702854boy 528 #1 Posted Thursday at 07:55 PM Is there supposed to be continuity between the a terminal and the housing? Is the supposed to be continuity between all of the commutator sections? Should there be continuity between all of the winding metal pieces? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 64,332 #2 Posted Thursday at 10:58 PM One of these manuals should have all the information you need. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=delco&quick=1&type=downloads_file 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,406 #3 Posted Thursday at 11:44 PM Or, this one... it is a large file. DELCO-REMY_SERVICE_BULLETIN.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 16,017 #4 Posted yesterday at 01:00 AM Learning the ins and outs of S/Gs, including how the electro/mechanical (i.e. NOT electronic) voltage regulators work, gives one a deep appreciation for clever engineering. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 528 #5 Posted 8 hours ago I don't get it. We have done pretty much all of the tests, we have check for grounds and we have checked for shorts but for some reason the darn thing still won't charge. It also has new brushes and a clean commutator. It seems no matter what we do, it still won't charge, it'll start the tractor all day though until the battery is too weak. And when it's running I disconnected the regulator to see if that was the problem and I was still only seeing 12.5 volts at the battery which was probably the battery voltage and not a charge. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 19,381 #6 Posted 4 hours ago Instead of checking the voltage at the battery with the regulator disconnected, check it at the regulator Leave the cap off the regulator, are the points closing after it starts? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 528 #7 Posted 2 hours ago The one point I don't think was closing but that's the point on the right side of the tractor and with the regulator connected it shows the same volts as disconnected which makes me thing that the s/g isn't putting out instead of the regulator being out of whack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 16,017 #8 Posted 2 hours ago (edited) 31 minutes ago, 702854boy said: The one point I don't think was closing but that's the point on the right side of the tractor and with the regulator connected it shows the same volts as disconnected which makes me thing that the s/g isn't putting out instead of the regulator being out of whack. Not disagreeing with you, but what is the history here? Regulators are rugged but not invincible. I’d start with the regulator diagnostics in the documents above. One thing I look for is the “left” relay must close to switch from “starter” mode to “generator” mode (this one is not adjustable even on adjustable regulators). If it doesn’t close, then no charging--could be no juice from generator OR could be a regulator fault. Edited 2 hours ago by Handy Don 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,961 #9 Posted 1 hour ago First simple question is it the Regulator or the Generator itself that is the issue. Engine running at at least half throttle what is voltage at the battery.... 13.5 or better is ok 12.6 no good step 2 Run a jumper wire from the "F" terminal on the generator to the "-" on the battery. If voltage goes up from 12.6 maybe to 14 then your issue is the regulator if it stays at 12.6 then probably one of the genny field coils is bad ...but more testing is appropriate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites