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ineedanother

16 Auto with welded hub

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ineedanother

I figured I would start a new thread here since I've never seen this before. This 16 auto came in a package deal as a bit of a bonus IMO. It's nearly original, smoke-free k341, straight metal, hydraulics work but the lift cylinder leaks and I haven't investigated that yet. The biggest issue is that a slipping hub was welded to the axle :crying-yellow:. It should be a 10 pinion LSD and has 1 1/8" axles. I have a spare gearbox on the shelf but want to see how bad this axle actually is...

 

IMG_2574.jpg

IMG_2575.jpg

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

10 pinion LSD

 

That was the changeover year. 

Might have a standard 8 speed open differential.  

 

 

5 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

biggest issue is that a slipping hub was welded to the axle

 

Carefully cut your existing hub off. 

Get a clamp on hub from Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA.  

 

 

 

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ri702bill
45 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

The biggest issue is that a slipping hub

The second issue is that it has an "all-or-nuttin" electric clutch. Not my favorite.....

Grind off that booger-snot weld & remove the hub to see how bad the axle is......

Edited by ri702bill
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ineedanother
15 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

The second issue is that it has an "all-or-nuttin" electric clutch. Not my favorite.....

Grind off that booger-snot weld & remove the hub to see how bad the axle is......

Agreed. I have another auto that had been converted away from the electric clutch and I was fine with that, but I have to say that this came with a FEL and the clutch seems to be ideal for that. On or off. Smooth.

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ri702bill
10 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

nd the clutch seems to be ideal for that. On or off. Smooth.

Probably the only implement you can say that about!! The engagement is usually too harsh.

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midpack

I love the soft start module on my electric PTO, I got it before the cost went crazy

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ineedanother

Some 24 grit grinding got me down to the axle but whoever did this evidently did quite a bit to chamfer the inside of the hub to lay a bunch of weld in there. I'm about to put the puller on it and see what gives. I'm thinking there won't be much to save given what I see at this point.

IMG_2579.jpg

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ineedanother

I don't have my big impact driver here so I might just put the wheels back on and go pop some wheelies :auto-dirtbike:

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ebinmaine

Get a metal blade in ya sawzall and go at it. 

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ineedanother

Well, I pulled the set screw, there was no key there so I spun the wheels and it broke loose. Now to look and see what I've got...

IMG_2580.jpg

Edited by ineedanother
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ineedanother

It cam right off once it was broken loose and is pretty much what I expected, but was hoping I wouldn't find. Unsalvageable axle. 

IMG_2581.jpg

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ebinmaine
10 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

Unsalvageable axle

 

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Get a clamp on hub from Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA. 

 

 

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WHX??

:text-yeahthat:I would think a A-Z clamp on might work on that. Sure he don't give them away but you figure by the time you find a replacement and taking it all apart??? Weld the hole shut file smooth?? 

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ineedanother
15 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

:text-yeahthat:I would think a A-Z clamp on might work on that. Sure he don't give them away but you figure by the time you find a replacement and taking it all apart??? Weld the hole shut file smooth?? 

I think I would give A-Z a shot if I didn't have another one sitting right here but swapping it out is hard to argue against since that one has been rebuilt. I know what I have now which was today's exercise. 

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Bar Nuthin

I had bad axles on my C-120 Auto. I used the clamp on hubs as a repair, but they too eventually began to slip - while doing some heavy plowing.

 

I ended up replacing the differential assembly (w/good axles). A member here had some spares and made me a good deal.

Was an easy fix. You can remove the RH transaxle casing (on the tractor) while leaving all the gears in place.

I went ahead and installed new axle seals while I was at it. And, of course, you'll need to replace at least one hub.

Edited by Bar Nuthin
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ineedanother
2 hours ago, midpack said:

I love the soft start module on my electric PTO, I got it before the cost went crazy

I've not seen that and would be interested if you have any current insight...

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ineedanother
2 minutes ago, Bar Nuthin said:

I had bad axles on my C-120 Auto. I used the clamp on hubs as a repair, but they too eventually began to slip - while doing some heavy plowing.

 

I ended up replacing the differential assembly (w/good axles). A member here had some spares and made me a good deal.

Was an easy fix. You can remove the RH transaxle casing without while leaving all the gears in place.

I went ahead and installed new axle seals while I was at it. And, of course, you'll need to replace at least one hub.

Yeah, I think I actually have bearings and seals here which is why I was hoping the axle was salvageable. I have a milling machine at work and could have cut a new keyway in that axle had it not been butchered to this extent.

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