Dimensions needed for Mid Mount Grader Blade Bracket

[Chrishar 984]

Looks good and great work I just hope mine  turns out that good  

[BradKahler 297]

I had to pause working on the grader blade due to the sale of a motorhome.  I had a lot of prep to deal with the sale.  Anyway I'm now back working the blade.  The pivot shaft is now tack welded to the sector plate which enabled me to mount the assembly on the tractor.  Before I go any further, does the angle of the blade look correct?  It's sitting on the ground on the floor.  There isn't a whole lot I can do if it isn't right other than drill new holes in the blade.  

 

On the overall length of the blade, this one is 48" and it seems that the original would  have been 42".  I think I've seen 50" listed somewhere but I could be wrong on that.  Is 48" going to be to much of a blade for the B80 or B100?

 

Thanks!

 

Brad

 

[Handy Don 16,400]

Nice work there!

 

That blade angle at the bottom edge will do its best at mild scraping plus spreading/leveling and even with 48” an 8 or 10 it will manage fine. It will not be much use on unbroken soil/gouging which is just as well ‘cause for that you’d need some extra oomph anyway! (And remember, pressing down too much on the blade with your feet helps the blade but lessens the weight on the wheels and can cause wheel spin!)

 

Another good idea is to avoid heavy uneven loading while it is in use. Excessive pull on one end will try to torque the mid-hitch/frame. 

 

The longer WH blades are mounted to the rear axle, similar to a front blade. They can be more aggressive since they tend to dig in when under load where the mid-mount blades tend to lift when under load.

[BradKahler 297]

3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Nice work there!

 

That blade angle at the bottom edge will do its best at mild scraping plus spreading/leveling and even with 48” an 8 or 10 it will manage fine. It will not be much use on unbroken soil/gouging which is just as well ‘cause for that you’d need some extra oomph anyway! (And remember, pressing down too much on the blade with your feet helps the blade but lessens the weight on the wheels and can cause wheel spin!)

 

Another good idea is to avoid heavy uneven loading while it is in use. Excessive pull on one end will try to torque the mid-hitch/frame. 

 

The longer WH blades are mounted to the rear axle, similar to a front blade. They can be more aggressive since they tend to dig in when under load where the mid-mount blades tend to lift when under load.

 

Thanks for the info.  The main reason I wanted a grader blade is to deal with the gravel on my 1500' driveway.  It tends to mount up on the outside edges and what I'm hoping to do is set the blade at an angle and slowly pull the gravel back onto the driveway with the blade.  The dozer blade doesn't work well for that application so I'm h oping this solves my gravel spreading problem.  I suppose this could cause the torquing of the blade you mentioned, but I hoping that since it is loose gravel it won't be a big issue.  

 

[Handy Don 16,400]

3 hours ago, BradKahler said:

I suppose this could cause the torquing of the blade you mentioned, but I hoping that since it is loose gravel it won't be a big issue.  

It is, but if you take small bites, it should be fine. (More seat time, too!) 😉