265-6/72045 starting issues

[Snelly1985 2]

I'm at about my wits end on this issue I'm struggling to resolve. It all began while mowing my yard, when my PTO deck shut off.  I came to a stop then shut off the switch, then turned it back on, and nothing....at first.  After a few seconds, it kicked off again. Did a repeat of actions and after a delay, it started up again; however, this time when it cut out, the engine started misfiring till it eventually just shut down.  After some googling, it leaned toward either a weak battery, or malfunctioning PTO clutch that was killing the battery almost instantly.  I also saw that if it was the latter situation, that sometimes it can overheat the PTO switch, to the point of being useless. Right or wrong, my next step was to bypass the PTO clutch connection.  This still did not allow the tractor to fire up.  Then, to eliminate some of the other possibilities that were mentioned online, I went ahead and ordered a new oem key switch, solenoid, and PTO switch while I had the battery charging  (even though only a year old and was still about 12.8 volts prior to charging). I installed the new parts one at a time to see if anything made a difference, but to no avail.  Finally, I was able to locate the wiring schematic online and replaced the 3 fuses (even though they weren't blown), and started testing/bypassing the safety switches. The schematic only shows 4 switches in the circuit, plus the PTO switch; however, mine had 2 neutral switches (schematic shows 1) for a total 5 switches & PTO switch. In the end, I managed to create a closed circuit that went to the seat switch, to the brake switch, parking brake switch and both neutral switches with a reading of 12.8 volts at each bypass. I can't remember the name at the moment, but I also replaced small rectangular, aluminum part that had a plug going to it at the same time as the other parts. I don't know what I did at one point in this process, but I did manage to get it to start, but then I couldn't shut off with the key (old ignition switch). I cleaned up the engine ground surface and replaced the connections with new.  I don't know if it's some sort of ground issue, or it has something to do with having those 2 neutral switches instead of 1, or what. Maybe I should take another stab at it by replacing the "kill relay", maybe "switch relay" as well, just to eliminate those possible problems. I'm totally at a loss for things to try at this point; and any advice would be a blessing.  Process of elimination hasn't seemed to bear any fruit yet.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,104]

Welcome to Red Square.

Have you seen the wiring diagrams where each circuit has it's own diagram? Makes diagnosis easier.

Double check the ignition switch with the one in the main diagram. Terminal identities and location are important. Although the tractor has magneto ignition it also uses a battery type of ignition switch to control a kill relay to turn the ignition on and off.

Click on the picture of the tractor in this ink to see the diagram and download the 5-page file.

We may also have pin-out diagrams for the individual switches to show how they should function. Look through them all as they are in a random order in this link.

Also noticed the start and kill relays are the same part so a swap may help with diagnosis.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=72045&quick=1&type=downloads_file

 

Keep us posted on your thoughts.

 

[Ed Kennell 45,577]

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[Achto 31,467]

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I do not own this model but based on other Wheel Horses I suspect that the fuse holders are located near the battery. If one of the fuse holders has become corroded due to fumes from the battery over time it will become a poor conductor of electricity and could be your problem.