1987 Wheel Horse 310-8 15 Amp. Fuse Blowing after Oil Sender Removed

[Railboy 8]

Hello, I was advised to start a New Thread here at "Wheel Horse Electrical" for my 1987 Wheel Horse 310-8 Model #211OK04 on my blowing a 15 amp. fuse situation.

 

I am Blowing the 15 amp. fuse that is part of the Charging Circuit at time of Start-Up but the Tractor Runs on its Magneto fine, but the Stator

for it has that as well, is not charging do to the Blown Fuse that is part of that circuit and the Voltmeter stays at 8 Volts bottomed out when the engine is running.

 

I am getting continuity between the 15 amp. fuse Circuit and Chassis.  Also, been told I need to put in a Jumper Wire to Mimic that the 

Oil Sender is in the Engine, but was taken out at time of Rebuild over the winter do to the Oil Sender is made of Plastic and can break causing

internal Engine Damage.  The engine ran fine all last year's grass season but drank oil like big time.  Why the rebuild...

 

So, below is my wiring diagram for the Tractor and please follow for I have not melted any wires or shortened anything out, it is that I am and want to be

verified on what I am doing in that I have learned through the forums being a Newbie, that the diagram show all wires as "Positive" unless the Negative Symbol

is illustrated.

 

So, this is what I have been told to do under my original post at "Wheel Horse Tractors" when I was identifying my Tractor and learning at first on what to do on the Fuse?

 

Here is the diagram to follow:

 

 

And I was told to do this...  Simply go to the Solenoid's 1/4" Nut Wiring Post were the Purple Wire Picks up,  then Tie that into the Light Blue Wire

by-passing all the relays to have power to the ignition.  This way I am mimicking the Oil Sender existence and have power looped to the ignition

completing the charging circuit at the same time, and by-passing all the relays and there Safety Switches.  This will illuminate my grounding for the relay

after my Solenoid is grounded out to the chassis at its mounting point(bolted).

 

I do not have the Relay that the Tan Wire ties into, the what I call, the Seat/Clutch Relay. Also the Clutch Safety Switch on my tractor currently from what I

gathered looking at the tractor, the Clutch Safety Switch goes to the only relay I have, after the Solenoid. Which now, I will be connecting the Purple to Light Blue Wire

going to the ignition I have totally illuminated all electrical Safety Switches do to relays are yanked out for there by-passed because the

Purple Wire and Light Blue Wires are tied together?

 

So in theory is this, I will have no relays to worry about grounding out anything and all wiring is Positively charged at time of Running.  And in doing so,

the 15 amp. fuse should hold?  This is do to that there is no more grounding points for the 15 amp. fuse as I follow the diagram is what

I gather and reading the electrical diagram correctly?

 

Thank ya'll for your time.  I am a Newbie, and the Tractor cut grass with no issues all last year.  But since putting the engine back in

with out the Oil Sender, the Fuse issue has been a pain to deal with.  I have been in a crash course on the Wheel Horse's Diagrams and Learning Curve.  

But thanks to ya'll, I think I know what I have stated here and all makes since and past directions from other members are working out,

I should not fry anything if this thread is accurate and I am following the diagram correctly????

 

One last thing to add, the reason for the Jumper Wire is to mimic power going through the Oil Sender, and when the Oil Sender reads low oil or no oil

it passes along a negative pole.  So this is why I need the jumper, for currently I have an open but yet dead circuit, nothing going into it what so ever?

 

Thank you, maybe the Electrical Peeps are out there, and can correct or give me some feedback before I go to work on the tractor.  I do have a little time,

as I said the tractor runs currently,  just not charging, and it will be a few days before I need to use it.  

 

 

Edited 8 hours ago by Railboy

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,052]

Here is a diagram modified to suit your application with no low oil switch. 

 

 

[Railboy 8]

So do this diagram and it involves the "Clutch Neutral Safety Switch" Relay?

 

Thing is, I do not have that relay already.  When the Electrical Seat Safety Switch was taken out,

I guess they got rid of that relay for the "Clutch Neutral Safety Switch" now ties into my only Relay I have,

the one after the Solenoid.  

 

And this Relay will be taken out during the Jumper Wire By-Pass of the Purple Wire and Light Blue?  

 

Totally even getting rid of the use and possible activation of the "Clutch Neutral Safety Switch" interaction?

 

Thank you for your response and diagram.  Just looks like I am going to tie together the Purple Wire after the

Solenoid and Light Blue Wire at the Connector of the engine.   This is where my "Jumper" will be.

Edited 7 hours ago by Railboy

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,052]

You do not have any relays left - you removed the only relay the tractor ever had. The solenoid is a type of relay but it is not called that.

The clutch neutral safety switch is just that a switch. Clutch pedal down the switch closes and powers the solenoid providing it gets power from the pto start switch with the pto off.

I think your thinking is backwards.

Power goes from the solenoid battery cable side to the fuse to the ignition switch. It is the ignition switch that sends power to the pto switches, clutch switch and on to the solenoid.

The solenoid is mounted to the chassis sheet metal so that mounting grounds the solenoid. Power in on the small solenoid terminal actives the solenoid. The starter motor should then run.

Make sure you connect the correct light blue wire to the purple. Needs to be the blue wire coming from the clutch switch.

 

The diagrams call the clutch switch a neutral clutch switch and here is why.

In reality the clutch switch is used on models with a gear transmission. The clutch pedal must be down for the switch to close.

In reality the neutral switch is used on models with a hydro transmission. The motion control must be in neutral for the switch to close.

 

I do not know what you are calling a relay. There is nothing but switches on the revised diagram.

[Railboy 8]

The Purple Wire runs to a relay.

 

And the Orange Wire runs to a relay.

 

When I by-pass with a jumper from Purple to Light Blue I will

have a complete circuit.  If I have this correct?

 

Thing here is I am by-passing the Orange Wire's Relay for the Light Blue

Ties into the Tan Wire to the Ignition.  True?

 

And then I have no more relays for all of them are by-passed?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,052]

Look at the diagram. Where do you see a relay?

 

A relay is a device that acts as an electromagnetic switch to control circuits.

[Railboy 8]

I mentioned it.

 

The Relay's on my tractor are like the Relays on a Saab, and other cars ect.

There the little black boxes 1.25"X1.25"X1.25' Box Squares that have connectors plugged 

into them..

 

There is one at the Orange Wire tying in, and One at the Purple Wire Tying in.

 

This is on the diagram.

 

I am not talking of the Starter Solenoid.

Edited 6 hours ago by Railboy

[702854boy 558]

Pictures would also help with figuring out your problem