Lost Pup 187 #1 Posted 23 hours ago During this years snow cleanup , my PTO on the loader 418C just self destructed. Put the bell into my lathe and cleaned out the debris a bit. The bearing shell finally released. Parts arrive from RockAuto. I did have a Koyo bearing to compair to the Timkin. Both appear to be quality items. Don’t forget to search the web for their rock auto 5% off coupon. Some parts cleanup and install the new Timken outer bearing and the SKF inner grease seal. Back in action. Comment Wecome 2 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lost Pup 187 #2 Posted 23 hours ago (edited) That bearing shell race was frozen solid in place. The lathe and a carbide tool and a few red hot shower curls and it released. You can see the curl nest in the pic above. I flushed the inner bearing with allot of brake clean and air nozzle to clean it out. The PTO pin itself pressed inward and was rubbing again the outer edge of the nose on the bell when it failed. Edited 23 hours ago by Lost Pup Fix 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,418 #3 Posted 23 hours ago Did you also dress the friction surface, as it is quite pitted? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lost Pup 187 #4 Posted 23 hours ago 1 minute ago, ri702bill said: Did you also dress the friction surface, as it is quite pitted? The pic shows after I dressed it. It was really bad before. Before I remove material on the lathe I want it see how it performs. I can skim it up on the lathe if needed. I picked up an extra PTO at the last show. Ready in the wings. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,651 #5 Posted 20 hours ago 2 hours ago, Lost Pup said: During this years snow cleanup , my PTO on the loader 418C just self destructed. Put the bell into my lathe and cleaned out the debris a bit. The bearing shell finally released. Parts arrive from RockAuto. I did have a Koyo bearing to compair to the Timkin. Both appear to be quality items. Don’t forget to search the web for their rock auto 5% off coupon. Some parts cleanup and install the new Timken outer bearing and the SKF inner grease seal. Back in action. It appears that the outer snap ring groove is no longer there, please tell me I am wrong. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
76c12091520h 4,126 #6 Posted 20 hours ago 20 minutes ago, lynnmor said: It appears that the outer snap ring groove is no longer there, please tell me I am wrong. I was thinking the same thing......seeing that alot these days. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 8,631 #7 Posted 18 hours ago I've got a cone clutch bell from my C-195 that the nose is worn past the C clip groove. Been thinking about how to fix it. Maybe machine the end flat, then drill & tap for a cap with the C clip groove? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lost Pup 187 #8 Posted 15 hours ago 5 hours ago, 76c12091520h said: I was thinking the same thing......seeing that alot these days. ‘The retaining snap ring groove is intact. I will snap a pic when I quick paint the parts. I did face the nose a small bit when I cleaned it up on the lathe. The center bearing slowly gave out over time until the PTO pin slowly bent inward in use as the bearing collapsed. This dumb operator on the loader ( me) just kept tightened the PTO arm up and continuing to work but the PTO pin pin bent so as to be cut off . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 45,630 #9 Posted 12 hours ago (edited) Could be the case of too good a quality bearing. I use a $4.00 PP204RR6 Napa bearing. When it fails it usually starts to smoke or stink or both. I keep a spare PTO bell on the shelf and swap it out and keep going. Then I fix the bad one as the spare. This keeps damage to a minimum. I think I have changed 2 bearings in 15 years. Edited 12 hours ago by squonk 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lost Pup 187 #10 Posted 9 hours ago 2 hours ago, squonk said: Could be the case of too good a quality bearing. I use a $4.00 PP204RR6 Napa bearing. When it fails it usually starts to smoke or stink or both. I keep a spare PTO bell on the shelf and swap it out and keep going. Then I fix the bad one as the spare. This keeps damage to a minimum. I think I have changed 2 bearings in 15 years. The loader FEL is always on so I gave the Timken a try. Have a rebuilt spare now as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,782 #11 Posted 8 hours ago @Lost Pup interesting related failures , agree with the outer , rock auto sealed bearing , the inner needle bearing needs a very high temp grease , typical black , dry , caking is telling you of needle bearing lube breakdown , lucas , x tra hd , green chassis grease flash point 550 deg , also polyurea rated , minimal ammount , to prevent clutch face contact , spot the OTHER PROBLEM REFERAL ? mule drive belt fraying ? those bearings are easily , side grease shield , removed , cleaned out , repacked with the same lucas 550 deg green chassis , every bearing in my pto driven anything , was changed over years ago , no noise , no belt scream , COLLECTIVE ROTATIONAL DRAG , is eating your set up alive , all my deck spindles , spin by hand on the mule belt area , no belt fraying . thats a gold mine , upgrade spot , detail every stage , also correct the sloppy pto, lever start , battery tray frame , 3 horses with this , change , never came back , looking right at you , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,651 #12 Posted 7 hours ago 13 hours ago, 76c12091520h said: I was thinking the same thing......seeing that alot these days. A few years ago I bought two used cones online, both were worn to the groove. The guy then sent me two good ones. Like 8ntruck, I might try to fix them as spares but there isn't much meat with the tapered ends. I often wondered how those things got wasted, now Lost Pup explained how he did it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,651 #13 Posted 6 hours ago 11 hours ago, 8ntruck said: I've got a cone clutch bell from my C-195 that the nose is worn past the C clip groove. Been thinking about how to fix it. Maybe machine the end flat, then drill & tap for a cap with the C clip groove? Maybe not using a retaining ring and just make the cap fit is the answer? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lost Pup 187 #14 Posted 6 hours ago 8 minutes ago, lynnmor said: Maybe not using a retaining ring and just make the cap fit is the answer? Maybe build up weld to replace the worn area and machine it up in the lathe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lost Pup 187 #15 Posted 6 hours ago 5 hours ago, squonk said: Could be the case of too good a quality bearing. I use a $4.00 PP204RR6 Napa bearing. When it fails it usually starts to smoke or stink or both. I keep a spare PTO bell on the shelf and swap it out and keep going. Then I fix the bad one as the spare. This keeps damage to a minimum. I think I have changed 2 bearings in 15 years. Not sure but it could have been the OEM bearing that got wasted. The grease on the inner bearing was just fine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,651 #16 Posted 6 hours ago 7 minutes ago, Lost Pup said: Maybe build up weld to replace the worn area and machine it up in the lathe. That cone is cast and not a good candidate for welding. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lost Pup 187 #17 Posted 5 hours ago 54 minutes ago, lynnmor said: That cone is cast and not a good candidate for welding. Tig braze maybe ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,651 #18 Posted 3 hours ago 1 hour ago, Lost Pup said: Tig braze maybe ? Tig not so good, some chance that brazing will work. What really would fix the problem is a trash can. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
76c12091520h 4,126 #19 Posted 3 hours ago Tried fixing some trashed PTO pulleys, ending up in the scrap...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites