702854boy 776 #1 Posted March 12 Is there supposed to be continuity between the a terminal and the housing? Is the supposed to be continuity between all of the commutator sections? Should there be continuity between all of the winding metal pieces? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 66,052 #2 Posted March 12 One of these manuals should have all the information you need. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=delco&quick=1&type=downloads_file 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 12,100 #3 Posted March 12 Or, this one... it is a large file. DELCO-REMY_SERVICE_BULLETIN.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 16,591 #4 Posted March 13 Learning the ins and outs of S/Gs, including how the electro/mechanical (i.e. NOT electronic) voltage regulators work, gives one a deep appreciation for clever engineering. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 776 #5 Posted March 14 I don't get it. We have done pretty much all of the tests, we have check for grounds and we have checked for shorts but for some reason the darn thing still won't charge. It also has new brushes and a clean commutator. It seems no matter what we do, it still won't charge, it'll start the tractor all day though until the battery is too weak. And when it's running I disconnected the regulator to see if that was the problem and I was still only seeing 12.5 volts at the battery which was probably the battery voltage and not a charge. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 19,983 #6 Posted March 14 Instead of checking the voltage at the battery with the regulator disconnected, check it at the regulator Leave the cap off the regulator, are the points closing after it starts? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 776 #7 Posted March 14 The one point I don't think was closing but that's the point on the right side of the tractor and with the regulator connected it shows the same volts as disconnected which makes me thing that the s/g isn't putting out instead of the regulator being out of whack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 16,591 #8 Posted March 14 (edited) 31 minutes ago, 702854boy said: The one point I don't think was closing but that's the point on the right side of the tractor and with the regulator connected it shows the same volts as disconnected which makes me thing that the s/g isn't putting out instead of the regulator being out of whack. Not disagreeing with you, but what is the history here? Regulators are rugged but not invincible. I’d start with the regulator diagnostics in the documents above. One thing I look for is the “left” relay must close to switch from “starter” mode to “generator” mode (this one is not adjustable even on adjustable regulators). If it doesn’t close, then no charging--could be no juice from generator OR could be a regulator fault. Edited March 14 by Handy Don 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 20,532 #9 Posted March 14 First simple question is it the Regulator or the Generator itself that is the issue. Engine running at at least half throttle what is voltage at the battery.... 13.5 or better is ok 12.6 no good step 2 Run a jumper wire from the "F" terminal on the generator to the "-" on the battery. If voltage goes up from 12.6 maybe to 14 then your issue is the regulator if it stays at 12.6 then probably one of the genny field coils is bad ...but more testing is appropriate. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 776 #10 Posted March 15 5 hours ago, pfrederi said: If voltage goes up from 12.6 maybe to 14 then your issue is the regulator if it stays at 12.6 then probably one of the genny field coils is bad ...but more testing is appropriate. When we did this test before the voltage didn't go up or down, it stayed the same, but all of the other tests we have done such as checking for grounds and open circuits has checked out all right. 6 hours ago, Handy Don said: Not disagreeing with you, but what is the history here? The tractor was parked in the early 2000's and we brought it back out in '22 and it was charging fine until last winter and then no matter what we do we can't figure it out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 20,532 #11 Posted March 15 Since you did brushes and such likely failure is the Charging Field coil. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 776 #12 Posted March 15 Does anyone still do winding rebuilds or do we have to try to figure out on our own or get a new one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 20,532 #13 Posted March 15 (edited) I think you pretty much have to buy the field coil no way I would try to rewind one of these.... Edited March 15 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 46,550 #14 Posted March 15 1 hour ago, 702854boy said: Does anyone still do winding rebuilds or do we have to try to figure out on our own or get a new one? Search Automotive/Farm Equipment Electrical repair in you area Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
