pfrederi 20,261 #26 Posted Wednesday at 02:01 PM Stator looks correct. Yellow wire is for your head lights. The dark wire should be for charging. Peel back the sleeve from the connector end yo should find the diode. That wire needs to get to the ignition switch A terminal or R terminal Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Railboy 12 #27 Posted Wednesday at 08:31 PM pfrederi, is the below Kohler Stator Trouble Shooting Guide the one I need to go by and use for the Stator that is already on the Tractor? I am going to double check things, that is for sure. But yes, thank you for the help, so this is my next question for I am inquisitive to clear it up. The Diode as you said goes to the A Accessory White Wire Rectifier Input on the Ignition. Correct? This is on the Wiring Diagram. Kohler Stator Trouble Shooting Guide I found on the RedSquare Site, which I think is for mine??? Follows... Also, I can do the lead to lead test of the Stator, but have a question if it is accurate for grounding, for I see two winds tied together and anchored to the Green Plate with a flat-head screw on the Stator that is grounding I would think??? Why the question if the Trouble Shooting Guide is accurate for mine? This is the 3b. section. See, the Stator is grounded out to the block, which is to the chassis for test 3b and will fail it, Correct? And also, read that between the leads of the Stator, in one direction with a continuity meter it can have the .1-.2 Ohms. but in the opposed direction, not, the leads will show an "open" circuit? I think I have my thoughts comprehensible with that of the Stator Image and in contrast to the below Guide. Which to me is baffling regarding the "Chassis Grounding" test??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 20,261 #28 Posted Thursday at 12:09 AM 3 hours ago, Railboy said: pfrederi, is the below Kohler Stator Trouble Shooting Guide the one I need to go by and use for the Stator that is already on the Tractor? I am going to double check things, that is for sure. But yes, thank you for the help, so this is my next question for I am inquisitive to clear it up. The Diode as you said goes to the A Accessory White Wire Rectifier Input on the Ignition. Correct? This is on the Wiring Diagram. Kohler Stator Trouble Shooting Guide I found on the RedSquare Site, which I think is for mine??? Follows... Also, I can do the lead to lead test of the Stator, but have a question if it is accurate for grounding, for I see two winds tied together and anchored to the Green Plate with a flat-head screw on the Stator that is grounding I would think??? Why the question if the Trouble Shooting Guide is accurate for mine? This is the 3b. section. See, the Stator is grounded out to the block, which is to the chassis for test 3b and will fail it, Correct? And also, read that between the leads of the Stator, in one direction with a continuity meter it can have the .1-.2 Ohms. but in the opposed direction, not, the leads will show an "open" circuit? I think I have my thoughts comprehensible with that of the Stator Image and in contrast to the below Guide. Which to me is baffling regarding the "Chassis Grounding" test??? Wrong guide you do not have a 15 amp stator. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Railboy 12 #29 Posted yesterday at 12:07 PM (edited) pfrederi, I am not certain of the Stator in the engine at this time, I have never seen it. But the Engine is on a 1987 Wheel Horse M10 Platform. So, in regards to that, are there any test I can do with the Engine Off, Engine/Tractor Connector Disconnected and I can do test with the Engine Connector to the Stator? See, that way I can also test out the new Stator I have. And if there is an I.D. method there, we will know for sure what Stator I have in the Engine Currently. But here you go. During the Engine Start, I blow the 15 amp. fuse. So, I am not sure of how to conduct the Guide that is above Test's? Why I am looking for an Engine Off, and Disconnected Engine Connector Test Guide? Thank you for your help, and hope you are having a good day, and everyone, thank you for helping. Note- Bet the Stator Leads got reversed.... Why I like to test with Engine Off, at the Connector the Stator Leads again to see if it is fried? But also, can do as I said above, test the new stator for certainty that it is fine before install. Yea I am currently using the tractor, grass season is here. Edited yesterday at 12:51 PM by Railboy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 20,261 #30 Posted yesterday at 12:53 PM Since the engine runs after the fuse blows you can do the tests above. You can test your new stator #3 and # 4 Use the metal ring of the stator as the ground. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Railboy 12 #31 Posted yesterday at 01:02 PM pfrederi, do you know if you can take the sheathing off to the diode on the tractor with the Shroud on? That way I can trace the wires... But also, know if the Charing Side(Diode) if I got it right is connected to the White Wire Rectifier at the Ignition Side first before Testing. But yes, guess leave the Fuse alone if I do the test and real quick question for I do not know. Will the Engine continue to run with out the Positive Battery Cable Connected to the battery? Some cars do, but some do not is why I am asking on the M10? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 20,261 #32 Posted yesterday at 01:23 PM A magneto engine will run with no battery Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clueless 3,388 #33 Posted yesterday at 03:30 PM Disconnect your test light switch and the oil switch, looks like they are the only two things that would blow the 15amp fuse. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Railboy 12 #34 Posted 21 hours ago (edited) Clueless, with the Engine Connector Plugged up to the Tractor, is there not a ground on either of the Stator Wires grounding out the Fuse? Why I say this, is the Ignition is still part of the equation and can be in the circuit for the charging circuit. Which is fused in, correct? By the way, I think we are way-over-thinking this. I just have two wires to hook-up, so trace them and be done, while putting in the new ignition switch, to make sure that is not a short. Edited 20 hours ago by Railboy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 19,734 #35 Posted 19 hours ago The ignition is not part of the charging system Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Railboy 12 #36 Posted 3 hours ago wallfish, I had read that at times internally the ignition can go bad, conducting a cross-over. Something I read in the threads.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 20,261 #37 Posted 2 hours ago Have you run the stator tests on the engine yet??? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 19,734 #38 Posted 17 minutes ago 1 hour ago, Railboy said: wallfish, I had read that at times internally the ignition can go bad, conducting a cross-over. Something I read in the threads.... Which would still have nothing to do with the charging system in a magneto ignition engine. The only problem is the engine wouldn't run with a bad magneto "conducting a cross-over" so it can't spin the magnets for the stator to work. That's about the only connection. You've also read they have nothing to do with each other so please do the diagnostics necessary to determine what is correct and what isn't. Maybe the confusion here is with a battery ignition which could possibly short and cause charging issues with a stator. IDK Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
