minutes ago, Joshyg said:

Would this fuse be a 20 or 25 amp fuse

Mine was a 25. (Same on both my C-105 and a C-125).

[Joshyg 10]

Mine is a 20

[SylvanLakeWH 31,215]

4th page of download 

 

[953 nut 65,530]

3 hours ago, Joshyg said:

Would this fuse be a 20 or 25 amp fuse

One potential cause for4 the fuse blowing could be the AMP Meter, they have been known to short out. If the fuse continues to blow with a 25 amp one remove the wires from the Amp Meter, bolt them together and put some electrical tape over the junction of these wires.

 

The primary purpose of the fuse is to protect the wiring in the event of a short circuit, you should use a 25 amp fuse but if all you have it would be alright to step up to a 30 amp.

[Joshyg 10]

I did everything you said above and the only time it wouldn’t turn over was when I used the wire to connect the B and S wires so does that mean the part that connects to the ignition switch is bad or the pto switch or seat switch 

[953 nut 65,530]

14 minutes ago, Joshyg said:

I did everything you said above and the only time it wouldn’t turn over was when I used the wire to connect the B and S wires so does that mean the part that connects to the ignition switch is bad or the pto switch or seat switch The seat switch has nothing to do with the starter. Be sure the clutch is depressed and the PTO is OFF   PTO switches changed during the five year run of the C 105 model so we will need a bit more information to make a correct diagnoses.  

Not all Wheel Horse C 145s are wired alike, can you provide the model number on yours?   Below is a list of the possibilities,

11 14KE01

10 14KE04

01 14KE03

01 14KE02

01 14K802

01 14KE01

01 14KS01

Connecting the "B" and "S" terminals in the harness that connects to the ignition switch replicates turning the switch to the start position.

While you have the ignition switch out If you have an electrical meter test the ignition switch by using the lowest resistance setting placing one probe on the "S" and one on the "B" terminal (may need a helper to do this) turn the key switch to the START position and see if the meter responds. It should show no resistance when turned.

[Joshyg 10]

It’s the 01-14ks01 1980 automatic and the brake pedal switch was cut by the previous owner and I don’t know where those go

Edited 7 hours ago by Joshyg

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