Ok, New Topic, Wheel Horse Rectifier Ignition?

[Railboy 8]

Hello and yes, another thread under Electrical.

 

I did get the Wheel Horse out today and grass cut, but of course if you know

that I have been working on it, I have been studying the Electrical Diagrams 

of a 1987 Wheel Horse 310-8.

 

Here is my question, which wire on the diagram "Charges the Battery?  Dark Blue Wire or Tan Wire?

 

I am looking for a voltage regulator or rectifier of some sort and want to collaborate what the diagram says, that is

the ignition has a rectifier built in?   I have read this on the net and the net says the ignition has a built in rectifier in it, so wanting to confirm mine.

 

Why, if the ignition switch has a rectifier, I will not over charge the battery.  Is this true?  Or is there a component I am missing that needs

a wire for charging the battery and this is in the diagram and I am over looking it or a wire?

 

And yes, some work has or will be having done to the electrical, I just want to have everything in mind taken care of before I dive iny.  And yes, over-charging the battery is a 

concern if the other work plays out correct, illuminating a short-circuit, which I will do continuity checks to find out about.

 

Thank you for your help.

Edited 14 hours ago by Railboy

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,060]

The white wire charges the battery through the ignition switch. The diode is on the Kohler side of the connector. Feel the wire for a small lump that is likely taped over - that is the diode rectifier. No regulator because in theory the stator will not put out enough current to overcharge a battery but we have seen it happen. Keep an eye on the voltmeter.

[wallfish 19,493]

I believe it's the white wire from the engine. A 3 amp charge circuit does NOT have an external regulator/rectifier.

That Magnum engine uses a diode in the wire to achieve the rectifier from AC to DC. The key switch doesn't have ANY circuitry in it, just contacts to direct current and ground.

 

A rectifier - converts the AC current produced by the stator into DC current

A regulator - regulates the current for charging a battery to prevent over charging

The ignition circuit has nothing to do with the charging circuit and vise versa

Starting circuit has nothing to to with either

Consider them 3 independent circuits that run through 1 common key switch. 

 

[Railboy 8]

Ok guys, thank you for the answers.  I have been worried that in doing the following if you have not seen my other "Electrical" thread already this is what

I am up to.  This post I have a feeling may be a little long...

 

I had the engine rebuilt over the winter, and in doing so the "Oil Sender" was taken out do to it is made of plastic and could break causing 

internal engine damage.

 

Ok, I know I have said it and repeating it now, but for the new people, since I do not have the Oil Sender nor its Positive Circuit of the Dark Blue Wire

Connected to the Light Blue Wire, is to mimic the Oil Sender by putting in a Jumper Wire.

 

This jumper wire as I was told to do will be connecting the Purple at the Solenoid to the Light Blue Wire, which the Light Blue Wire ties into the Tan Wire to the ignition.

 

So, have this question, if I am by-passing the Dark Blue Wire, am I getting rid of a circuit that does anything?  Why I am into this post's descriptions.

 

See, I do not have the relay that the Orange, Purple, Dark Blue, or Tan Wires run into.  It was taken out by a previous owner and I do not have a seat

switch, which I guess is why the relay was taken out.  Also, the Clutch and PTO now tie into the only relay I have, the Short Purple Wire Relay.

 

But to wrap this up, I was told when I do put the Jumper Wire in between the Purple Wire and Light Blue Wire, to take out the Relay the Short Purple Wire

goes to from the Solenoid, for it is by-passed.

 

So, that is why I have the question now of the Dark Blue, with no relays and the Dark Blue Wire omitted from the tractor, is this ok as long as my continuity checks

of the 15 Amp. Fuse Red Wire Check out against the chassis(-)?  I have been blowing the 15 Amp. Fuse, and the tractor starts when the fuse blows(do to grounding),

but, you have to replace the 15 amp. fuse every time when starting.  And this development started once the engine was put back in, with out the Oil Sender.

 

So, does the Jumper work out for ya'll and I will keep my "Normal" charging System Operational of the Battery?  And do not worry about the Dark Blue Wire?

 

Also, On the Kohler side of the connector, I have a Black, Yellow and White Wire.  The Blue's, the light blue and dark blue wires were cut off at the oil sender

and prongs removed from the Kolher's Side of the Connector.

 

So more or less the question, do I need to do anything with the Dark Blue Wire to repeat myself or just over-look it when I do the jumper of Purple and Light Blue?

 

Sorry for the rambling, what I stated makes since to me, but I am a Newbie at Wheel Horse Electrical Diagrams, and plus taken direction for the Wheel Horse did

great all last year's grass season, just drank oil but since putting the engine back on with out the Oil Sender and no wires from it, this has been taken place and how

to fix it has been pointed out to me.  And thank y'all for the advise, I have yet to have anything melt, there are no pinched wires or chaffed wires, but getting a ground

to the 15 amp. fuse red wire and trying to illuminate it with out upsetting the tractor.  And to pass it along, I did find a ground at the relay, at the short purple wire.

 

Oh, after rereading this post, I do have a last question about the Stator and Magneto.  When I do a continuity check between the 15 amp. fuse Red Wire, can it

ground out continuity wise with either the stator and magneto with no cables to the battery?  I do not know much on how stators and magnetos are wired.

 

Thank you for your help, sorry for the long post.   Just trying to get my chores layed out before me before diving in on how to go about solving the above.

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,060]

Compare the wiring diagram above to this one. The dark blue wire to the oil lamp has been removed along with the battery power red to the low oil light.

Magnetos are self-powered. The ignition wire simply grounds the magneto to shut it off. Do not allow any battery voltage to get to that ignition wire. It will release the magneto magic smoke.