Which Year Wheel Horse I have and 310-8 on Hood?

[Railboy 1]

Hello, I have a what I think is a 1986 Wheel Horse 310-8 Lawn Tractor that did wonders last year.  Thing is I ran into a problem this year

and trying to solve a riddle of electrical issues with it do to the engine was serviced.  Thing is this, please read below...

 

I was told at time of purchase it was a Wheel Horse 310-8 with a Magnum 10 Horse Power.  And since then, I have learned through electical

diagrams that maybe it is actually a 1987 Wheel Horse 310-8 but with a Stator and Magneto.

 

But what has happened with will be going into the electrical section of the site later, is that I have a color code issue with a wiring diagram I have

that the diagram shows Dark Blue wires going to the engine, but on my engine, where the connector picks up going into the Stator, mine meaning

the Lawn Tractor has a Yellow Lead going into the Stator behind the Fly Wheel Tin.  But in the Wiring Diagram I have, it shows all Dark Blue

going to the Stator.

 

So, thing is this, is there another wiring diagram out there with Yellow wires running in either the 1986 or 1987 Models with the Stator and Magneto?

 

If so, I like to see them, I can down load or use the site to follow, but down loading with be great for I am not 100% convinced I have the correct diagram

for it shows Dark Blue wires running around and into the Stator, and at the Stator Connector, mine on the Stator side of the connector, picks-up as Yellow,

which is not on my diagram.

 

Thank you for your time, and yes, having an issue with Blowing a 15 Amp. Fuse, which is on my current diagram, which is what was in the unit at time

of purchase and all last season with no issue.   

 

All help will be greatly appreciated in either confirming the year, diagram and or current set-up. Dug into the mower today today, and did not get anywhere but questions, and yes, I have read through the forums, but with no luck.  Trying to find out why my 15 amp. fuse holder is grounding out and frying fuses at time of starting.  Runs, but fuse fries so no battery charging though stator, and magneto charges so that supplies spark plug power.

 

Have not melted any wires yet either.  But one step at a time, first ID the year but I do know it is a 310-8 with the Magnum 10 Horse Power, Plus- Stator used and Magneto.

 

Thank you for your help and reading...

[JCM 10,883]

 to   Someone will be along to help you out.  

[oliver2-44 11,284]

Tractor wiring diagrams typically show the wire color of the wires provided by the tractor manufacture.

Wires provided by the engine manufactor are typical a different color that the tractor wires.

There is usually a plastic connector where these wires change color.

I have seen white or yellow wires coming from a Kohler stator.

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,037]

Will guess you have a 1987 model 21-10K804.

The engine wiring was supplied by Kohler so not illustrated in the Wheel Horse diagrams.

Going to the Kohler service manual found their diagram.

The magneto is self-powered and the lone ignition wire to the ignition switch grounds the magneto to shut it off. Do not allow any battery voltage into the ignition wire. The wiring diagram shows a diode to protect the magneto but have never seen one.

The yellow wire should connect to the dark green that provides AC to the lights only.

Added tractor wiring to engine wiring

 

 

[rjg854 12,875]

     @Railboy

[Railboy 1]

Hello, I have or had planned to get into the "Electrical Forums" section of the site to find out a question, but looks that some

of ya'll have gathered here since we are talking electrical plus finding out that I do indeed have a 1987 Wheel Horse 310-8

through the model number under the seat.

 

So, to ask, is it often and also do to age, that the relay that follows the fuse which on my 1987 is a 15 amp. fuse also indicated by

my diagram I have from an engine builder, that the relay has failed?  

 

Just wondering how often ya'll have seen the relays to go out, or "stick" inside?  I have a grounding out of the positive lead from

the battery to the 15 amp. fuse, thus blowing it.

 

Let me know how to precede, I plan today to gather off the relay I see the fuse going to, its ID Relay Model Number to order one today.

 

Also, do most of ya'll just browse the internet for parts?  Meaning random venders?

 

Thank you for ya'lls time and last night's updates on info and all and thank you for the welcome.  

[Lee1977 7,593]

According to the 1987 310 wire degram. The dark Blue wire is the kill wire to the magne termal on key switch. the white wire is DC to accsories termal on  key switch.  The other wire is AC goes to the head light switch.

[Railboy 1]

On average how often does the "Key Switch" go bad?  Also, the "Rectifier" and the starter "Solenoid" go bad?

 

Just wondering why I had a good season with it, not blowing a 15 amp. fuse, and now it is?

 

It does have a 5 amp. fuse, which is staying fine.

 

Thank ya'll for ya'll's input.  And yes, I know I have not gone to the "Electrical Section" yet, but this General Section 

I am getting some great input.  Thank ya'll for that.

[953 nut 64,485]

According to the diagrams the 15 Amp fuse feeds power to the ignition switch and the test switch for the low oil test light. If you have a good 15 amp fuse in place and pushing the test switch eliminates the oil level light then the wires from the battery through the fuse all the way to the light appear to be good. 

Typically the low oil relay only receives power to its coil if the oil level is very low. With sufficient oil level, the ignition switch is in the start position with the PTO off and the clutch pedal depressed the solenoid should closer and the starter turn over. 

Could a 38 year old relay develop an internal fault, yes it could but it is much more likely that the insulation on a wire has become compromised.

At what point in your operation does the fuse blow?   Is it related to the oil level being low? Is it when the key is placed in start without the clutch being depressed? Is it when the clutch is depressed with the key in start?  The more specific you can be t5he greater the likelihood we can help diagnose it long distance.

Your low oil relay should be a metal can type relay, part # 106833, which has three terminals. There was a service bulletin changing over to the typical automotive five terminal relay at some point, see below.

 

[Railboy 1]

To be on the up and up, everything worked fine up till I had the engine "Freshed-Up".  I had it rebuilt for I was going through a Quart of Oil every

like 4 hours of use.

 

So, the Fuse started to blow at time of engine being put back in.  Thing is that was altered, and should be fine, is the "Low Oil Sender" was pulled

out and wires cut.  So, I have no "Negative" lead going to the rest of the Diagram.  And, though the way I understand it, the "Low Oil Sender" 

"Grounds Out" when you have low oil.  And to bear with me, the "Oil Sender" was taken apart at time or Rebuild, so that the "Plastic" of it would

not break apart in the engine while running and cause internal engine damage.  So, I just have the "Backing" or the "Oil Sender" screwed back in

the case, with wires cut.  And if I have this right, when the sender did or could read normal, a ground is complete?  Correct?

 

I pay close attention to oil levels and all, just one of my habits, but since the "Oil Sender" is made of plastic, it was taken apart and disposed of

in my engine, the Magnum 10 Horse Power.

 

But yes, I am looking for all the switches in the unit now.  My "Seat" switch was disabled before I purchased the Lawn Tractor.  I have not found a 

"PTO" Switch yet, or, the Clutch Engagement Switch, but did find the "Brake Actuator" switch through the Gear Shifter area below the seat.

 

And yes, looking for wires that can be even "Rubbed" bear or broken internally in there shielding and not getting continuity?

 

But yes, I have worked on many projects with metering things, and know checking for continuity takes time, for there is no line power.  It would just

blow the fuse anyway.  And yes, I can start the engine, and runs great, with the magneto powering the spark plug.  But at time of cranking it over

is when the 15 amp. fuse pops.  And yes, seen a few diagrams, and my fuse selection should be spot on, and unit came with it plus worked out

over all last season.

 

But yes, if anyone of ya'll know duration's of how long histories of the above components can last, just let me know, like the "Key Switch", ect.

 

Thank you for reading, yes, there cool units to speak on and they serve a purpose that is great, May as well keep them maintained and functional, 

plus there just cool, lol...   Wheel Horse, yep, to be on the up and up here, I purchased a small home with some land, and the wheel horse does wonders

and with the internet have have found a few parts I have needed to maintain the unit, so did an engine rebuild on it, to get another 20 years of life

out of the Unit.  Thank you and yes, I hope to share knowledge in the future, there are things I am learning and net locations of people for parts plus

venders.  Hope ya'll continue to have a great day, summer is coming..

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,037]

Added Kohler wiring to the Wheel Horse wiring.

[Easton Rich 1,064]

As you can see wiring in these is super simple. Take some sit down and go through it, check all connections. Anytime I have problems with wiring, I go ahead and replace it, it'll only take a few hours. 

[953 nut 64,485]

18 minutes ago, Railboy said:

I am looking for all the switches in the unit now.  My "Seat" switch was disabled before I purchased the Lawn Tractor.  I have not found a 

"PTO" Switch yet, or, the Clutch Engagement Switch, but did find the "Brake Actuator" switch through the Gear Shifter area below the seat.

The PTO switches are located inside the steering tower, removing the battery will make them more accessible.

The clutch switch is located on the right side of the tunnel between the operator's legs, belt guard needs to be removed to see it.

With the low oil switch being removed you should be able to connect the light blue and purple from the low oil relay and eliminate the rest of the wires to that relay.

 

[Railboy 1]

On the Light-Blue wire that you want me to connect, is that a positive wire or negative?  See, the wires from the "Oil Sender" were cut off, and

wiring prongs removed from the connector of the engine but "Stator" wires go into.

 

Just trying to see and like you said, there is not much to go wrong.  And I think from what I have read and seen the "Oil Sender" wires were (-) based.

Do not know if this could be "Blowing the Fuse", which to me does not seam likely?

 

But have a quick question on the Clutch Switch.  If I can start the engine and run it, the Clutch Switch should be fine and no reason to pull the belt 

guard off to check it?

 

But both the Clutch Switch and PTO Switch should be examined do to wiring rubbing and all? 

 

I really do not want to be opening a bag of worms up and creating more havoc, lol..  But up for investigations.

 

Thing is, that I can not see in my diagrams is the "Polarity" of the wires, thus leading to the Blow Fuse?  

 

There is no smell or smoke when the fuse pops, just a Blown Fuse that you can see in the Fuse itself.